Ofna Hyper8 stingray
05-17-2006, 11:38 AM
#151
Originally Posted by kjuliussen
What springs and oil should i use with jammin big bore shocks on Hyper 8?
Last edited by asw7576; 05-18-2006 at 09:39 AM.
05-17-2006, 12:18 PM
#152
I have finished the break in process 
Let me share with you some pix ..... pardon the sticker.
Let me share with you some pix ..... pardon the sticker.
05-21-2006, 10:29 AM
#153
The Hyper 8 is a sweet looking machine.
How are people getting on with the tank? Does it cause problems when running on tracks that run anti clockwise?
How are people getting on with the tank? Does it cause problems when running on tracks that run anti clockwise?
05-21-2006, 03:34 PM
#154
the tank works fine for anti clockwise pit lanes, it might be a little more difficult for a fuel gun to work in that application. i have seen degani run a tank in his car with the conventional opening, i belive it was a hyper 7 tank but i'am not sure. so if your not happy with the tank it can be switched but i plan on keeipng mine as it seems to work well for me, only complaint i have a bout the car is the tank doesn't have and overflow drain to catch the spill and drop it out the bottom, big mistake on hobao'S part IMO.
The tank is weak!!
05-22-2006, 06:31 AM
#156
Well, it's good that these minor issues are highlighted. It looks like a killer buggy for the money.
Hobao for the worlds - what do you reckon?
Hobao for the worlds - what do you reckon?
05-22-2006, 07:15 PM
#157
H8 for the worlds
I would say that is a good bet. It is by far the most stable car I have ever driven.
An interesting characteristic is the car responds well during changing track conditions. It really doesn't care whats going on. This has been a good formula for the cars at the worlds due to the differing track surfaces.
The good news is the issues are very small and easy to correct.
TEX
An interesting characteristic is the car responds well during changing track conditions. It really doesn't care whats going on. This has been a good formula for the cars at the worlds due to the differing track surfaces.
The good news is the issues are very small and easy to correct.
TEX
05-22-2006, 10:30 PM
#158
I'm getting ready to order this kit tomorrow....It should be in Thursday or Friday, and I'm hoping to race it this weekend.
Here's my questions....
1)Do the tires come pre-glued, or are they still unmounted?
2)Has anyone had any issues with engine compatability with the parts supplied with the kit (ie, flywheels, clutch bells, collets, etc..)?
3)Does either a 5-cell hump pack or flat pack fit into the car?
4)Does it come with the servo horns for various brands of servos? I'll be putting an airtronics 94358 in it.
5)Anything else I need to be prepared for? I don't have a hobby shop anywhere close to me, so I have to order anything I need when I order the buggy, so I can have it this weekend.
Thanks in advance....Brad
Here's my questions....
1)Do the tires come pre-glued, or are they still unmounted?
2)Has anyone had any issues with engine compatability with the parts supplied with the kit (ie, flywheels, clutch bells, collets, etc..)?
3)Does either a 5-cell hump pack or flat pack fit into the car?
4)Does it come with the servo horns for various brands of servos? I'll be putting an airtronics 94358 in it.
5)Anything else I need to be prepared for? I don't have a hobby shop anywhere close to me, so I have to order anything I need when I order the buggy, so I can have it this weekend.
Thanks in advance....Brad
05-22-2006, 10:58 PM
#159
1) the tires are un glued and un mounted, the rims are super flexible i would suggest ordering a set of rims and tires and only use the kit ones for street driving or engine break in.
2) i had a issue with my p5x bottoming out in the chassis, i used one self locking washer between the engine mounts and the engine to raise the engine roughly 1mm. this has been the only engine compatibility problem i have ever heard of, i hear that there is no problem with the regular p5.
3) car requires a 5 cell hump pack ofna makes a good 1400mah one and now they have a larger capacity one also.
4) all the servo horns are included, i also use airtronics servos, my kit did not include the throttle brake linkage horn so i press fit the kit one on and have had zero problems with it. this may have been an issue with my car only as i purchased from the first shipment in the states. but either way it will work for you.
