Very nice John, and your a lucky guy!:nod:

Just cleaned up my truggy for a long racing weekend coming up! Just wanted to point out it took me about 20 minutes! BAM!!!

Mo Denton I see your in pa! I race at Mbrc a lot hope to see you at the hobbico race this weekend! The keystone classic. Lotsa big names coming, Ryan lutz will be there which is gonna be cool!

What starter box are you guys using for the truggy?

Ofna, blue one

Mo glad I could help you out for the big race this weekend at the bowl. What are you running in the diffs? Do yourself a favor and buy a second kit for parts. Its much cheaper that way. Johns spur teeth were getting trashed also. I gave him my center assembly to finish out the weekend. Im loving the truggy.

Stirex, thanks for the info. I just ordered one. Are the nickel packs good enough for power to start the truggy?

Tekno RC, I just send you an email for the updated tank. I purchased 2 kits. Very happy with the truggy.

change the wiring and put a 4s lipo on it starter box lipo there cheap as and last a long time

just remember dont run them to low as no cut off etc but you will easy get a few days racing out of a lipo charge :nod: :nod: :nod:

i top mine up after every days use before i go back to the track just like glow plug igniters

yeah thanks man the spur gear saved the weekend! I currently have
7-10-5 in my diffs with the black shims and its awesome for tracks in our area. lots of steering and lots of acceleration. yeah John said he borrowed yours but wasn't allowed to touch it..lol I said yeah I can see that..lol I have never seen a pit bag more organized before in my life!

I trashed my spur gear too this weekend at the Quebecclassic! Was fun qualifying and racing with Tessmann, Drake, Savoya, on my home track!

Love my truggy. But I have been through 3 spur gears already. Tried tighter and looser gear mesh. Same thing. I think the flex around the center diff is causing it. Anyone got a solution.

Yeah thank you so much John jones for the use if your center gear. I left the 20k in it and it was a little thicker than what I'm using and made the back wanna come around if I got too grabby with throttle. Awesome driving Mo Denton, really impressive come back. I'm overall thrilled with the truck but the center gears are looking to be problematic... Guess I'm gonna need to stock a few myself... Otherwise it's indestructible!

I tried! no one can say I don't pull the trigger! my clutch nut loosened so had to pull the engine then fix it then go out and play catch up. it was fun to make up 4 minutes in a 20 minute main. had a nice 2nd place locked up but thanks to Allens pit guy had to settle for 3rd.;)

For those that are stripping the spur, are you running the center diff brace TKR5362? Step E-2 in the manual. Also, is everyone running all 3 riser pads for the center diff, TKR5310? Gathering data :)

Thanks Mo for the praise. I will try your set up for the diffs. I wasnt happy either with the 20-20-10. Seemed strange to me, running the same diff weight in the front and center. I never did that in racing 5th scale.

I find it odd that people are stripping spur gears? :confused:

Are you guys using the long rear chassis brace or only the short one? I haven't' had any durability issues with the truck at all. I use the long rear chassis brace and stock center diff raisers/center diff brace. It's been rock solid!

Response to tekno
 

Heres what im running.. long rear brace, Removed short rear brace. Running diff case brace. Running 3 risers under the diff and brace. All three are ca glued in place. Running rear motor, if there's a concern about chassis flex causing problems maybe there's more flex towards the back, or maybe the weight of the motor farther back causes more flex. My diff gear didn't break, it's just worn so severely and the teeth are getting so thin I didn't trust it, and it made my truck sound like a meat grinder. After my 6th weekend of racing, I noticed the noise. I found some wear and tightened the mesh slightly, and ran it for the 7th weekend. Ran it again during track open practice/ seeding on this past Friday. Put in a new clutch bell to try to get some more life out if the center gear. After running qualifiers Saturday I noticed it had become severe enough I pulled the fuel tank so I could see the mesh and realized that it was worn so bad that if I pushed the mesh tight the clutchbell teeth were hitting the valley in between the center gear teeth and could see space between the teeth. there was metallic powder inline with the center gear on the chassis. I've never run a loose mesh, but not overly tight, and my motors never slipped. I set mesh like I set it on my 2 Mugen truggies i ran the last 2 seasons and I never had to replace a gear on them. I replace my clutch bearings every time I check my clutch, and I do that after every weekend of racing. The teeth are still tall, and there's no missing edges, but I can see where the material is mushroomed out on the edges of the teeth, where the clutch bell teeth push them. It seemed when the gear got worn a bit, the wear started happening at a faster speed. I know there are ways to surface harden like a camshaft is, if the hardened outer is worn through it exposes the softer I hardened metal underneath. Not sure how or if these gears are hardened. Also saw Mos gear with little wear on the gear but missing 2 teeth. I can post pics tonight of both gears if that helps, I think I tossed mos broken gear I picked out of the trash when I was trying to size up center gears from other brand trucks the hobby shop had in stock. On a side note I ran Mugen mbx6 Eco center gears on my mbx6tr all this season before I dumped them in favor of the tekno... That's a plastic gear and it never broke. Plus it removed so much weight it was noticeable change in acceleration... Never broke one of them and my clutch teeth always looked like new. But that being said, I absolutely love my tekno nt48 it's the best driving truggy hands down! Thanks tekno!

