arghh

talking about spring, what do you think about the rear shock spring. does it look like not long enough. the adjustable shock screw have to screwed at least 1/2" - 3/4" to get normal ride height.. the front spring got no issue.

speedy2

iTrader: (1)

IS THE X1CR EASY TO WORK ON?
like the xb8...

W.E.D.Jim

iTrader: (17)

arghh, I haven't had a problem with spring length. As long as there are threads left and your at the proper ride height I wouldn't worry about it.

Speedy2, ya, it is nice to work on, since the center diff seperates in two halves, the diffs come out of the cases pretty easy, etc. All the maintenance stuff is very similar to most buggies really........................Jim

arghh

are the xb8 easy to work on like the x1cr...????

speedy2

iTrader: (1)

yes i think so
xb8 must be the easiest buggy to work on
all parts go out/together very swiftly

W.E.D.Jim

iTrader: (17)

Actually, all the buggies i've owned are so similar it is silly to try and think one has any advantage in the repair and maintenance dept. Kyosho, Mugen Hyper 7, X1, Crono, etc and every one of them it was 4-6 screws to remove any diff, 4 screws hold on each shock tower, two hold on each shock, etc.

The only thing really seperating most of the buggies out today is the help available from the team, parts availability, and price..........imo, Jim

better

iTrader: (3)

not true, engine placement, dif size, how much adjusting, weight!!!, wheel base width, how tight the steering is, what mix of plastic used, are just some of the things that change from car to car better or worse. I think weight is a big difference especially in the driveline.

W.E.D.Jim

iTrader: (17)

better, "not true" in your opinion.

There is a maximum legal width for any brand of car.

Weight is only a factor if you are over the legal minimum and are not sacrificing durability.

Driving and finishing are still the single most important ingredients, so, in MY opinion, everything else is small potatoes.

Durability has been very similar on the 6 or so different brand 1/8th buggies i've owned. Each had it's own querks. All also had "tight" steering, small diffs, more adjustments then 90% of R/C racers know what to do with, etc.

Engine placement is still up in the air. All the major manufacturers have been moving the engine around over their last couple generations, Kyosho, Mugen, Crono, etc. It would make it difficult to argue which is the best buggy, when the manufacturers are still trying different things on each generation, so they might not know?

As far as materials, Softer arms equals less handling, more durability, stiffer materials for suspension the opposite. Everyone hardens their diff gears, outdrives, etc, drill blank steel for shock shafts, CNC parts are tuff and cool too, mostly all basic stuff that hasn't changed much lately.

Besides, my post was in regard to ease of maintenance and repair mostly...., Jim

mmotox17

Hey I was wondering if anyone here is an aggressive 1/8 scale driver? and if so if they could get me there set up. Right now I am running a TTR S3. I have 2 of these buggies and a guy approached me today wanting to trade for his brand new X1-CR. After a couple laps I could tell the buggy had potential but the set up was just not me. He had jammin blue springs all the way around, 571 diff fcr respectively. I forgot to ask what oil in shocks. I do know he had all the aluminum blocks that come in the kit installed. His setup was front bones level rear bones below level. Tires were worn out Panther Komodos front equally worn Panther Komodo II's rear. The buggy pushed alot mid way through corner, and surprisingly I would say less forgiving then my delta box TTR chassis. He was under motored in comparison to my TTR though as he was running a O.S. RG in comparison to my Crono RS7 mated to an O.S. 2050. Also the brake bias was totally off with I would say probably 55 front/45 rear, here again not my driving style at all.

The track I run is dirt that holds up very well but gets duffy and fairly loose. It can get pretty bumpy in an 1/8 scale main. I really dont like the push that the X1 has in the corners, if this can be dialed out I will most likely make the trade. If not I am really not impressed with the buggy. Like I said I am a fairly aggressive driver, I believe they put berms up so I dont have to slow down as much through corner and I believe in using them. As aggresive a driver as I am also smooth. So I was just wondering with my driving style if this buggy could fit me. Thanks everyone for your help in advance.
Matt

slrguy

go here: http://www.jamminproducts.com/x1cr.htm and download the setup sheets for the team drivers. Another good starting point is the factory setup of 3-5-1 and 30wt all around for the shocks.
Maybe the push is due to the worn out tires?

arghh

why not u set-up first the buggy as u wish with ur driving style and put ur comment after that.. as u mention, that is other guys car, so that the setting and driving style must be not same as u

mmotox17

Sl- Maybe the push is due to the worn out tires? Maybe it is but I seen this guy with brand new crimefighters doing the same thing. I drove it with the worn out panther tires.

Arghh- Your right, I should set up the buggy first and then make a comment. I was merely asking someone familiar with the X1 if they have this problem.

I dont like push in the corners, becuase that means something is not right. And if something is not right, that means you are going to have to compensate for it in a race, which is going to make you slower. For instance on my TTR I had to cut every knob off the outside row and 45 degree the 2nd row on all my tires, just to get the feel that I wanted in the corners.

speedy2

iTrader: (1)

I also like the rear to follow like on rails whatever happens, not loose
and the steering to be very aggressive at the same time

is the x1cr like that ????

slrguy

mmotox17: Since you don't really know the shock oil wt. and have only been told the diff. wts. I would rebuild the shocks and the diffs and put them back to stock. The stock setup is very competitive and a good place to start. A while back, Aaron Waldron post his ultra competitive setup that used a 5-3-1 diff setup and 35 F and 27.5 R shock setup. This is really close to stock. It also sounds like the front may be too high if you're running bones level. I run arms level f & r (this causes the bones to angle up from the center) and don't have the problem you describe.

mmotox17

slrguy- thanks buddy. Do you run the X1? I like the lighter diff oils idea, it might tame the wheel spin in the duff with my RS7. I will try that. But I am concerned about the light shock oils. In my TTR I am running 50fr and 40rr. The guys with the 777's at my track are running like 40/30 and 50/35. What springs are being used with the 35/27.5 set up? I do like how the 571 diff setup acted on my TTR, really put the power down, as long as you were controlled with the trigger finger. Can you tell me what anti-squat block is being used, as well as rear toe block. Even shock positioning and pistons would be a great help. The media is going to be at the track at the next race and I dont want to look like a clown in the 1/8 scale class. I am almost considering setting the X1 on the back burner and running my other TTR. But it would be sweet to go out and podium with a buggy that hasnt proven itself. Just need to get the setup dialed and know what to expect.