5) the car is very durable and i haven't broken a thing on it and i have let a friend drive it and he really thrashed it but everything is still good. i dissambled my kit and found everything threadlocked. i don't think you will need to disassemble the diffs but you should go thru the car and check all the setup options i.e. anti squat front kick up track width and camber and set them too your liking. oh almost forgot i had a problem of the bolt that goes thru the bottom of the front hub carrier into the aluminum hub falling out a couple of times, even though i threadlocked it the screw came out. the last time i used red threadlock and it hasn't fallen out. i think this has been the cause of a couple of people breaking the front aluminun hub carrier. so take these out and red threadlock them. also take your time setting up your throttle and break linkage so that the brake linkage doesn't hit the fuel tank. these cars require a little hand tooling to make right but when ther're right they are so much fun to drive. good luck and feel free to ask questions cause i'am not sponsored by ofna but i try to provide support to racers for this car since the pro's won't.
2) i had a issue with my p5x bottoming out in the chassis, i used one self locking washer between the engine mounts and the engine to raise the engine roughly 1mm. this has been the only engine compatibility problem i have ever heard of, i hear that there is no problem with the regular p5.
3) car requires a 5 cell hump pack ofna makes a good 1400mah one and now they have a larger capacity one also.
4) all the servo horns are included, i also use airtronics servos, my kit did not include the throttle brake linkage horn so i press fit the kit one on and have had zero problems with it. this may have been an issue with my car only as i purchased from the first shipment in the states. but either way it will work for you.
5) the car is very durable and i haven't broken a thing on it and i have let a friend drive it and he really thrashed it but everything is still good. i dissambled my kit and found everything threadlocked. i don't think you will need to disassemble the diffs but you should go thru the car and check all the setup options i.e. anti squat front kick up track width and camber and set them too your liking. oh almost forgot i had a problem of the bolt that goes thru the bottom of the front hub carrier into the aluminum hub falling out a couple of times, even though i threadlocked it the screw came out. the last time i used red threadlock and it hasn't fallen out. i think this has been the cause of a couple of people breaking the front aluminun hub carrier. so take these out and red threadlock them. also take your time setting up your throttle and break linkage so that the brake linkage doesn't hit the fuel tank. these cars require a little hand tooling to make right but when ther're right they are so much fun to drive. good luck and feel free to ask questions cause i'am not sponsored by ofna but i try to provide support to racers for this car since the pro's won't.
05-23-2006, 02:07 AM
#160
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HYPER8
Hi guys
Just some feedback on the Hyper8 & hope to gather some comment.
Been racing for about 5 races already & had following problems :-
1) the fuel tank is too close(literally rubbing against the front brake pads) &
to make matter worst, it is always LEAKING(after changing 3rd new tank)
at the contact area thus spilling & leaving castor oil on the pads,
rendering them useless.
2) the center lighten spur gear(option parts for Hyper7) aluminium flange ring
breaks easily, allowing the outer hardened gear ring to screw further in
& forward & jam into the chassis gear clearance slot.
3) the right side plastic guard mounting stud(the black plastic protruding up)
is also too close(again literally rubbing) to the throttle servo, rubbing a
hole into the servo lower casing.
Just some feedback on the Hyper8 & hope to gather some comment.
Been racing for about 5 races already & had following problems :-
1) the fuel tank is too close(literally rubbing against the front brake pads) &
to make matter worst, it is always LEAKING(after changing 3rd new tank)
at the contact area thus spilling & leaving castor oil on the pads,
rendering them useless.
2) the center lighten spur gear(option parts for Hyper7) aluminium flange ring
breaks easily, allowing the outer hardened gear ring to screw further in
& forward & jam into the chassis gear clearance slot.
3) the right side plastic guard mounting stud(the black plastic protruding up)
is also too close(again literally rubbing) to the throttle servo, rubbing a
hole into the servo lower casing.
