For droop I run 114 front / 128 rear, kit shocks with the shock ends unscrewed 2 turns, inside holes on arms, middle on shock tower
as far as ride height I run driveshafts level

too much front droop takes away too much steering

try the 12* deg aluminum caster blocks, A215 Sv steering plate and +2 deg rear hex’s

also a few of us are grinding the steering knuckles for a bit more steering throw to to help with tight low speed corners

I don’t have a picture

the aluminum caster blocks/ Sv steering plate are the biggest improvements , I have plenty of steering

Lutz winning SIC race with the 215T is a big deal. First...he won. Second...he beat Tebo. Third...Tebo had a Tekno truggy which is a good whip. So this says a lot about our driver and our truck. I’m racing at January Jam this weekend at Flowood RC. Lutz will be there and I look forward to picking his brain on the truck.

Hey there, the front clip will bolt on as is. I’d swap the A and B plates to the 215t for convenience but original should go on to the chassis. When when swapping to the new hinge plates you’ll need the new inserts and the longer black coated hinge pins. The rear clip will need the newer rear gearbox with the a215t C and D plates as the C plate locks onto the chassis differently and the D plate accommodates for the kick up in the tail of it. The center diff will need the a215t outdrives with the double bearing setup then your center shafts should work. If you swap arms ever, you’ll need to go to the a215t outdrives and second bearing to accommodate the added length. Again the shaft remains usable still. Towers aren’t that different. The steering crank system would be a nice upgrade.

Hope this helps. Let me know if you need part numbers.