party_wagon

iTrader: (29)

How do the outdrives and the diffs hold up? They are the same as in the hyper 7 right?

Rocket42

the diffs are the same as the hyper 7, i haven't had the car long enough to give an idea about outdrive and universal wear.

Tabushi

iTrader: (1)

Same ?, mmhhh i dont know, at the track we were comparing a Hyper 7 and 8 and the diffs on the 8 are way smaller ...

associatedguy

iTrader: (8)

A guy I know has an H8 and he siad the hyper 7 diffs will work.

party_wagon

iTrader: (29)

well, how durable are they? How much run time can you typicaly put on a set of diffs and outdrives and how periodicly do these need to be refilled with oil?

tex1

iTrader: (4)

Dibs - Nice paint! Good to hear you went H8. I just finished a very good night of racing. See you soon.

Parts are good. My car has had some Kyosho stuff on it and the slop for the amount of drive time is the same. So the stock stuff is just as good. The inserts are nice.

The metal drive line is awesome! Hardly any wear. The drive cups are incredible. 3 days of practice and three days of hard racing has put the car in the top without worry. No color gone yet! Pins are starting to get flat spots as expected. Shim the output orings on the diffs.

Awesome car.
TEX

Tabushi

iTrader: (1)

Hi,


Im about 1 week from order my buggy ... (first one, i have 5 years onroad background and coupleof months on MT class but im jumping now to Buggy) and im having a hard time trying to decide between the Hyper 8, X1CR from Jammin, Matrix and TTR S3 ... can you help me a little ?

And on the other hand, its true that with the Hyper 8 you dont need a setup board due to the fact that it works with inserts for setting up the chassis, suspension, etc ?

thanks,

tex1

iTrader: (4)

There is no need if you understand setup. Make your own guide for the shims becasue they are no marked very well.

The H8 is the best car I have driven. Never had a Matrix or ThuderTiger.
The H8 is $420. Other buggies are considerably more.
It is stable, wears very well and is easy to drive. I'm hard pressed to say another car will give you so much for so little.

TEX

party_wagon

iTrader: (29)

Off road isn't as precise as on road. A coke can is realy all you need to get your car setup properly. The engineers have taken all the guess work out of equipment placement. You just have to pick the correct holes and make sure the toe in and ect. lines up well enough.

Rocket42

hey i have had a chance to run the car for a little while know and i can say that my outdrives and universals still look new, the center dogbones have a little flat spot on the pins but other than that everything is good, it will only cost $12 to replace the center dogbones anyways. the car handles great and i'am almost satisfied with the setup i will post it when i have had a chance to test a little more. later

tex1

iTrader: (4)

After 5 race days and nights with two motor breakins and 3 full days of practice I now have 3.5 gallons on the chassis.
Diffs - Finally discolored in the outdrive slots. There is no wear to report. They absolutely do not leak! The fluid will discolor as the cast gears polish themselves inside. I cleaned them up real good and now the diff fluid does not change soo much.
Axils and center shafts - The four corner axils are starting to loosen up very slightly. A very small flat spot is starting to form on the pins. This is expected wear but they are along way from replacing them. The universals are smooth as ever. The center shafts did wear a good flat spot so they got replaced. At $12 I put an extra set in my box with some fuel line clippings to act as springs.
The whole drive train spins super smooth now and is very quiet. Don't get me wrong. It is not Xray smooth but a very good Mugen smooth.

The plastic - needs no attention. I have been trying several "out of the box" things with my car but I haven't noticed where their are any deficencies. Keep some shims handy and you will use the stock stuff for a long time.

Shocks - The fluid has never even changed color. No leaks and I kick myself in the butt because I didn't just leave them on the car. I put a larger diameter Mugen spring on them because I knew the rates. With the larger spring the car stopped squeeking. Very cool.

The bearings are top notch and I haven't had to replace one yet. I'll let you guys know when I start replacing stuff.

So far, all I have to say is WOW!! I am officially stunned. It gets faster every week as I get more comfortable with it.

By far the best car for the money if not the best car overall.
Good job OFNA!

TEX ------ Out!
< ------ I'm not done yet.

rhazzed

Hey guys, I took my Hyper 8 to the track for the first time and it handled beautifully. The only problem I have is that upon acceleration, the lower brake linkage/collar hits the gas tank and prevents me from getting full throttle. I double checked the linkages and they appear to be assembled correctly... so what can I do to stop it from hitting the tank. It has already left some good gouges in the tank now and it wont be long before it rubs through. Any suggestions????


Also.. someone at the track recommended that I remove the grease from the rear diff and put diff oil in there. Now, is there a recommended way to clean out the old grease, and once I determine which thinknes of diff oil to use, how much do I need to fill the up ? Do I fill it up completely ?? please help.

tex1

iTrader: (4)

To stop the front break linkage rod from hitting the tank loosen the verticle screw holding the front break swing arm. Slide the arm towards the back of the diff and retighten. That will give you enough to get by the tank.

If this doesn't work we can address it another way.

Use nitro clean to degrease the diff after you have already dumped all of the grease out. Use WD-40 to finish up and wipe out the rest. WD-40 will not effect the diff oil if there is a little residue left in the diff case when you refill it. In fact I use WD-40 to clean just about everything on the car.

Fill the diff case to just above the 4 bevel gears. You have to leave room for the output gear on the metal side. When you put your screws in make sure the screw holes are clear of excess diff oil. A little air shot down the holes won't hurt anything. Tighten the screws across from each other like a star pattern. When you are done clean the diff assy with a little degreaser and a rag. You might want to mark your diff with the fluid you put in it so you don't forget. A Sharpie works perfect on the dry metal.

I run 3K - 5K - 2K front to rear.

Hope this helps.
TEX

rhazzed

Thanks TEX for the help.

I got the rear diff all cleaned out and ready for oil tomorrow

About the linkage though... I have already adjusted the linkage to were it's nearly hitting the back of the center diff and its still hitting the tank.
I was thinking of removing the spring so the collar makes direct contact with the brake lever and then shorten the linkage so it cant physically reach the tank.. but that does not leave me much room for adjustments.

Do you have any (or can you get some) pictures of your linkage assembly so I can see if mine looks like it's assembled correctly??

Thanks again,
Eric

speedy2

iTrader: (1)

about the brake linkage

you can offset the lever on the servo a little with your trim/ endpoints
so it is backed off on brakes in neutral and shorter on "carburator closed"
you will so gain some mms