05-23-2006, 05:21 AM
#161
1) the fuel tank is too close(literally rubbing against the front brake pads) &
to make matter worst, it is always LEAKING(after changing 3rd new tank)
at the contact area thus spilling & leaving castor oil on the pads,
rendering them useless.
The tanks are very weak. They are too hard of a material. I mounted an Xray tank in my car by mounting it to the stock rear mount, plotting the forward mount hole on the chassis and drilled and countersunk the new hole. Works perfect and never had another problem. I changed to a regular air filter because I could not mount the filter anymore.
2) the center lighten spur gear(option parts for Hyper7) aluminium flange ring
breaks easily, allowing the outer hardened gear ring to screw further in
& forward & jam into the chassis gear clearance slot.
The stock one works fine. I would stick with it.
3) the right side plastic guard mounting stud(the black plastic protruding up)
is also too close(again literally rubbing) to the throttle servo, rubbing a
hole into the servo lower casing.
Yes. You are correct. You should actually cut both sides down at an angle and cut the screws short. The left side will relieve pressure on the fuel line routing. The right side will allow clearance for the throttle servo.
Hope this helps.
TEX
to make matter worst, it is always LEAKING(after changing 3rd new tank)
at the contact area thus spilling & leaving castor oil on the pads,
rendering them useless.
The tanks are very weak. They are too hard of a material. I mounted an Xray tank in my car by mounting it to the stock rear mount, plotting the forward mount hole on the chassis and drilled and countersunk the new hole. Works perfect and never had another problem. I changed to a regular air filter because I could not mount the filter anymore.
2) the center lighten spur gear(option parts for Hyper7) aluminium flange ring
breaks easily, allowing the outer hardened gear ring to screw further in
& forward & jam into the chassis gear clearance slot.
The stock one works fine. I would stick with it.
3) the right side plastic guard mounting stud(the black plastic protruding up)
is also too close(again literally rubbing) to the throttle servo, rubbing a
hole into the servo lower casing.
Yes. You are correct. You should actually cut both sides down at an angle and cut the screws short. The left side will relieve pressure on the fuel line routing. The right side will allow clearance for the throttle servo.
Hope this helps.
TEX
05-23-2006, 07:47 PM
#162
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Thks for your comments Tex,
The tanks are very weak. They are too hard of a material. I mounted an Xray tank in my car by mounting it to the stock rear mount, plotting the forward mount hole on the chassis and drilled and countersunk the new hole. Works perfect and never had another problem. I changed to a regular air filter because I could not mount the filter anymore.
What I understand is that the ultrasound sealing to join the upper & lower pieces of the fuel tank together was not done properly or there is some problem with the equipment. This results in all the tank having same problem
at same area.
Doesn't your original fuel tank rub against the front brake pads ?. Would prefer to stick to using the original unique, good design fuel tank & air filter if there's a solution to the problem.
The stock one works fine. I would stick with it.
That's the stock one I'm referring to having problem. Use a magnet & you can tell the center portion is aluminium alloy while the outer gear ring is steel.
Yes. You are correct. You should actually cut both sides down at an angle and cut the screws short. The left side will relieve pressure on the fuel line routing. The right side will allow clearance for the throttle servo.
I don't have any problem with the left side, only the right side on the servo.
Agreed with Rocket42 that the front aluminium knuckle mounting button-head cap screw is another problem area to note. Yes, even with threadlock I lost mine within 1 heat of 7 mins.. Changing it to regular cap screw does helps, but occassional checking is still required to be safe.
The tanks are very weak. They are too hard of a material. I mounted an Xray tank in my car by mounting it to the stock rear mount, plotting the forward mount hole on the chassis and drilled and countersunk the new hole. Works perfect and never had another problem. I changed to a regular air filter because I could not mount the filter anymore.
What I understand is that the ultrasound sealing to join the upper & lower pieces of the fuel tank together was not done properly or there is some problem with the equipment. This results in all the tank having same problem
at same area.
