BallZach

iTrader: (25)

I didn't really find much about maintenance on here as far as pulling down your engine and checking bearings, looking at clutch shoes for wear, going over your car as a whole. I'm new to the nitro side of this hobby and I've found that there is a lot more maintenance that has to be put into a nitro car vs. an electric car. I was curious as to what you more experienced nitro racers do to your car, say, before a big race, after a big race, before your practice runs, during the week etc. Clutch bearings and clutch shoe disassembling and inspection, after run oil in your engines..

I take this hobby pretty seriously and I'm sure we all spend quite a bit of money to race and it's a bummer when something falls off during a main event that could've been prevented with some good maintenance. I race at the pro level at my local events and it's come apparent to me that you need your stuff in very tip top shape to even be competitive at all. Post your tips and your maintenance routines as needed. All will be gladly appreciated.

I will update my routine as time allows.

Sinn1612

This is my routine, and so it may not work for others, however I have had success with it.

From club-day to club-day:
Take out engine, pipe, tank (as one unit), take out radio tray, remove tyres (if applicable), and remove shocks.
Spray with simple green and use a medium-bristled brush where needed to get the stubborn stuff off. Blow it off with a compressor. Repeat the cleaning process as much as necessary. Note: Don't be too picky, but avoid getting excess simple green around bearings as it can cause them to fail prematurely due to rust/lack of lubrication.
Clean radio tray and engine/pipe/tank separately, being mindful to get absolutely no simple green/water on the air filter or electronics.
Inspect clutch, and replace components as needed.
I generally only refresh my diff fluids after every 4-5 club meets, before a large event, or as I make a setup change - whichever comes first.
Inspect CVDs for wear (I go more off of feel to determine how worn they are; by how much play there is in the joint), and clean/re-grease if necessary.
Inspect camber/toe links and check freedom of movement.
Take the springs off the shocks, clean them with a brush and simple green (if necessary) and inspect them to determine if they need new lower seals, or need bleeding.
Replace air filter if necessary - I don't take notice of how much time the filter has been installed.


Before a large event (nationals, state titles, etc)
Same as between club days, but I also change bearings if necessary (remove diffs and driveshafts, and steering assembly, and check if any bearings are crunchy), refresh diff oils (and replace seals if needed), reset/check all my endpoints (steering and throttle), check the gap between the brake pads and reset as necessary, replace a-arms if they're warped/worn/sloppy. Check the diff shimming, and make sure everything that needs grease on the car is greased.


Between heats at a large event
Visually inspect the car for any damaged components and replace as necessary, feel the drivetrain to ensure it is free.
Make any setup changes necessary, then check: droop, ride height, camber, ride height (again) with the car ready to go.

After a large event
Same as between club-days.

BallZach

iTrader: (25)

Awesome. Thanks for your input! I have a similar routine to yours except I change my diff fluid every 2 weekends as I've been told that the silicone oil breaks down pretty quickly thus making the fluid lose it's viscosity and it actually can change how your car handles. How do you inspect your CVD's? I usually put some black grease on them every time I wash my car with simple green. Also, after I use simple green I spray WD-40 silicone based cleaner on my car to make it shine and lubricate all of the small components of the car as well.

Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

I have a very similar regiment like Sinn1612's, however, I change all the oils after each race weekend. I have never raced at a BIG event so I just stick to previously mentioned. If I'm bashing, I do it as needed after each day is over, if needed or every few weeks, depending on how hard we ran/bash.

Sinn1612

I think it depends on the brand of silicone oil you use. I use the TLR oil in my diffs and my shocks, and I've found that the diff oil doesn't drastically change viscosity in that relatively short timeframe. I imagine it certainly would if I didn't change it after a few months.
To check the CVDs I tend to just hold the hex with a wheel wrench, and see if I can feel any significant backlash in the joint by rocking the driveshaft back and forth (still holding the hex still). If I can, then I pull it apart and check the backlash further. If I feel like it's too much, I replace the worn component(s).

joseat415

Hello, new to the forum and Nitro cars. I just bought a Kyosho Scorpion B XXL and I replaced the engine with a O.S. Speed Spec 3. When I start the car on my starter box the rear wheels are spinning really fast. I tried puthing it on the ground and the car wants to take off. The only way the car is at idle is when I squeeze the brake and hold it. Can anyone please help me troubleshoot this issue.

banana rt

recheck ur subtrim on ur radio transmitter, recheck your linkage/servo aligning (rod that comes from ur servo to ur engine carb), if this doesnt help check ur engine clutch. refer to ur manual. have fun

BallZach

iTrader: (25)

Yup, watch your carb slide when you hit the brake. If it's getting pushed back into the carb your trims are off. Adjust your radio more towards the brake side and watch the slide go back to fully CLOSED. You can do this when the engine isn't running. Your servo is probably just pulling the slide open a bit. Make certain your slide is getting back to the fully closed position at idle. Also, some guys run a rubber band on the arm that pulls the slide open, to act like a return spring in a way. Hope you figure it out!