Drip

iTrader: (6)

Dustin McCutcheon

lberry

iTrader: (1)

Well i set my droop to 104mm in the front and 119mm in the rear also change rear spring to 10.75 ,got more steering on corner entry which is what i wanted ,still need a little more but the rear end is a little too free on power now though. What do you guys think i can try to get little more off power steering and tighten the rear up a touch on power .

lberry

iTrader: (1)

I know im getting a little greedy with my setup and asking the best of both worlds but any ideas would be great thanks guys and have a good thanksgiving

juninho_foz

testing......

hairymuffin

iTrader: (105)

What's in the rear diff? Should be around 4/5k...play with rear camber link length,try a longer link.. My son runs the rear pill insert with the dot in the left lower corner(more toe).. Try them one at a time to see what works

matterooth

I'm building a mbx7r, it's my first nitro ever. I have the Eco already.
Could someone tell me what the upside is with the one-piece motormount?

curacing2

Hey lberry, yep saw the video, looks like quite a low grip track, I think if you can dial out a bit of the push without getting too much oversteer you should be sorted, must be good grip with a bit of water on it?..yeah it is offroad and you'll be lucky to find the perfect setup for various conditions throughout the day, dont be afraid to mixup F&R tire combos, I run AKA and have mixed impact with Ibeam and crossbraces, even run medium fronts with softs on the rear.
Looks like a nice track guys.

Craig

rider313

iTrader: (94)

If you use a quick change one peice mount you can pull the engine out as many times as you want and never have to reset mesh.

Here is the one I recommend

http://www.forddesigns.net/engine-mo...e-engine-mount

bash bros

iTrader: (2)

A little less chassis flex under the engine, and it can help protect the engine case on any nasty pancake landings.

I prefer the m2c mount over the Mugen one piece though. It's pretty rigid, but its also a quick change. The lower half mounts to the chassis and the two rails stay on the engine, so if you unbolt it you can throw it right back on without having to set the mesh... which is a pita with the tank in the way.

I also bought an extra set of the top rail mounts to put on my backup engine in case I need to put it on in a hurry.


edit--- The Ford Designs mount looks really nice too. Probably can't go wrong with either that one or the m2c.

matterooth

Thanks guys!

TIM.L.BARNETT

HI GUYS I'VE HAVE A MBX7R FOR A FEW MONTHS NOW AND I'M STILL BREAKIN IN THE ENGINE I HAVE A BULLITT B220 ENGINE AND BULLITT 2090 PIPE SET ARE THIS A GOOD COMBINATION. I'VE HEARD THE BULLITT IS A GOOD AND POWERFUL ENGINE . IS THIS TRUE.

THANKS

Chris Reilly

If they are OS based as I think they are. You are good to go.

TIM.L.BARNETT

hi guys heres pics of my new mugen mbx7r with a bullitt b220 engine and bullitt 2089 pipe set plus proline phantom body and schumacher mini pins

bash bros

iTrader: (2)

Nice...

Although it looks like you might need to trim the splash guard on the fuel tank a little bit. Otherwise after a while it can tear the air filter boot and you'll start sucking dirt into the engine.

TIM.L.BARNETT

hi folks i don't now if anybody can help me it's about my throttle servo / linkage what the problem is when the radio is turned on i can open the throttle all the way but when the radio is off and you turn the servo by hand it only opens about half. is this supposed to happen or have i got my linkage setup wrong.