Doesn't your original fuel tank rub against the front brake pads ?. Would prefer to stick to using the original unique, good design fuel tank & air filter if there's a solution to the problem.
The stock one works fine. I would stick with it.
That's the stock one I'm referring to having problem. Use a magnet & you can tell the center portion is aluminium alloy while the outer gear ring is steel.
Yes. You are correct. You should actually cut both sides down at an angle and cut the screws short. The left side will relieve pressure on the fuel line routing. The right side will allow clearance for the throttle servo.
I don't have any problem with the left side, only the right side on the servo.
Agreed with Rocket42 that the front aluminium knuckle mounting button-head cap screw is another problem area to note. Yes, even with threadlock I lost mine within 1 heat of 7 mins.. Changing it to regular cap screw does helps, but occassional checking is still required to be safe.
05-23-2006, 09:23 PM
#163
i feel sorry for you guys with the tank problems luckily (knock on wood) my tank has no leaks checked it today just to be sure. i have heard that putting an o-ring above and below the tank helps. i sure hope that you contact ofna or ho bao and have them sort this out for you, whether it involves them sending you a hyper 7 tank or what not. also the center gear is bi metal, alumn. inside steel on the gears the purpose of this is to reduce rotating mass, this is the coolest looking spur gear on the market IMO maybe you got a rock stuck and bent it as i have not had a single problem with mine and think its great. if you are wary of buying another one they offer a conventional spur gear for the 8 made completely out of steel. the bi metal is actually the upgraded spur but it comes in the kit.
been 2 race weekends on the red thread locked bolt and its holding tight now
been 2 race weekends on the red thread locked bolt and its holding tight now
05-23-2006, 10:21 PM
#164
Can I super glue the edge where the steel gear meet the alluminium ?
05-24-2006, 01:24 AM
#165
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Well, we don't have the standard all steel spur gear here. Our kit comes with the lighten version also & it sure does make hell of alot of different in weight saving. FYI, the first few sets that came over here have the diffs filled with useless grease & not silicone oil(imagine the hassle of cleaning them away & then fill in silicone oil). 
The only available option is to get the Hyper7 standard all steel spur gear, but that uses the protruding pan-head screw & not counter-sunk type for mounting to the diff. case. Another point is, ain't it funny to have a Hyper8 & than running Hyper7 parts ?.
How about the fuel tank rubbing against the front brake pads ?. Don't you guys have this problem over there ?.
BTW, now I have gone through a new tank(my 4th) joints with a 40W soldering iron to reinforce the seal & hope it can last longer.
Hi asw7576
Believe me, it will never work as I have unscrewed(it's counter-clockwise threaded) mine, applied threadlock till it drips out & re-tighten it back. Next, a hole was drilled where the thread ended & a 1.5mm hardened pin press-fitted in where it meets the flange ring that was gone. It was left to dry for 1 whole week & the following weekend it started moving forward again after 15 mins. practice.
Now I have 4 opposing pins press-fitted & gone through a race without problem.
The only available option is to get the Hyper7 standard all steel spur gear, but that uses the protruding pan-head screw & not counter-sunk type for mounting to the diff. case. Another point is, ain't it funny to have a Hyper8 & than running Hyper7 parts ?. How about the fuel tank rubbing against the front brake pads ?. Don't you guys have this problem over there ?.
BTW, now I have gone through a new tank(my 4th) joints with a 40W soldering iron to reinforce the seal & hope it can last longer.Hi asw7576
Believe me, it will never work as I have unscrewed(it's counter-clockwise threaded) mine, applied threadlock till it drips out & re-tighten it back. Next, a hole was drilled where the thread ended & a 1.5mm hardened pin press-fitted in where it meets the flange ring that was gone. It was left to dry for 1 whole week & the following weekend it started moving forward again after 15 mins. practice.
Now I have 4 opposing pins press-fitted & gone through a race without problem.