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Old 08-29-2015, 02:15 PM
  #1246  
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just use a little shoe goo. it is just to hold them in place until you get the screws in. should be easy to remove later.
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Old 08-30-2015, 09:36 AM
  #1247  
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Hi Guys,

I just wanted to let you know that I still have the Tekno rear skid plates available on my web store. I have dropped the front skid plates from my product line since they just weren't selling that well.

Thanks,


Chris


http://www.ape-rc.com/#!/Tekno-Stain...tegory=3679203

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Old 08-30-2015, 08:17 PM
  #1248  
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Thanks nitroal, anything I should be aware of during build?
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Old 08-30-2015, 08:27 PM
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Don't over tighten the screws in the plastic. Common sense I no.
Compared to an xray or serpent kit the screws on a Tekno kit go in much easier.
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Old 08-31-2015, 11:15 AM
  #1250  
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take your time putting the front and rear diffs in with the spacers. The first time or 2 can be a little tough to get them in without bending the spacers. After you have done it a couple of times, it gets easier. otherwise, the build goes very good.
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Old 08-31-2015, 07:59 PM
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Default Clutch Bell Teeth

Will running a tighter mesh reduce the wear on clutch bell teeth?
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Old 09-01-2015, 08:19 PM
  #1252  
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I use a double thick piece of paper to set my mesh. Which brand cb are you using? I have found that the losi brand has the best wear. Tekno bells are good, but I have found that they are not consistent in wear. I have had 1 that wore out after 2 races and another that went 7 before needing replaced. I run for dialed rc and use the thunder innovations cb most of the time. It doesn't last like the losi, but at my cost, it has about the same value.
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Old 09-02-2015, 01:32 AM
  #1253  
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Well i have posted my package back to Tekno in the USA today to receive the chassis and spurs warranty offer, Just a heads up for the Australians, unless you have a few items the postage is a killer, for me to send 2 x NT48 chassis ( 1 used, 1 new & @ 2 x NT48 new spurs back to Tekno, total including signed tracking $ 39.80.

So if your thinking of just sending the chassis back for this 50% warranty offer your going to loose a large amount of the savings to Australiapost.

Well sitting back waiting for the turn around so i can get these two truggies back up and running, cheers Tekno
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Old 09-02-2015, 03:33 AM
  #1254  
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Originally Posted by nitroal
I use a double thick piece of paper to set my mesh. Which brand cb are you using? I have found that the losi brand has the best wear. Tekno bells are good, but I have found that they are not consistent in wear. I have had 1 that wore out after 2 races and another that went 7 before needing replaced. I run for dialed rc and use the thunder innovations cb most of the time. It doesn't last like the losi, but at my cost, it has about the same value.
I'm using Tekno. I have a losi 14T hardened bell but I have to shim it a lot behind the bell to get the bell off the clutch assembly. Then, i can see the clutch shoes. Does losi regular clutch bell fit better?
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Old 09-02-2015, 04:51 PM
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I hope to see allot of Tekno's at the Jconcepts Southern Nats. Any one who ran last year and can post setup, please do! My local track is loomy and loose but it has little bite. I last ran at the Nats in 2012 and from what I seen on YouTube the track conditions are the same unless Jeff and crew are adding am additive this year. I know setup is all about how you drive and how car feels to you. I'm running
NT48
7/10/5
600f/500r stock pistons
Camber -2 F&R
Droop 121f/132r
Height 38f/40r
Please post your setups...

Last edited by paposwing14; 09-07-2015 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 09-02-2015, 05:25 PM
  #1256  
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Originally Posted by qstorm777
I'm using Tekno. I have a losi 14T hardened bell but I have to shim it a lot behind the bell to get the bell off the clutch assembly. Then, i can see the clutch shoes. Does losi regular clutch bell fit better?
My losi bells only take a couple shims to bring them out far enough. I bring them out just until they don't rub the flywheel. I'm not sure why you have to bring yours out so far?
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Old 09-02-2015, 08:05 PM
  #1257  
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Originally Posted by nitroal
take your time putting the front and rear diffs in with the spacers. The first time or 2 can be a little tough to get them in without bending the spacers. After you have done it a couple of times, it gets easier. otherwise, the build goes very good.
Most of us Team Drivers are using 8x10x0.1 shims on the inside of the bearing behind the crown gear on the front and rear diffs. That way you don't need to hassle with those flimsy large shims that bend so easily.

http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/ofna-8x...n19482/p271891
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Old 09-06-2015, 10:40 AM
  #1258  
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Default Tekno New Chassis

Has anyone run the new Tekno chassis? I'm wondering what thoughts are one it? I'm also wondering if you have to soften the tuning a little to get the same characteristics as the old chassis?
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Old 09-08-2015, 11:42 AM
  #1259  
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No, the handling is pretty much the same. Most of the changes only affect the
chassis right under gear mesh.

I ran mine this weekend at silver dollar with pretty much the exact same setup
as the Nats with the exception of the new chassis and brake parts and it had
just as much steering and rear grip as ever.

The new pads and rotors work awesome and the new linkage is big improvement
over the old style. The chassis itself is a direct replacement and fits perfect.


The only thing missing???? That little pile of metal shavings that used to accumulate under the spur after a weekend of running.
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Old 09-09-2015, 06:53 AM
  #1260  
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Default 6x1.5 Pistons

I'm running 6x1.5 pistons. Seems like most run these with shocks in the outer arm location. If I want to run shocks in the inner arm location, should I go up in oil weight?

Anybody tried the 4x1.8 pistons?
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