Jammin X1 - so close yet so far
#1098
macnkitty - What you're describing as your track is exactly when thinner oil and smaller pistons (more pack) would be better. More corner speed, more direct handling, the car will feel less "lazy", and it'll soak up that one jump, as well as any bumps, better.
#1101
Some help
Hi everybody
I have been runing 200mm since 2000.
Now I will buy a jammin 1/8 buggy.
Can you help me with it?
I need something like hudy set up guide, but for buggy.
You know,
How work the diff?
What is the best basic sep up?
Etc
Thanks in avance
I have been runing 200mm since 2000.
Now I will buy a jammin 1/8 buggy.
Can you help me with it?
I need something like hudy set up guide, but for buggy.
You know,
How work the diff?
What is the best basic sep up?
Etc
Thanks in avance
#1103
Towards the top of this page, there's a setup that should work well as a starting point. The car works really well..the diffs are good, really good.
Setup is not as critical in off-road as it is in touring car. Setup boards aren't really necessary..you just need to find a setup that you are comfortable with driving with the least mistakes, and stick with it.
Setup is not as critical in off-road as it is in touring car. Setup boards aren't really necessary..you just need to find a setup that you are comfortable with driving with the least mistakes, and stick with it.
#1104
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (6)
hi guys,
I just recently got a Jammin' X1CR that already been built.
I was gonna put in the engine and electronics but notice the diff is leaking fluid everywhere, especially the center diff and the front diff.
Should I rebuild the diff before running? And when rebuilding the diff what steps should I follow to prevent this leaking occur again?
Thanks in advance for all the helps.
I just recently got a Jammin' X1CR that already been built.
I was gonna put in the engine and electronics but notice the diff is leaking fluid everywhere, especially the center diff and the front diff.
Should I rebuild the diff before running? And when rebuilding the diff what steps should I follow to prevent this leaking occur again?
Thanks in advance for all the helps.
#1105
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
i hope my diffs dont start to leak. i just got my kit yesterday. the hardest part so far has been building the diffs. i made sure to install the paper gasket included. by the way, what is the set screw for that is on the side of the diff case? is that so you can take out the set screw and drain the fluid, refil with new? i don't understand why it is there. also, i see that the kit comes with plastic chassis braces. why? obviously i used the CNC ones, but why are they included? also, why are the plastic bushing required in the directions for building the steering bellcrank, but they include metal ball bearings also? just a few questions of mine.
#1106
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (6)
yeah...the fluid is leaking around the set screws on mine so I am stumped. I have not idea what the plastic chassis braces is for neither. Mine has already been build so now I am scared to rebuild the diff. Maybe I should just run it with the all the leakings so I at least got a feel of how it run
#1107
Tech Initiate
I also had leaking front and centre diff after building the car. I think it is from overfilling the diff oil which is then trapped on the edges. So on gentle spinning of the diff, it dislodges these extra oil. I had it so bad that the oil actually coated my spur gear After wiping off the leaked fluid and rotating the diff, there was no more oil leaking.
As for the front/rear diff, it had oil around the edges of the gearbox casing. I think it is the same problem.
Another problem; the screws at the bottom chassis, even after I tightened hard (without thread lock in some screws as advised) during the assembly process, a few had gotten loose. One even dropped off from the z-brace. I think you should tighten the screws again when the chassis is heated up by the engine.
As for some of the extra plastic parts eg chassis braces, they are included becos' they are used for the RTR versions. For the Pro version, they just added in the Optional parts in separate bags and they also included RTR parts.
As for the front/rear diff, it had oil around the edges of the gearbox casing. I think it is the same problem.
Another problem; the screws at the bottom chassis, even after I tightened hard (without thread lock in some screws as advised) during the assembly process, a few had gotten loose. One even dropped off from the z-brace. I think you should tighten the screws again when the chassis is heated up by the engine.
As for some of the extra plastic parts eg chassis braces, they are included becos' they are used for the RTR versions. For the Pro version, they just added in the Optional parts in separate bags and they also included RTR parts.
#1109
using the plastic chassis braces
could give a more forgiving car on a very bumpy track or in the beginning
due to more possible chassis flex
could give a more forgiving car on a very bumpy track or in the beginning
due to more possible chassis flex