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Old 11-04-2016, 11:31 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno NB48.3 Thread
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Last edit by: MattDub
What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 – Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 – Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 – Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 – Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T – Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T – Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 – Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 17 Step M-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 14 Step K-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all of our vehicles can be found here.

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Old 09-09-2016, 08:20 PM
  #706  
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Both my truck and buggy runs off same starter box. Just adjust the markers at the outer edges of side guards. This way the layoff is exactly the same
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Old 09-13-2016, 11:26 PM
  #707  
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Originally Posted by ezlight
The 700/750 was for the 3x2.1's... But yes, with any of teh pistions, you want a higher weight oil in the rear.
so a buddy a the track mentioned he ran heavier oil in the front and I was like no no no you always run heavier in the back and then he said no no, heavier in the front....so we ended up both be unsure of ourselves. I came home and looked up recent sheets for his car and a few others of the popular brands and sure enough they all are running heavier shock oil in the front except Tekno, the set up sheets I looked at for the Teknos are running heavier in the rear and seems to be the only cars doing so, I look at Kyosho, Mugen, AE and HB....I'm curious about this as I'm sure most of you guys have run other cars, I haven't.

Thanks
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Old 09-13-2016, 11:57 PM
  #708  
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shock rebound

have a look, any advice is appreciated
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Old 09-14-2016, 04:30 AM
  #709  
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Originally Posted by nodrog
so a buddy a the track mentioned he ran heavier oil in the front and I was like no no no you always run heavier in the back and then he said no no, heavier in the front....so we ended up both be unsure of ourselves. I came home and looked up recent sheets for his car and a few others of the popular brands and sure enough they all are running heavier shock oil in the front except Tekno, the set up sheets I looked at for the Teknos are running heavier in the rear and seems to be the only cars doing so, I look at Kyosho, Mugen, AE and HB....I'm curious about this as I'm sure most of you guys have run other cars, I haven't.

Thanks
that's weird. I have ALWAYS run heavier front and the local tekno guys run heavier fronts as well.... strange
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Old 09-14-2016, 05:08 AM
  #710  
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Originally Posted by nodrog
so a buddy a the track mentioned he ran heavier oil in the front and I was like no no no you always run heavier in the back and then he said no no, heavier in the front....so we ended up both be unsure of ourselves. I came home and looked up recent sheets for his car and a few others of the popular brands and sure enough they all are running heavier shock oil in the front except Tekno, the set up sheets I looked at for the Teknos are running heavier in the rear and seems to be the only cars doing so, I look at Kyosho, Mugen, AE and HB....I'm curious about this as I'm sure most of you guys have run other cars, I haven't.

Thanks

I have always felt my car was more balanced with lighter oil in front, I have tried lighter in the rear but it felt like the rear was too bouncy, at least for my liking. Since the geometry (especially the front end) is drastically different than anything else in the market comparing setups isn’t going to work.

I suggest you try both combinations and stick with what works best for you.
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Old 09-14-2016, 05:18 AM
  #711  
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Originally Posted by nodrog
so a buddy a the track mentioned he ran heavier oil in the front and I was like no no no you always run heavier in the back and then he said no no, heavier in the front....so we ended up both be unsure of ourselves. I came home and looked up recent sheets for his car and a few others of the popular brands and sure enough they all are running heavier shock oil in the front except Tekno, the set up sheets I looked at for the Teknos are running heavier in the rear and seems to be the only cars doing so, I look at Kyosho, Mugen, AE and HB....I'm curious about this as I'm sure most of you guys have run other cars, I haven't.

Thanks
In every other buggy I've owned I have run heavier in the front, as that's what I was told to run and what the set up sheets said. Tekno is the first I have run it in reverse lol.
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Old 09-14-2016, 09:17 AM
  #712  
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the .3 vehicles are also the ones with the most travel, and we're running the truggy shock package on our buggies. Much more volume. I always try to run 25-50cst more in the rear.

Especially since tracks around here like to put a good size jump with no downside so we're flat landing.
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Old 09-15-2016, 07:21 AM
  #713  
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Hey guys, for our buggys you will typically want the front to be 100 to 150 cst lighter than the rear. This has to do with our geometry. Reciently we have been experimenting with less pack in the front (fewer but larger holes in the piston) and it has allowed us to run a heavier oil in the front. For example we have been using 3x2.1 Pistons in front with 650 oil and 4x1.8 Pistons in the rear with 450. Depending upon ambient temp you might need to go with heavier oil if it is hotter than 85f.
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Old 09-15-2016, 11:45 AM
  #714  
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Originally Posted by MattDub
Hey guys, for our buggys you will typically want the front to be 100 to 150 cst lighter than the rear. This has to do with our geometry. Reciently we have been experimenting with less pack in the front (fewer but larger holes in the piston) and it has allowed us to run a heavier oil in the front. For example we have been using 3x2.1 Pistons in front with 650 oil and 4x1.8 Pistons in the rear with 450. Depending upon ambient temp you might need to go with heavier oil if it is hotter than 85f.
Interesting, Thanks Matt. I've been running the 3x2.1's on all 4 corners, with 700\750 oils...May just setup a second set of rear shocks next race day, and see how the 4x1.8's with 450cst feel in the rear.

One of those, "Gee, Why didn't I think of"... moments.


May also have to do a set of fronts with 4x1.8's with 350... and try the 350\450 oils...I've always ran roughly 50 CST different front to rear, never 100....

A testing we will go....
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Old 09-17-2016, 09:24 PM
  #715  
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My friend just test the car with the shock cups from the electric and this allow the suspension to work with zero rebound make it mote consistan to a bumpy track and his second change he put the rear differential case with the dogbone outdrive in the center he says the car puts more power in the front end make it more easily to drive
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Old 09-19-2016, 12:11 PM
  #716  
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I know its covered a lot by seeing specific servos listed, but I was wondering what speed/torque should I be looking for? 300+ / .11+?
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Old 09-19-2016, 12:16 PM
  #717  
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Originally Posted by deceit
I know its covered a lot by seeing specific servos listed, but I was wondering what speed/torque should I be looking for? 300+ / .11+?
I recommend over 300oz, and .10 or better.... All mine are minimum 400oz, and .07 second response. I run the protek 170s in truggy, and the highest dt2100 in both buggies and SCT. I also have the highest dt1100 for throttle on nitro buggy, but probably would have grabbed the dt750 instead to save a few bucks.

I get all my highest brand servo's from http://fiercercsolutions.com/Highest-RC_c181.htm
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Old 09-19-2016, 12:28 PM
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thanks, ez.

ps: im slowly catching up to your 4some! up to the terrible three now.
got my sct in may, eb in august, and now my nb today!!
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Old 09-19-2016, 12:34 PM
  #719  
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Originally Posted by deceit
thanks, ez.

ps: im slowly catching up to your 4some! up to the terrible three now.
got my sct in may, eb in august, and now my nb today!!
Very nice. It's an addiction..My next will probably be another sct to play with converting to 2wd for a mod on oval...We'll see.
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Old 09-20-2016, 10:05 AM
  #720  
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So I just bought my NB yesterday, am hitting the track for the first time on Thursday. Any main differences for setup from the EB that I should look for? When setting up my electronics last night I noticed the steering linkage is longer, and that the chassis braces are different. But overall, should my shock, pills, etc be the same?

I bought the NB used, the rest were new.. so I'm not sure what is in the diffs/shocks atm...

Can't wait to try her out!
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