Jammin X1 - so close yet so far
01-02-2007, 05:19 PM
#2851
thanks man,
i agree with most of your setup, but a few things intrigue me. why should i use so much rear toe when the track is very smooth? don't you use more rear toe to make it more stable? or does it give you more steering too?
also, i don't see the need for 3 degrees of rear camber. the track is smooth as i have said, and will that much camber not take away from my acceleration? i can understand the 3 degree front camber, but must i really go to 3 degrees for the rear?
sorry if i seem offensive, but for the most part your recommended set up looks great.
i will not be getting new FTE kit any time soon, as i only race in a private backyard (but well established) local track, with no more than 10 racers attending at one time. i have slowly been adding on to my buggy's option parts to bring it up to FTE standards, but i just ordered my winter rebuild items, so it'll be a while before i get any NEW hop ups. i don't see the need for the big bore shocks, as the track i race on has two very small jumps and thats it. i don't see the need for the alloy center diff mount, or the rear uprights, as these are areas that i have never seen stressed on buggies around my parts. however, i will say that i should probably get the captured hinge pins and one piece engine mount.
i agree with most of your setup, but a few things intrigue me. why should i use so much rear toe when the track is very smooth? don't you use more rear toe to make it more stable? or does it give you more steering too?
also, i don't see the need for 3 degrees of rear camber. the track is smooth as i have said, and will that much camber not take away from my acceleration? i can understand the 3 degree front camber, but must i really go to 3 degrees for the rear?
sorry if i seem offensive, but for the most part your recommended set up looks great.
i will not be getting new FTE kit any time soon, as i only race in a private backyard (but well established) local track, with no more than 10 racers attending at one time. i have slowly been adding on to my buggy's option parts to bring it up to FTE standards, but i just ordered my winter rebuild items, so it'll be a while before i get any NEW hop ups. i don't see the need for the big bore shocks, as the track i race on has two very small jumps and thats it. i don't see the need for the alloy center diff mount, or the rear uprights, as these are areas that i have never seen stressed on buggies around my parts. however, i will say that i should probably get the captured hinge pins and one piece engine mount.
01-02-2007, 06:47 PM
#2852
My logic
With the toe plates that's why i suggested the 3 deg as well as the 3.5.
Try less if you have the optional parts and let me know how it goes please.
With the camber you normaly run more camber on the rear than the front.
I'm running 0 degree on the front of my truggy which works great and our track is bumpy.
I do run about 2 degrees front on my buggy but i haven't changed set up since it was smooth.
I will try less front camber this season coming to see how it goes.
With the rear camber if you go less it will be less stable and as your track is smooth i'm guessing it is a fast track so more stability will help there (my reasoning).
Also most on road cars run camber and their track is smoother than yours.
Try this excersize... put your thumb and pointy fingers on the top of the shock towers and roll the chassis to the left or right and look at what the outside tires do with 3 degree camber.
If the car is hard in a turn the outside tires stand up straight and then also get more traction through the turns which is a lot more important than on the straight.
If you run less camber the tires roll to the outside of the grip and either bite in and traction roll you or just slip.
Most straights go for 2-3 seconds but you will have lots of corners to get around and you will do faster laps if you can get trough the corners faster than just power up the straight 1/10th of a second quicker.
With the big bore shocks the biggest difference is that the pistons are made from teflon not plastic/nylon.
They work alot smoother and better than the 3.0mm shocks on the Pro kit and they are also a lot stronger shafts in case of crashes or hacking.
I can vouch for this as i converted my Pro to a FTE and that was the first thing i put on it and it made about 2-3 seconds a lap difference.
That's a lot over 8 lap in 5 minutes.
You will be very impressed with the big bore shocks if you tried them.
Remember it's the world's top X1 drivers that told Hong Nor to go to the 3.5mm big bore shocks with teflon pistons.
What tires are you running?
Try some Panther Komodo Dragons 1 or 2 as they work exceptionally well on low to medium traction tracks and work well on high traction.
If you have medium to high grip then try the Panther Chameleon 1 or 2 as they get incredible grip on medium to high traction surfaces.
You will notice 20%+ corner grip with these tires on the right surface!!!
Tires will make up for 90% of your handling believe it or not.
So anyway i hope i have helped.
Try less if you have the optional parts and let me know how it goes please.
With the camber you normaly run more camber on the rear than the front.
I'm running 0 degree on the front of my truggy which works great and our track is bumpy.
I do run about 2 degrees front on my buggy but i haven't changed set up since it was smooth.
I will try less front camber this season coming to see how it goes.
With the rear camber if you go less it will be less stable and as your track is smooth i'm guessing it is a fast track so more stability will help there (my reasoning).
Also most on road cars run camber and their track is smoother than yours.
Try this excersize... put your thumb and pointy fingers on the top of the shock towers and roll the chassis to the left or right and look at what the outside tires do with 3 degree camber.
If the car is hard in a turn the outside tires stand up straight and then also get more traction through the turns which is a lot more important than on the straight.
If you run less camber the tires roll to the outside of the grip and either bite in and traction roll you or just slip.
