21LikesAgama Racing A215 Buggy
02-13-2016, 11:55 AM
#1052
02-15-2016, 12:21 AM
#1053
I am ready for race! Can't wait to race these cars.
Both cars has VRP pistons ( 8-1.2 front and 8-1.3 rear, hudy oil 350 all around ) diff is 7-3-5, Bittydesign stealth wing, Proline body for AE rc8b3 and A215e will have reds electronics and reedy lipos.
Both cars has VRP pistons ( 8-1.2 front and 8-1.3 rear, hudy oil 350 all around ) diff is 7-3-5, Bittydesign stealth wing, Proline body for AE rc8b3 and A215e will have reds electronics and reedy lipos.
Last edited by Arctic RC; 02-15-2016 at 12:38 AM.
02-15-2016, 11:02 AM
#1056
They will work, yes. The aren't keyed the same way as the stock braces, but they fit into the hex holes just the same. You will just have to hold onto them to tighten them.
02-16-2016, 10:26 AM
#1058
Almost a direct fit, it is a bit wide but if you glue on some foam on the sides to protect the body and prevent dirt to get in it fits good. Maybe a 0.5 cm on each side. Adjust the front of the body to the front of the chassie, mark the holes for body posts and cut it accordingly it will be good. Best part is that this body don't rubb on radio tray and have lots of space when mounted. Hope it helps!
02-18-2016, 07:20 AM
#1059
Another option coming soon... 
02-19-2016, 12:59 AM
#1060
Here's another one
i like it
PS...not mine
i like it
PS...not mine
02-19-2016, 04:53 AM
#1061
Really digging the new body option
02-21-2016, 10:41 AM
#1062
I read that most of you are using a short camber link in the front, what is the purpose of that? What location do you have for rear camber link if you use a short front link?
According to setup guides a short link will give more camber gain resulting in less traction while a long link will give more traction and less camber gain. Is that correct?
I understand that short links will give a more responsive car but less stable and you can get a way with less camber angle due to camber gain. Is this correct?
What is your camber angle front and rear with or without short front link.
I try all kinds of settings on vrc pro before I try them on my real buggies just to have an idea of what to expect when I'm at the track. Eager to learn more!
The only thing I setup on my cars after I found a good basic setup for shocks and tires are:
Ride hight
Ackermann position
Roll center
Swaybars
Run on proline daimondbacks last year and will be running supressors this year. No need to change tire patterns here, only the compound. I use x3 and x4.
According to setup guides a short link will give more camber gain resulting in less traction while a long link will give more traction and less camber gain. Is that correct?
I understand that short links will give a more responsive car but less stable and you can get a way with less camber angle due to camber gain. Is this correct?
What is your camber angle front and rear with or without short front link.
I try all kinds of settings on vrc pro before I try them on my real buggies just to have an idea of what to expect when I'm at the track. Eager to learn more!
The only thing I setup on my cars after I found a good basic setup for shocks and tires are:
Ride hight
Ackermann position
Roll center
Swaybars
Run on proline daimondbacks last year and will be running supressors this year. No need to change tire patterns here, only the compound. I use x3 and x4.
02-21-2016, 03:10 PM
#1063
I read that most of you are using a short camber link in the front, what is the purpose of that? What location do you have for rear camber link if you use a short front link?
According to setup guides a short link will give more camber gain resulting in less traction while a long link will give more traction and less camber gain. Is that correct?
I understand that short links will give a more responsive car but less stable and you can get a way with less camber angle due to camber gain. Is this correct?
What is your camber angle front and rear with or without short front link.
I try all kinds of settings on vrc pro before I try them on my real buggies just to have an idea of what to expect when I'm at the track. Eager to learn more!
The only thing I setup on my cars after I found a good basic setup for shocks and tires are:
Ride hight
Ackermann position
Roll center
Swaybars
Run on proline daimondbacks last year and will be running supressors this year. No need to change tire patterns here, only the compound. I use x3 and x4.
According to setup guides a short link will give more camber gain resulting in less traction while a long link will give more traction and less camber gain. Is that correct?
I understand that short links will give a more responsive car but less stable and you can get a way with less camber angle due to camber gain. Is this correct?
What is your camber angle front and rear with or without short front link.
I try all kinds of settings on vrc pro before I try them on my real buggies just to have an idea of what to expect when I'm at the track. Eager to learn more!
The only thing I setup on my cars after I found a good basic setup for shocks and tires are:
Ride hight
Ackermann position
Roll center
Swaybars
Run on proline daimondbacks last year and will be running supressors this year. No need to change tire patterns here, only the compound. I use x3 and x4.
You sound pretty spot on, answered your own questions. Dont have the car yet, but from what i understand people are running the short link up front to take away some steering. And a long link in the rear would give you more traction back there. Don't know what people are running in the rear though.
02-22-2016, 04:45 AM
#1064
I run short front link by going to the inside hole on the caster block. This has given the car more initial turn-in and getting rid of some of the crazy on-power steering. I think it's better suited for the type of tracks I run on and makes the car feel like other cars I have driven. The short front link allows me more acceleration coming out of the turns without the risk of loosing the rear. Large flowing tracks with big sweepers and the long front link may be needed.
Rear link, is inside on tower and 2nd hole from the inside on the rear hub.
All camber links on the towers are usually always in the lowest hole or one hole up from the bottom.
Camber usually stays the same. 1 to 1.5, maybe 2.
Try the short front link before kicking it and while you're at it, drop the front diff oil. 20k in my mind is way to much and takes away from turn-in.
My diffs are usually 5-5-3 with the exception of this weekend and I went to 7k in the front.
Rear link, is inside on tower and 2nd hole from the inside on the rear hub.
All camber links on the towers are usually always in the lowest hole or one hole up from the bottom.
Camber usually stays the same. 1 to 1.5, maybe 2.
Try the short front link before kicking it and while you're at it, drop the front diff oil. 20k in my mind is way to much and takes away from turn-in.
My diffs are usually 5-5-3 with the exception of this weekend and I went to 7k in the front.
02-26-2016, 01:47 PM
#1065
