so if i add more antisquat the rear will have more traction when i come out of a corner and punch the throtle???sorry to ask but i want to make this clear to me.also many people say thicker rear diff oil.a thicker rear diff oil will make the rear slide more right on power???like real cars right???in my understanding i need thinner rear diff oil so the car not powerslide when on throotle and more antisquat.or i getting something wrong??

I am using 4,000 rear diff oil now, but sometimes go to 3 or 5k. Thinner will give more traction until it unloads the inner tire. Thicker will give more traction until it breaks loose both tires. If it is a high traction track go higher. If it is a loose track, go thinner.

the track is dusty outdoor so i try thinner oil in the rear and see what happens.can you tell me about the antisquat??what are you running for antisquat in dusty outdoor hardpacked track???i am wrong in my thoughts that more antisquat will give more rear traction and reduce powerslide when coming out of a corner and punch the trottle???

You are correct. I usually use a 0 insert for ant-squat.

i made some changes an go today at the track car is good but still the steering is not smooth i give the car in three diferent people and all the three say about the steering.one said to much steering one said slow steering and one that my transmiter is slow not helping.i reduce dual rate but in high speed turns is okay but in slow turns too wide radius.my feeling is that when i am out of turn car feels like is still steering so when i punch the throtlle spins out.i try more kick up but car transfer too much front weight in off power and makes the rear loose off power.i try middle hole in accerman usually i have front holes in accerman to reduce steering.my track is bumpy and the most drivers use 8 holes pistons i have 1.3 6hole front and back with 550cps front and 450cps rear and is okay i have mugens 8 hole pistons 1.2 anyone use this pistons in intech??sorry for the long post but i really love intech and try to find a balance in my set up.i am the only driver with intech in my track so i can find anyone to help me.i need more rear traction a want the car to be planted in the rear in off power and on power my problem is the rear end.

this is my set up for dusty hardpacked bumby track.here is a video from the track https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tj3f1jdbVzE

Are you using the short rear arms and offset ERSC-10 uprights?

stock everything.

OK, try the short rear arms. That completely changes the geometry and give the buggy more rear traction and corner speed. It's a totally different car imo.
100142 and 100146

Shorts arms with offset uprights.

i thought short arms are for beter rotation and makes the rear end rotate quicker??

Yes, quicker rotation and then it squares up quicker (changes direction faster and then straightens up faster) for more forward traction and less side traction (corner traction).

The short rear arms make the rear geometry the same as a Kyosho MP9, and similar to a Losi and Mugen and Xray. If they all use arms nearly the same length as the Intech short arms, I can't see how it would be a bad thing to use on the BR-6. ;)

one driver here in greece test them and said that it is not good for euro tracks style.thats way i have not test them.
ok i will test short arms i already order them.you see my set up?what else i need to change when i install the short rear arms??

Shim the front arms all the way forward. Use the middle ackerman hole and the lower camber link hole on the tower. Try the outer hole on the arms for the lower shock mounts. Try 14' caster blocks. Rear uprights all the way forward for more traction.

My setup

in your set up yoou have the rear arms all the way back right??so i shoud do that or only the front arms forward and the rear urights forward??also i have already the rear shocks in outer hole in arms but front shocks in inside hole in arm because of limited droop.

Yes, rear arms shimmed all the way back for longest wheel base.
Inner hole in front arm is fine, but outer hole will reduce steering. Use lower hole on front tower also to get the down travel back.

Short rear arms is the way to go,makes the car feel way better in the corners and helps on power traction.

one question i receive the short rear arms.the upper link must be mounted in inner holes in uprights like i see in the pictures??and what the length for the upper link so camber is around 2degreees or less??

You can use any of the 3 locations. The length will be the exact same as on the stock uprights. I use the inner hole for the most rotation.

Have you tested the short rear arm? What is your feeling?

no i have not test them yet because local track is close for rebuilt untll 12 february.i also get a better radio(futaba 4pls)and a faster servo protek 100ss

what is a good base oil combo for 1.2 8 hole piston??in gene set up i see 550cst front 450cst rear.

Try 600/400

i just return from the track.the track i run has new layout.i test the sort arms and the car feels more planted in the rear on power.but i want more rear grip the car feels very good almost but i need more rear traction.note i use 8 hole x1.2 shock pistons i include my set up

Try shimming the front arms forward and the rear arms back. Then shim the rear uprights all the way forward. That gives a longer wheel base and moves the rear tires more towards the center for more rear traction.

Also try 5,000 center diff oil. And tray 400cts in the rear shocks for more rear weight transfer. And limit the rear down travel so there is less weight transfer to the front. And use the lower inner camber link hole in the rear tower. You are using the upper hole which provides the least amount of rear traction.

ok thanks i will try 400cst oil and the arms.rear downtravel is set to match the front.I thought that upper hole in rear camber link gives more side traction in the rear??Also can you explain me something?Everyone use fast and torque servo for steering so i purchased a new steering servo with 0.008 speed and 13kg torque.In the track the steering was so fast that i forced to reduced turn speed from my transmiter a lot.But i did not reduce the return speed.Should i reduced also the return speed??How drivers managed to drive with so fast steering??I want the car to have smooth steering.One more question titanium screws bent easier than steel screws or the opposite?

I use high torq servos, I do not like high speed servos.

Titanium is much weaker then steel but lighter.

What other bodies will fit best on the BR6 2.0 ?

What companies make option parts for the car?

I've fitted the bitty force for the 808 xray. Others use mbx6/7 bodies with good results.

Vp pro has some shock pistons and springs. Intech has a variety of hop ups. Check out dialed rc for all the intech options and parts

What sort of things would be worth upgrading out of the box?

i use jconcepts silencer body for mugen mbx7 fits very nice

Short rear arms & offset uprights, lightened outdrives, pistons, bladders, and springs are the most important.

proline phantom body for mbx7r does not fit, just a heads up so you don't buy something you can't use.

If you use the Optima flexible body mounts, any MBX-6/7 body will fit. You just have to cut it out differently. Mount before painting it.

It ended with a XB9 from Sweep Design and it looks like this.

https://scontent-ams3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...50&oe=574D8047

https://scontent-ams3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...df&oe=5766D664

https://scontent-ams3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...02&oe=574D5BA6

hello to everyone.my car is understeer in the start of a corner and oversteer in exit of the corner.dif oils are 7-4-2.

can someone explain to me about rear camber??more camber more rera traction or less??