the buggyman

iTrader: (1)

the problem with the stock pins seem to occur when running other then Ofna rims. The inside of the rims web (support bars) rubs the e clips off when the wheels are fully turned every run. Mine did this with shoe goo. The two must and only haves for this car is the one piece motor mount (worth every cent) and the captured hinge pins. I have now run four races with these upgrades and practiced several times and nothing on the car has broke. I did have bad luck today and must have landed on a rock because I had a punctured hole in the chasis just behind the motor. I took a hammer and straighted it back out and it is fine, ended up taking third in the A.

W.E.D.Jim

iTrader: (17)

lmslms, for tires I like Crimefighters in M2, With the outer row of pins clipped down to about 20% inside and outside rows......or some of the Treadz work well also, especially on loamy or muddy tracks. The Jammin tires are also very good, but the molds are sketchy so look for poor pins, etc to be sure you have a good set........Jim

slrguy

To solve the problem of premounted tires on non-Ofna rims, I mounted them on a 10mm bolt with nut and chucked the bolt into drill. You'll need a 10mmx30mm long bolt with nut. Put the bolt into the wheel and lock it down with a nut. Once chucked, I turned the drill on and used a dremel at an angle to grind the outer part of the inside of the rim to match that of the Ofna rim. Problem solved in a matter of minutes. This method works with all non-Ofna rims.

the buggyman

iTrader: (1)

Or you can purchase the captured hinge pins . I posted this on the grid, but was wondering if anyone else was breaking the servo saver posts (#40511)? I have broke like four now and was wondering if anyone else is braking them? if not sure try turning the screw to see if it comes out. If it just spins then it is broke inside.

Aaron Waldron

Niklas - We've been experimenting with turbo plugs and things are looking pretty promising.

Can't wait to get some of the new motors! I've been really happy with the current ones after we got some of the bugs taken care of..basically, the engines took a lot longer to break in than I thought!

slrguy - I think the Jammin' is probably the best car for my driving style. I am running the stock setup, with the shocks moved in one hole, 5-7-2 diff oils, 60-40 and 53's in the shocks. I don't have a setup sheet on the net yet, but I will make one soon.

Sofast - I'm running a hardcoat JP-2. The best thing I've found so far on a rough track is to use the one degree anti-squat block. It doesn't really change the overall balance of the car like a shock change will, but it helps the car float over bumps.

A dremel with a sanding bit can make any rim fit without knocking off e-clips. Just run the sanding wheel around the inner edge of the rim to sand off some material and it'll clear the pins.

Niklas Edlund

Yes, the K2 motors last year where quite tight. Have'nt checked the new ones yet - still need to catch up after the Nurnberg show. They (all versions of K2) are also different in the way that they have a machined piston (no cast alum.). So they need longer warm-up period and also you cant have them run clean in the pits normally as then they will be too lean out on the track. Keep them slightly rich in the pitlane...

Aaron Waldron

Only you crazy Euro's turbo-tune in the pits..haha.

WHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAA!

slrguy

Is that the top or bottom? Which holes for both top and bottom?

warpig

iTrader: (7)

those pit tuners drive me nuts..

Niklas Edlund

So you have your pitman run after the car on the track to tune it...? NO - with a K2 you must leave it on the rich side even if you have it up to temp in the pits. More so then on like a Nova based motor.

"those pit tuners drive me nuts" - so how do you do it then? Just start it up and throw it on the track and come in 5 times in a row to re-tune it? In like Furulund that would take like 5 minutes (fourstroking around the track would do about 45s lap times) and the track warm-up time here is only about 3 minutes. I wouldnt have Magnus scream at me for f*****g up the tuning so he wont have any good track time and get into the groove... It needs to be good within a lap and really good when the heat starts.

No, and I dont use a temp gauge either - only my ears mostly...

W.E.D.Jim

iTrader: (17)

I think a combination of both is really needed. Basic set-up in the pits, then fine adjustments after running on the track........After all, if it runs different after running it on the track(ie, "set it richer in the pits"), which it always will, it may need some adjustments regardless of how close it seemed in the pits.........

As far as 1/8th engines........With my Maxys Modified Mega engine I use a 8mm restrictor to tame it a little and add some fuel mileage, Plenty of HP, almost too much.......ALMOST, hahaha......Jim

Aaron Waldron

slrguy - Ugh..I gotta stop typing when I'm tired.

I move the shocks OUT one hole on the arms.

Niklas - I was laughing at the extreme cases..like Kanai. WAAAAAAAAA shut the carb closed, adjust...WAAAAAAAAA hahaha.

We stupid Americans were calling it "turbo-tuning".

Niklas Edlund

Aha: now I DO understand... But we Europeans call that Japanese turbo-tuning... Before the worlds warm up race in Furulund last spring Kanai showed up at the next door on-road track in Staffanstorp... They needed to brake-in new motors... They started it up and had it on full-throttle with no wheels on the 777 for about 10 minutes... That ought to fix the run-in. Nice to have a motor contract is'nt it? Even better with your name on it also! Not recommended for us mere mortals...

Then Kanai took the car apart for a clean up as there was oil and fuel on the chassi - the car had not been on the track - just on the starter box!

Aaron Waldron

Haha..break her in nice and fast so he can start turbo-tuning!

Must be something we don't know..after all, he has done pretty well in his racing career..haha.

Sgt_Morrow

W.E.D. Jim you got mail.