Hot Bodies D815 Tessmann Worlds Edition
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#1096
Looking for a e conversion kit for the d815 any suggestions?
#1097
#1098
Thanks!
#1099
We've had a few guys buy them and convert them over using the RC Monster kit. The 8ight 2.0 battery tray, Mugen MBX7 ECO, and Kyosho MP9e trays all work.
#1100
Tech Apprentice
hinge pin
is there a fix to stop the pins in the lower arm which hold the shock from coming out as i had my d815 out for the first time at the track and i know the grubs in the bottom of the arm were tight but i still managed to loose the grub and the pin holding the shock in, i got another pin and noticed it kept working its way out also.
#1101
is there a fix to stop the pins in the lower arm which hold the shock from coming out as i had my d815 out for the first time at the track and i know the grubs in the bottom of the arm were tight but i still managed to loose the grub and the pin holding the shock in, i got another pin and noticed it kept working its way out also.
If its not making contact, then I'd drill and tap a larger set screw in it. Or, if needed, go to a longer screw.
#1102
Tech Addict
iTrader: (39)
is there a fix to stop the pins in the lower arm which hold the shock from coming out as i had my d815 out for the first time at the track and i know the grubs in the bottom of the arm were tight but i still managed to loose the grub and the pin holding the shock in, i got another pin and noticed it kept working its way out also.
#1103
Tech Addict
iTrader: (39)
I would pull the arm off, pull the insert out, and look at the contact point on my bench. I would check to see how far the set screw needs to go to have contact with the hinge pin.
If its not making contact, then I'd drill and tap a larger set screw in it. Or, if needed, go to a longer screw.
If its not making contact, then I'd drill and tap a larger set screw in it. Or, if needed, go to a longer screw.
#1104
Tech Apprentice
the new pin i added was a silver one i got from a mate at the track i think it was from the d12, it still worked its way out, i tried it with a longer fixing grub but still it would be half way out after a heat..
i have heard about replacing the pin with a screw, i am going to dremel the ridge on the retaining pin deeper and leave it with straight edges and see if that works along with a longer fixing grub
i have heard about replacing the pin with a screw, i am going to dremel the ridge on the retaining pin deeper and leave it with straight edges and see if that works along with a longer fixing grub
Last edited by jboy77; 09-14-2015 at 10:23 AM.
#1105
is there a fix to stop the pins in the lower arm which hold the shock from coming out as i had my d815 out for the first time at the track and i know the grubs in the bottom of the arm were tight but i still managed to loose the grub and the pin holding the shock in, i got another pin and noticed it kept working its way out also.
#1106
Center diff question
Hey all
So I have a kinda remedial question on my D815.
I had 3k in my center diff and it seemed like my rear wheels were just spinning a lot. So i switched to 7k and now it seems better. Seems to be 'more 4 wheel drive' now if that makes sense. My diffs are now 5, 7, 2 (fcr). I have looked at Tessmans setups and in loose conditions (which i mainly race) he uses light center fluid. Can someone explain why this works? Because like I said...the rear tires seemed to balloon very easily with 3k.
Am i just imagining things....because for loose conditions you should really go lighter in the center? Doesnt thicker center fluid do something to steering response too?
Any productive help would really be apprechiated. Thanks!
So I have a kinda remedial question on my D815.
I had 3k in my center diff and it seemed like my rear wheels were just spinning a lot. So i switched to 7k and now it seems better. Seems to be 'more 4 wheel drive' now if that makes sense. My diffs are now 5, 7, 2 (fcr). I have looked at Tessmans setups and in loose conditions (which i mainly race) he uses light center fluid. Can someone explain why this works? Because like I said...the rear tires seemed to balloon very easily with 3k.
Am i just imagining things....because for loose conditions you should really go lighter in the center? Doesnt thicker center fluid do something to steering response too?
Any productive help would really be apprechiated. Thanks!
#1107
Hey all
So I have a kinda remedial question on my D815.
I had 3k in my center diff and it seemed like my rear wheels were just spinning a lot. So i switched to 7k and now it seems better. Seems to be 'more 4 wheel drive' now if that makes sense. My diffs are now 5, 7, 2 (fcr). I have looked at Tessmans setups and in loose conditions (which i mainly race) he uses light center fluid. Can someone explain why this works? Because like I said...the rear tires seemed to balloon very easily with 3k.
Am i just imagining things....because for loose conditions you should really go lighter in the center? Doesnt thicker center fluid do something to steering response too?
Any productive help would really be apprechiated. Thanks!
So I have a kinda remedial question on my D815.
I had 3k in my center diff and it seemed like my rear wheels were just spinning a lot. So i switched to 7k and now it seems better. Seems to be 'more 4 wheel drive' now if that makes sense. My diffs are now 5, 7, 2 (fcr). I have looked at Tessmans setups and in loose conditions (which i mainly race) he uses light center fluid. Can someone explain why this works? Because like I said...the rear tires seemed to balloon very easily with 3k.
Am i just imagining things....because for loose conditions you should really go lighter in the center? Doesnt thicker center fluid do something to steering response too?
Any productive help would really be apprechiated. Thanks!
Now when you put in lighter diff oil, the center diff starts to act as traction control, allowing power to go to either the front set of wheels or rear set of wheels that has less traction. This can be greatly beneficial on very bumpy or rutted out tracks when you want smoother acceleration of the entire car through the bumps. This is only possible with a sufficient amount of center diff action which dissipates some of the power to the wheels when accelerating through a bumpy section.
So you're right, the heavier center diff oil would be more all-wheel drive like, but I'm not sure what you mean by spinning the rear wheels a lot with the lighter diff oil.
#1108
Got my D815 together and grabbed Tanner Stees' setup for fear farm to try. Also switching motors from a keep-off to a samurai. Looking forward to comparing this car to my d812.
#1109
Usually a light center diff will cause the front tires to diff out. Ex: you punch it. Car transfers weight to the rear. Center diff diffs out sending power to the end with the least resistance- the front. The front tires balloon.
As far as your rear tires ballooning, would that be the inner rear tire on a turn maybe?
7k in the center seems kind of thick, especially on a loose track... and even more especially with a lighter front diff
@Socket- I'm curious to see how you like it.
@SEF any thoughts on why a universal might be more durable than a cvd? They both have little pins and do basically the same job.
As far as your rear tires ballooning, would that be the inner rear tire on a turn maybe?
7k in the center seems kind of thick, especially on a loose track... and even more especially with a lighter front diff
@Socket- I'm curious to see how you like it.
@SEF any thoughts on why a universal might be more durable than a cvd? They both have little pins and do basically the same job.
#1110
Ill be out with Socket this weekend, he just scored me a smoking deal on a very lightly used d815. Making the switch from the MP9 and super excited to compare the two. Hopefully I end up with a car that drives well like my mp9 but one that I don't have to be scared of driving because of broken front arms