Most straights go for 2-3 seconds but you will have lots of corners to get around and you will do faster laps if you can get trough the corners faster than just power up the straight 1/10th of a second quicker.
With the big bore shocks the biggest difference is that the pistons are made from teflon not plastic/nylon.
They work alot smoother and better than the 3.0mm shocks on the Pro kit and they are also a lot stronger shafts in case of crashes or hacking.
I can vouch for this as i converted my Pro to a FTE and that was the first thing i put on it and it made about 2-3 seconds a lap difference.
That's a lot over 8 lap in 5 minutes.
You will be very impressed with the big bore shocks if you tried them.
Remember it's the world's top X1 drivers that told Hong Nor to go to the 3.5mm big bore shocks with teflon pistons.
What tires are you running?
Try some Panther Komodo Dragons 1 or 2 as they work exceptionally well on low to medium traction tracks and work well on high traction.
If you have medium to high grip then try the Panther Chameleon 1 or 2 as they get incredible grip on medium to high traction surfaces.
You will notice 20%+ corner grip with these tires on the right surface!!!
Tires will make up for 90% of your handling believe it or not.
So anyway i hope i have helped.
01-02-2007, 07:06 PM
#2853
With the rear camber if you go less it will be less stable and as your track is smooth i'm guessing it is a fast track so more stability will help there (my reasoning).
i see what you mean with the camber, and i'm sure the straight on my track is nothing compared to the one on yours (because mine is so short)! and i can see why i should probably get the big bores too. once i find enough $$$ i will probably grab some with the stiff springs.
i typically run Crime Fighter XTR tires all around. i think tires are some of the most expensive things in RC, so i tend to get the hard compounds to last me a while. also, because my track generally has good traction, i don't see the need for a soft compound that will give me good grip for 5 races. the track can get hard and dusty too, and i wish i had softer tires. with that being said i will probably get some of those Komodo dragons for when the traction is poor, and go back to the CFs when the track becomes stickier.
thanks for all your continuing help.
01-02-2007, 08:11 PM
#2855
Set-Ups
Well i guess we could debate over what you can gain and lose all day but just try some different camber set ups and let me know how you go.
I am very curious to know as my track is bumpy not smooth so we can compare notes for future improvement.
If you get the Big Bore shocks then the first thing is to ditch the red rubber seals with the felt in them as they are useless.
Get some Kyosho or Mugen Boots or even the ones from the X1-Pro shocks are great (what i run) as the standard red ones let dirt get in and stuff your shafts and oil seals within 2-3 race meets.
Also you can get some round o-rings for the seals as the standard ones have a flat edge on the outside of the o-ring which doesn't seal as well.
The round edges help put more pressure on the shaft to stop oil leaking.
They are from the Speed 9.5 kit
Just some tips i got from some factory drivers here.
Jfc_tech thanks for adding our info to your blog just leave your money on the fridge as you leave 
Also you have some dead links in your signature.
I am very curious to know as my track is bumpy not smooth so we can compare notes for future improvement.
If you get the Big Bore shocks then the first thing is to ditch the red rubber seals with the felt in them as they are useless.
Get some Kyosho or Mugen Boots or even the ones from the X1-Pro shocks are great (what i run) as the standard red ones let dirt get in and stuff your shafts and oil seals within 2-3 race meets.
Also you can get some round o-rings for the seals as the standard ones have a flat edge on the outside of the o-ring which doesn't seal as well.
The round edges help put more pressure on the shaft to stop oil leaking.
They are from the Speed 9.5 kit
Just some tips i got from some factory drivers here.
Jfc_tech thanks for adding our info to your blog just leave your money on the fridge as you leave
Also you have some dead links in your signature.
01-02-2007, 08:27 PM
#2857
Oh Yeah if you have good grip then try the Chameleons as they wear twice as good as the Crime Fighter XTR's!
Bigger chunky blocks are harder to wear even in a medium soft compound.
I've run a set for about 6 race meets mor more which i now use for practice tires.
Bigger chunky blocks are harder to wear even in a medium soft compound.
I've run a set for about 6 race meets mor more which i now use for practice tires.
01-05-2007, 01:25 AM
#2860
seem many changing camp.. so who's left on jammin camp for 2007..
01-05-2007, 01:38 AM
#2861
Like they say... "The Grass is always Greener on the other side of the Fence"...
Until you get there and find there's lots of weeds
I'm still in the Hong Nor Camp and will be for a long time.
They seem to do a lot of improvements all the time to stay in the top.
What more could you ask for?
I'm selling mine to get new kits not to switch camps.
Until you get there and find there's lots of weeds
I'm still in the Hong Nor Camp and will be for a long time.
They seem to do a lot of improvements all the time to stay in the top.
What more could you ask for?
I'm selling mine to get new kits not to switch camps.
01-07-2007, 03:28 PM
#2865
Originally Posted by macnkitty2002
if the springs are too long, then the shocks are probably too long as well.
by the way, why would you want to change to Mugen shocks? they aren't even threaded.
by the way, why would you want to change to Mugen shocks? they aren't even threaded.
the fronts fit the rear but thats it. oww well. 