RCRacing.com.au

iTrader: (2)

Why would they go from 3.5mm shafts to 3mm shafts?
They went to 3.5mm in the Big Bore's cause people were bending the 3mm ones on the X1-CR Pro.
I like the idea of bigger pistons and shock bodies though!
That's all i meant about the Losi 8ight shocks as they have 4mm shafts and i think the pistons are around 15mm too.
Let us know how they go please.

Jerseyboy

Sorry typo. Its the standard shafts with bigger pistons and bodies.

Well the team ended up 3rd in the truggy finals of the RC Pro series. Truck stripped a diff so we lost some time. Shocks performed very well.

Jammin"145

I have been running Mugen White shoes with 1.0's and use a small shim between the shoe and flywheel.
Also i like a small amount of end play in the CB.

I dont know if this clutch set up is the best but it works for me and has been very reliable.

Mister-E

iTrader: (1)

Hi guys,

I'm a very content X1CR racer and running it in the hot environment of Dubai.
Since 1 year, the car has proven it's quality in the sandy track.
On the car, I'm running JP engine B5 which is using turbo glow plug and has runned 2 gallon of fuel now (25% nitro).
The plug I'm using is SH nr 8.
Somehow, after approx 6 tanks, the glow plug dies.

Any idea what to do?



Thanks a lot in advance with your feedback and keep up the informative thread!!!

RCRacing.com.au

iTrader: (2)

Change the plug!!!
You need to 'Read' your plug.
If it goes black quickly then the motor is too rich.
If it makes the element go grey and distorted after one tank it is too lean.
The element should stay chrome for at least 2-4 tanks then it will start going grey.
I usually change mine every 6-10 tanks anyway.
The last thing you want it a broken element to go into yout motor.
Cheaper to change the plug than the piston & liner
The other thing is you shouldn't run a "SH" plug in a JP motor.
Do you know what SH stands for?
Anyway try running the equivelent in either a JP plug or Novarossi plug.
I run only Novarossi plugs in my Plus 21-5T and they have never failed me yet!
I can get 2-3 litres out of a plug if i kept using it.
They are way better quality than SH plugs, just like the engines are way better quality.

Mister-E

iTrader: (1)

Thanks a lot for the advice Steve!!!

The engine is producing a "healthy trail of smoke" when I hit the throttle and also the "sound" of the engine is OK when screaming.
So I don't think that glow plug dies caused by to rich or lean although I'm trying to run it rich to protect the engine (Man, it's hot here!! Last time it rained was in February).

What I will do is try to get some Novarossi turbo nr 7&8 plugs.

BTW, what does SH means?? => please PM me on that

Jason Halvorson

iTrader: (22)

I would say to run a colder plug....the sh nr 8 is a medium temp plug....

Mister-E

iTrader: (1)

Hmmm, OK, SH nr 8 is a medium temp plug.
In the neighbourhood, the local HS has Novarossi and OS.
When looking to the temp characteristic of those plugs, can you please indicate what is the order of heat of those plugs.
On top is the hottest and at the bottom the coldest e.g.:

- SH 8
- Novarossi 8
- OS 8

Does the order also applies for plug nr 7??



Thanks a lot in advance for all the advices!

Jason Halvorson

iTrader: (22)

if you have access to os plugs try a os R5 or A5....

RCRacing.com.au

iTrader: (2)

Hi again Mister E

Novarossi Plugs go like this:-
5 - Hot
6 - Medium
7 - Cold
8 - Very Cold
You can get them in a long & short body which means the fillament is either long or short.
The short fillament won't glow as hot as the long fillament so they are kind of like a half way between for example
C5TC Long fillament = hot
C5TF Short Fillament = Medium Hot
and so on...

I'd try running a C6TC or C7TC if it is really hot weather there.
I've changed to a C5TC as it's cold here now due to winter.
Hope this helps.

RCRacing.com.au

iTrader: (2)

Guys can anyone tell me what experience they have had with the Dragon Racing Chassis for the X1-CR FTE?
I've seen them selling on eBay and they look pretty well priced.
Otherwise what is the best aftermarket chassis i can buy that will wear longer & better than the original one?
Thanks guys.

huskerfreak

iTrader: (5)

The best chassis is the original one. What do you me by longer wear?? The only thing that would wear would be the anodizing coming off the bottom from the chassis rubbing against the grown. Really if you are having any other problems like bending the chassis the best thing to keep this from happing is not to hit things.

Jason Halvorson

iTrader: (22)

here is what im running with great luck!!!!!! http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/10108

huskerfreak

iTrader: (5)

Well it is time for me to post since I have had my first official rae day on my X1 FTE. I bought the car used from a local racer and I am glad I did. I managed to place fourth with it on a track that I have never ran on untill today. All my competition was against locals that had a lot of practice and racing on this track. All I have to say is that the car worked vary well. The track conditions were dry dusty rough with grooved up hard pack sections on the track. Needless to say you raced the track more than the competition.

After reading a lot of the posts here and looking at most of the different setups on the Jammin website it is nice that you can have a buggy that you didn't have to throw a bunch of after market parts at. The only thing that I ran on it was the grey Mugen springs and to tell the truth I like the jammin red springs just as well.

Jason Halvorson

iTrader: (22)

Huskerfreak, welcome to the Jammin family, we are here to help....yup the FTE is hooked up from the factory and ready to race....to tell ya the truth my X1CR started life as an rtr and after almost every King Headz part there is my X1CR is a killer ride....

Jason,