Naphtha
#16
This seems like a really unnecessary step in the maintenance process. Just dump it all on a towel. Wipe out the inside of the case with a paper towel. Let the oil run off the gears onto the towel. Reassemble and refill. Takes like 60 seconds if you do it often enough.
I pull my diffs apart on paper towels, and put the cup upside down while I'm wiping the old oil off of the individual parts. By the time I've wiped the gears, cross pins, and outdrives, the oil has drained out of the cup. Quick wipe with a paper towel on the inside, and it's ready to reassemble.
I rebuild my diffs after every big race weekend, or every other weekend if its just club racing. Takes me about 5-8 minutes per diff.....unless my son is watching, then I go really slow, so he can learn.
#17
This seems like a really unnecessary step in the maintenance process. Just dump it all on a towel. Wipe out the inside of the case with a paper towel. Let the oil run off the gears onto the towel. Reassemble and refill. Takes like 60 seconds if you do it often enough.
Takes stuff all time & everything is spotless without using any real dangerous chemicals.
#18
I give my gears a bit of a rinse in WD40 & a quick brush over with a tooth brush & spray a little in the diff case & give a quick brush with tooth brush just to help remove any fine metal parts that may be there, then I just pat them dry with paper towel or fabric hand towel to remove any residue.
Takes stuff all time & everything is spotless without using any real dangerous chemicals.
Takes stuff all time & everything is spotless without using any real dangerous chemicals.
The thing that I do differently is after a soak and quick scrub in WD-40, I will pull the parts out of the WD-40, let the excess drain off and then they go into a bath of Simple Green degreaser to soak for 5 min. or so to remove the WD-40. A quick rinse in water, pat the parts dry with paper towell or an old rag, and finish up with some compressed air to completely dry the parts.
They look like brand new with signs of any left over diff oil or crud on the parts. Yes, a few steps to go through but my diff components are completely clean with no left over crud, diff lube, or cleaning chemicals to break down my new diff oil.
Naphtha is basically lighter fluid. We use naphtha at where I work. I used to fill my Zippo lighter with naphtha, when I ran out of lighter fluid. Works great in a zippo!!!
A buddy of mine uses straight Simple Green (not diluted) to soak his diff parts in (minus bearings and O rings). He said it works pretty good for him. It takes a little longer to get the parts clean. Then he quick rinse in water and some compressed air to dry them.
#19
Naphtha is way more broad than lighter fluid
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naphtha
I posted a link to Daves website, contact him and ask him what it can do, he had severe nervous system damage
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naphtha
I posted a link to Daves website, contact him and ask him what it can do, he had severe nervous system damage
#20
Naphtha is way more broad than lighter fluid
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naphtha
I posted a link to Daves website, contact him and ask him what it can do, he had severe nervous system damage
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naphtha
I posted a link to Daves website, contact him and ask him what it can do, he had severe nervous system damage
#21
Can I ask what he was using the Naptha for to have such severe damage to his nervous system? It could not have been from 5 minute exposure once a month to clean diffs right? I did not read the article but my condolences go out to him and I am genuinely curious what he was doing with it.
Each time your exposed it stays in your system and keeps building up
Most guys clean there diff's every week, some twice a week depending how much they race.
Naphtha gets even more dangerous as its mixed with other chemicals in RC racing, one of which is Benzene
#22
Tech Regular
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From: Illinois
I can’t stress this enough. If anyone is using naphtha please wear rubber gloves and a dust mask with good ventilation. If you have to use it inside with low ventilation please wear a respirator.
Doug
Doug
Last edited by longrcnitro; 05-05-2013 at 03:13 PM. Reason: spelling
#23
If you want to clean other things like bearings or CVD parts that have other kinds of synthetic or more refined based stock greases/oils, you'll need more volatile chemicals.
I mean, the only real objective of 'cleaning' diffs should be to remove any foreign dirt/debris that got mixed inside and flushing out the previous mineral oil. I don't understand why the need for harsh chemicals for a full cleanse.



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