Ryu Goh

hi, does anyone has the full updated part list for MBX5R?

Turbo Joe

iTrader: (41)

Are you kidding or just dumb? Look back like 5 posts.

TonysScrews

iTrader: (13)

Ryu,

I posted the differences above a few posts. But if yuo want the entire list:

MBX5R Parts

RYAN BARNES

Alright after getting to race the new Mugen MBX5R buggy twice over the weekend, I must say I'm really happy with what I'm seeing. I took a close 2nd at Deano's RC Raceway saturday, and a really close 2nd sunday at the Bluegrass Hobbies-American Cancer Association benefit race. I think the buggy will really show it's strengths when I get it on a rougher track, the suspension is awesome, and it jumps nearly perfect everytime! I need more time with the setup, to work on cornering, it enters really well and exits great, but it just has this mid-corner push that I haven't been able to get out just yet. I built it using the setup sheet that Mugen supplied and it was "ok", then I put my setup on it from my other MBX5, and that was "alot" better, but right now I'm searching for that lil something extra that my other buggy has thru the tight sections. I'll find it, trust me!! The buggy has all the capability in the world.

kyracer

I got my Prospec at the start of the season. It was great but over the season it feels like the buggy suspension is going to hell. The buggy does not want to jump very well and it seems to not take the bumps as good. I still have the stock shock. Does anyone think the stock shocks is loosing compression?

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

The shock bodies are probably worn out because they are not hardcoated. Mine did after about a season. If you need a set of new ones I have all 4 new in package that I am looking to sell. I am running another buggy now and have no need for these. PM me if you want them.

jbrow1

iTrader: (28)

From the sounds of it, you haven't changed the oil or anything yet. Is that correct? They probably don't have any oil left in them if it's been "over the season." Without any oil or really old bad oil the whole way the shock works will be different than a fresh set, and will get worse each time you run it. The spring is only one part of how the shock works, you need to change your oil regularly to have a good working suspension. Not to mention checking for binding in the a-arm movement when the shocks are off.

RYAN BARNES

Davidka is right, your shock bodies are worn out, that happened alot with the old kit. You will look and see a dark color in grooves on the inside of the bodies when you take them apart, thats the aluminum of the bodies showing thru the coating that has worn off. The new MBX5R bodies have a hardened, slicker coating on them. But for now you can go up 100pts on your shock oils, and that will help with the excess gaps around your pistons. Example=if your running 400 front and 350 rear, go to 500 front and 450 rear.

kyracer

jbrow1,

I'm no rookie. I change the shock oil often. I also rebuild the shocks. Thanks for the help anyway.

Barnes,
I went up about #50 and it helped some. That was what my next move was going to be. I wanted to know if I was missing something.

Davidka,
Thanks for the offer on the shocks. I will keep your shock bodies in mind but I am almost like you. Wanting to try the Losi. I think for now I will go up in shock oil and see if I can hold out until the first of 2007 and go with eather the Mugen R, Losi, AE, or (lord forgive me) the Kyosho. inside Coyote joke.

RYAN BARNES

I wasn't real happy with the suggested set-up sheet that came with the MBX5R, so I went with my setup, it seems to handle and corner better,(for me). A couple guys had PM'd for my setup so, some of you may want to give it a try, you may like it, or not. Just an offer. I'm gonna test a few other settings today after work, but this is the setup I ran over the weekend.


RYAN BARNES setup –MBX5R
FRONT END
Shock oil- 400wt
Pistons- 1.5
Springs- Grey
Shock position- 4th hole in on tower, outside on arm
Ride height- Arms level (14mm of black clips)
Ackerman- middle hole (King Headz –offset)
Track width- 277mm
Front lower arm- 2mm spacer in front
Camber- -3degrees
Toe out- -0.5 degrees
Castor- 1mm spacer in front of upper arm
Upper arm hinge pin- lower insert on tower, lower block in rear( plus 1.5mm spacer)
Diff- 5000wt
Front swaybar- 2.2mm
CENTER
Diff- 5000wt
Gearing- 13/46
Clutch- aluminum, 1.0 springs
Brakes- RE high temp craddocks, doubled plates(no pads)
REAR END
Shock oil- 350wt
Pistons- 1.5
Springs- Blue
Shock position- middle on tower, outside on arm
Ride height- Arms level (17mm of black clips)
Rear hubs- 1mm spacer in front, lower hinge hole
Camber- -3 degrees
Toe block- -2.75
Antisquat- middle insert (2 degrees)
Diff- 2000wt
Rear swaybar- 2.8mm

NOTE- buggy has A LOT of down travel(droop), and you may notice some binding in the CVD’s at FULL droop, I prefer not to use droop screws that dig into the chassis and get out of adjustment. I prefer to use two small black o-rings (approx 3mm total) internally in the shocks(put on shaft before inserted into the body) to set droop.

jbrow1

iTrader: (28)

Sorry, wasn't sure by the way your post was worded. I was going to delete mine after reading the other two posts but figured I'd leave it up as you just never know.

TeamRoy

I wouldn't worry about it, his posting is better then his driving if that tells you anything.

Homer Allman

MBX5t is the best bang for the buck

RYAN BARNES

Sooo true Jason!!! When you gonna get back to the track JW?? I've offered you a complete Prospec, all you gotta do is show up and WHEEL!!!

RYAN BARNES

Ok, for those searching for setup options on the new MBX5R (since Hughes won't release his), I had posted the one(above) I ran over the weekend, and had really good success with. But tonight a fellow racer and I went to our local track and did some testing, making adjustments, then taking turns test driving the R and giving each other feedback. I think we were able to come up with a real good setup. Below are the list of changes made to the above setup, and this is the setup I will run this coming weekend at the RC Pro Series KY State Championships.

FRONT

Toe out- NOW- set at 1 degree OUT per side
Upper arm spacers-NOW- set at CENTER
Upper arm hinge- NOW- bushing in tower is CENTERED
Shock Pos- NOW- MIDDLE on tower, outside on arm
(Also listed in my setup above I had the King Headz ackerman listed, it was actually on my sons MBX5(my old kit) so I took it off and put it on the new R today, and it made a HUGE difference in the corners) I checked and it's actually 3mm offset!! A great addition- eliminates bumpsteer

CENTER
Diff- I NOW have 7000wt in the center diff, it really helped the handling and corner exiting!! My diff combo is 5-7-2, which is real common for Mugen drivers.

REAR

The only change I made in the rear was the anti squat bushing that the rear arm hinge pin goes thru, I went from center to Now-LOWER position

Good luck to all!! MUGEN SEIKI !!!