Running the center diff brace and only the long rear chassis brace. As for the riser pads. I believe I am using only the thin one.

Thanks Thomas for the great customer service! Just placed my order for the 2 revised tanks. Tekno for life!

I'm using all the braces and the riser pads motor front position.

I thought tge 20 20 10 felt floaty around the track but not really locked in. I kept going down till I settled on 7 10 5. Maybe its just better on our mid size tracks around here. Also make sure you have black diff shims

my mate found it was too tail happy when he was raceing his et48 with 20/20/10
every time he pull the trigger out the corner he would wheel spin out what would yours have run in a large track size with blue grave and hard pack clay but dusty and losy track

If I were to run on a track like that I would start at 10 10 5 or 15 10 5. If it got loose after 30 minutes of continuous running go to 7 in the back

Running 7-10-5 in the diffs now. I will let you know how I like that set up. Racing the truggy this weekend on saturday, with John E. I have to say that I dont miss my 5th scale truck at all at this point. Way easier to service and much lighter. The 40lb Losi 5T was wearing my old ass out. Mo are you coming out to race with us again soon? We have to put on another Tekno show for the Mugen boys, and smoke their asses!

tekno vs. mugen would be a fun time! but I am off for a few. next race for me is the BBR 4.0 at The Track in Carleton MI. 400 entries in one day on 2 tracks!!

Good luck! Hope to see you again this summer at the bowl.

Just got the Ofna blue top starter box. I have my engine mounted forward. Will it line up like this? John E has his motor in the rear. We were both using the Mugen boxes last week, and I had to hold the truck back on the pins, not to hit the plastic cover. Should I move the motor to the rear for the Ofna box?

if the box pins are set right, you will be fine with front motor mount. I use the ofna box with motor forward.

You have to swap the front and rear plates. At that point you will need to
drill a new hole for the cover screw or use velcro.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...img-0565-1.png


The car needs to sit offset slightly for the flywheel.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...img-0357-1.jpg


Both cars fit on the same box if you get the pins right.


http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...5-img-0315.jpg

Nice paint! Clean classy and bad ass!

I use the of a box and didn't have to drill any new holes with the motor forward but did use a piece of Velcro to use in place of the screw for closing it cause the rear slide cover the screw

Thats pretty much what I was trying to get across. the rear plate blocks the
lid screw, you either drill through the plate to access the hole or use velcro.

Thanks for the info! So your saying the rear of the truck is above the grab handle? I see. I was trying the plates mounted the other way. Thanks for the pics!

Received my 2 updated tanks yesterday. Great customer service Tekno!

Thanks JSK for the pics. I just assembled the box. Works perfect!

Does it matter which center diff risers you use on the bottom of the center diff? looks like 1mm or 2mm.

Use the 1mm risers. The 2mm risers are for an optional spur gear that Tekno decided not to make.

Your wecome. I would suggest getting rid of the tamiya connector if your still running that and upgrading to a Deans. I also took all the plug in connectors out of mine and soldered everything. 7 seasons , zero problems , best starter box on the market by far.

Ok rear drive shaft bending is from casing the jump I did one today from a single case of a jump but I straightened it again as I don't have a spare :eek:

That's with single long rear brace and as per the book instruction with plate under motor.

Please not though this was a bad case of a jump and that was the only issue from it :)