4LikesSoar 998 buggy
06-08-2015, 12:25 AM
#436
Got a 3rd place finish at Round 3 for the JBRL Fear Farm in Intermediate, it was a good run for the 998.
06-08-2015, 03:33 AM
#437
Tech Addict
looking forward to the next 6months of soaring
06-09-2015, 10:50 PM
#438
06-15-2015, 11:35 PM
#440
I sent an e-mail on my set up to Soar but has not been posted, but here's what I did.
5k front,7k center,3k rear diff oils
front shock position lower,inside
front shock tower #3 hole from the top
-2 degrees front camber
-3 degrees rear camber
-1 degree front toe
3 degree rear toe insert, dot on upper corner position
middle hole on rear upright
inside middle camberlink position on shock tower
wheelbase on rear thicker bushing on the front of the upright
antisquat 2 degrees
front kickup, middle inserts
upper arm inserts also in the middle
46 spur, 14 clutch bell
1.1 x2 clutch spring w/ 1.0x1
caster, have not figureed out the overall degree but I have a 3mm on the rear of the arm
Width, 2mm offset mugen hubs on the rear and 1mm offset mugen hubs on the front, also 1mm on each side of the lower arm
rear shock position on the tower #2 from the top
shimmed the steering links on the steering knuckle by 3mm, kills the active toe when using long travel droop.
DE Mugen front bumper skid, its a direct fit.
stock sway bars
5k front,7k center,3k rear diff oils
front shock position lower,inside
front shock tower #3 hole from the top
-2 degrees front camber
-3 degrees rear camber
-1 degree front toe
3 degree rear toe insert, dot on upper corner position
middle hole on rear upright
inside middle camberlink position on shock tower
wheelbase on rear thicker bushing on the front of the upright
antisquat 2 degrees
front kickup, middle inserts
upper arm inserts also in the middle
46 spur, 14 clutch bell
1.1 x2 clutch spring w/ 1.0x1
caster, have not figureed out the overall degree but I have a 3mm on the rear of the arm
Width, 2mm offset mugen hubs on the rear and 1mm offset mugen hubs on the front, also 1mm on each side of the lower arm
rear shock position on the tower #2 from the top
shimmed the steering links on the steering knuckle by 3mm, kills the active toe when using long travel droop.
DE Mugen front bumper skid, its a direct fit.
stock sway bars
06-16-2015, 11:04 PM
#442
I had to use my HN shocks because I had a bad crash with another car that broke my front shock.
But on knuckle rear hole, steer rack in the middle
Proline M3 Suppressors.
But the numbers on those shocks were 1.2x 8 hole 50wt front 45wt rear
Before the crash I was using the stock piston 35wt front and 25wt rear, all on AE oils
But on knuckle rear hole, steer rack in the middle
Proline M3 Suppressors.
But the numbers on those shocks were 1.2x 8 hole 50wt front 45wt rear
Before the crash I was using the stock piston 35wt front and 25wt rear, all on AE oils
07-07-2015, 03:25 AM
#443
Tech Addict
http://www.neobuggy.net/2015/06/30/b...-win-in-spain/
awsome result for soar and nic.... and i wish all who will be at the euros a fantastic time
... lucky guys have the warmth grr and us guys from downunder are supposed to have the weather :P
awsome result for soar and nic.... and i wish all who will be at the euros a fantastic time
... lucky guys have the warmth grr and us guys from downunder are supposed to have the weather :P
07-16-2015, 03:18 PM
#444
Just moved back to Germany and I'm running mostly 1/8th scale outside again. I'm going to be upgrading from my TLR 2.0 EU (with many 3.0 parts, hence the 2.5 in my sig) to a new buggy for next year. I was pretty set on the TLR 3.0, but this buggy has me checking into actually making a brand change. I've been wanting to pick up a pillow ball car to try out and see if I like the way they drive. Hmmnnn... so much to think about.
07-16-2015, 05:56 PM
#445
Just moved back to Germany and I'm running mostly 1/8th scale outside again. I'm going to be upgrading from my TLR 2.0 EU (with many 3.0 parts, hence the 2.5 in my sig) to a new buggy for next year. I was pretty set on the TLR 3.0, but this buggy has me checking into actually making a brand change. I've been wanting to pick up a pillow ball car to try out and see if I like the way they drive. Hmmnnn... so much to think about.
I got to say this version of King pin/pillow ball is smoother and more predictable towards the steering aspects of the car. The turn through the more bumpy sections of a track can more felt out and you can react and counter steer out before you loose the rear end, I myself have a harder time driving he Mugen car than the 998, and I hve driven several friends M cars and I get the same feel. The shocks have just a little more volume and dampens well with the stock pistons, I use anywhere from 50 to 30wt oils in the car, right now Im at 40front and 30 rear with a loose and bumpy track in the main, when smooth im at 50front and 35 rear. As in durability you get that for sure I have my car at its limit right now in wear. I'm waiting for parts to arrive to rebuild my car, but I have about .05mm of a chassis at the rear and my driveline and cups have some notching and flatspots and I've been running the car since late April and running at least two times a week at the local track. I have broken one set of front arms driving crazy and hitting a solid section of a pipe coupler and cracking one upper arm from a big lawndart and I have had several of those, so I would think I would be replacing more arms but that is not the case, sure the arms are clapped out now but I've been going to see how long it would go before these ones break. So far they only need change now because the are worn out instead of being broken.
07-17-2015, 02:21 AM
#446
I got to say this version of King pin/pillow ball is smoother and more predictable towards the steering aspects of the car. The turn through the more bumpy sections of a track can more felt out and you can react and counter steer out before you loose the rear end, I myself have a harder time driving he Mugen car than the 998, and I hve driven several friends M cars and I get the same feel. The shocks have just a little more volume and dampens well with the stock pistons, I use anywhere from 50 to 30wt oils in the car, right now Im at 40front and 30 rear with a loose and bumpy track in the main, when smooth im at 50front and 35 rear. As in durability you get that for sure I have my car at its limit right now in wear. I'm waiting for parts to arrive to rebuild my car, but I have about .05mm of a chassis at the rear and my driveline and cups have some notching and flatspots and I've been running the car since late April and running at least two times a week at the local track. I have broken one set of front arms driving crazy and hitting a solid section of a pipe coupler and cracking one upper arm from a big lawndart and I have had several of those, so I would think I would be replacing more arms but that is not the case, sure the arms are clapped out now but I've been going to see how long it would go before these ones break. So far they only need change now because the are worn out instead of being broken.
07-18-2015, 02:03 AM
#447
One good question for you guys that own the buggy... Is there a quick change motor mount available for this car? I've been looking around and don't see any.
07-18-2015, 06:12 PM
#448
Tech Addict
X fingers but it isnt much effort other wise to keep the same positioning of the engine by just taking the screws from the top of.. so you dont have to readjust.. the new buggy from what dragan here in oz has demonstraighted is planted when its set up just right for a track.. theres a video on youtube of it...
think its been linked in this thread not long ago.. so have a look other wise ill try and find it
07-18-2015, 06:18 PM
#449
Tech Addict