Adim_X

iTrader: (16)

The car is pretty good out of the box. The main improvement I have used is the under drive rear gears, 12T bevel/42T Diff gear. E2205 / E2203 Under-drive gears. For rough / low grip conditions.

The HT diffs, I did not really notice any improvements. I initially put them on E Buggy and have since started racing Nitro car again. I am not buying them for nitro car. I just did not notice near enough improvement for 150 investment. I think the main benefit to me, would be increased service intervals. Others here may feel differently.

Depending on track conditions, a brass weight kit would be good for rear end. Also, most team setups seem to be using CVDS, the logic being they provide a bit more traction in turns due to binding up a bit (Please feel free to correct) CVDs are available around 30 bucks per set, from Dollar Hobbyz. They are from MGT7.

Iggy 102

iTrader: (4)

Does anyone have part number of cvds and whatever else is needed to run cvds?

Adim_X

iTrader: (16)

Here is the cheapest place I can find them as a kit.

https://www.dollarhobbyz.com/product...iversals-axles

Manufacturer Part Number(s): MUGE2017 MUGE0222 MUGE0221 MUGC0264 MUGE0238

You need at least 4 larger inner bearings: 15x21x4
15x21 Bearing 15x21x4 Revolution Bearing 6702-RSZ

Mugen Seiki Non-Trailing Front Hub Carrier Set: MUGE2105-B

tom1974

Rear hub???
Standard??

samuelsonmark71

iTrader: (22)

Take the gears out of your Ebuggy and go back to stock. Put the HT gears in the nitro.

Adim_X

iTrader: (16)

I use the optional aluminum hubs, however the
stock mbx7r plastic ones should accept either bearing size.

Adam Drake

I use the plastic rear hubs for buggy and the aluminum rear hubs for truck.

BigP

- Alu Servohorn for your steering servo
- Shock piston: 8x1.2 for the front and 8x1.3 (Kit) for the rear
- Shock piston: 5x1.35mm and a drillbit of 1.45mm that you get 5x1.45mm
- Different shock springs, front: 9.0 and 9.25 (Kit), Rear 10.50 and 10.75 (Kit)
- 20g - 40g for the rear weight, you can do that by yourself
- HB wingmount +10mm, cheap, saves weight and looks cool
- a few Titanium screws of the Radio tray

Start with this above and do a few clubraces, then you will see if you really need more.

The HT Diffs and CVD's are not a cheap update and not a must, and don't have it and don't miss it. Neither I have the Alu Servosaver horn, not expensive but I never had an issue with the plastic one (and I run the car since the release of the MBX-6 1st version!)

You don't need more!

BigP

Robert Battle is European Champion 2017


More pictures:
Under the Euro Champion's Hood: Robert Batlle - NeoBuggy.net

Setup:
http://www.mugenseiki.com/download/s...a_euro2017.pdf

mlax

iTrader: (15)

Thinking about getting a Nitro in addition to my eBuggy but have very little idea about Nitro.

Can someone recommend me a good combo of engine/pipe and servos? Not trying to win IFMAR but should be something decent that lasts.

thanks!

thommi

The car is real good out of the box. Don't focus on upgrades at this moment, focus on getting used to the car. I don't even have the alu servo saver on mine, never had an issue with it... HT diffs, I was looking into it, but so far, I haven't seen any of the guys who got them getting faster.

ThelanderJ

iTrader: (13)

Are there any other oil seals that fit the Mugen shocks?

tom1974

Losi.associated.ultimate

rubezzz

For me the must have upgrades are the Flashpoint 5 hole brass pistons, 9.0 front springs 10.5 rear springs, aluminum servo saver and some chassis weights. Like others have said, it's pretty good out of the box!

Only thing I found beneficial about the HT diffs was a more consistent feel over long runs, if this is something your looking for then I'd say they are a worthy investment.

rubezzz

Anyone else having problems with random spring breakages on their 4 shoe clutch?