Hot Bodies D8 Tips/Set-up's
06-21-2011, 11:23 AM
#46
Hi guys, I've been reading this thread intently as I have a D8 coming 
I guess all these setups are for your dirt tracks over there.... does anyone have a good setup for grass? I guess it would be about as bumpy as an average to rough dirt track over there.
PS: - I haven't seen a D8 yet but why are we gluing the diff cases down to the chassis with silicone? Aren't they sealed like all others?
I guess all these setups are for your dirt tracks over there.... does anyone have a good setup for grass? I guess it would be about as bumpy as an average to rough dirt track over there.
PS: - I haven't seen a D8 yet but why are we gluing the diff cases down to the chassis with silicone? Aren't they sealed like all others?
06-24-2011, 05:57 PM
#48
On the grass I run pretty much the same setup as dirt. 5-7-3 diffs, 35wt shock oils, 1.4 pistons. Gray springs front, white rear. Long camber links front and rear. Reduce rear droop at start of day and increase as grass gets ripped up and surface gets bumpy throughout the day.
Are you at Radio Rally?
06-28-2011, 06:09 PM
#49
Hey guys - still thinking about buying a D8 but the driveshaft problem puts me off
so what is the fix for the CVD's? Well first of all is it a real problem? - if you build them well and they last 2 yrs before falling apart that is OK, but random destruction early on is not so good lol
Somebody said Mugen dogbones - but do you have to replace hubs also?
I saw Hara ed'n shafts on eBay and they look to be conventional dogbones not CVD's so can i just buy them?
so what is the fix for the CVD's? Well first of all is it a real problem? - if you build them well and they last 2 yrs before falling apart that is OK, but random destruction early on is not so good lol
Somebody said Mugen dogbones - but do you have to replace hubs also?
I saw Hara ed'n shafts on eBay and they look to be conventional dogbones not CVD's so can i just buy them?
06-28-2011, 07:45 PM
#50
Hey guys - still thinking about buying a D8 but the driveshaft problem puts me off
so what is the fix for the CVD's? Well first of all is it a real problem? - if you build them well and they last 2 yrs before falling apart that is OK, but random destruction early on is not so good lol
Somebody said Mugen dogbones - but do you have to replace hubs also?
I saw Hara ed'n shafts on eBay and they look to be conventional dogbones not CVD's so can i just buy them?
so what is the fix for the CVD's? Well first of all is it a real problem? - if you build them well and they last 2 yrs before falling apart that is OK, but random destruction early on is not so good lol
Somebody said Mugen dogbones - but do you have to replace hubs also?
I saw Hara ed'n shafts on eBay and they look to be conventional dogbones not CVD's so can i just buy them?
The driveline does not use double dog bones. The front driveshaft uses a CVD and dogbone. Some replace the front driveshaft with a DCJ driveshaft.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ve-Shaft-Set-1
I don't believe anyone can get 2 years out of any CVD driveshaft. Just isn't going to happen unless the vehicle is a shelf queen.
06-29-2011, 06:48 PM
#51
sorry, by two years I meant at my useage which is racing once a month and maybe a 1hr of tune / setup / practice in between ......... so maybe about 5 tanks every fortnight. I would hope to get 2 years out of every part on a buggy, except for obvious consumables like bearings.
Seems real annoying that the one weak part is the bit you can't see, so failures are completely unpredictable and can happen halfway thru a race..... unless you rebuild them all the time just to be safe.
What is realistic life of D8 CVD's, if greased and with boots on, with no preventative maintenance? Need to figure out if they get stripped and inspected after every meet, or every 10 meets...?
Seems real annoying that the one weak part is the bit you can't see, so failures are completely unpredictable and can happen halfway thru a race..... unless you rebuild them all the time just to be safe.
What is realistic life of D8 CVD's, if greased and with boots on, with no preventative maintenance? Need to figure out if they get stripped and inspected after every meet, or every 10 meets...?
06-29-2011, 07:37 PM
#52
This extends the life of them, if you don't mind spending money on option parts then i'd suggest WCE parts. These would replace the rear CVD's that tend to bend or break due to increased droop. Some people put small pieces of fuel tubing in the rear outdrives to help keep them from falling out.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Drive-Shaft-1
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Drive-Shaft-1
06-29-2011, 08:38 PM
#53
sorry, by two years I meant at my useage which is racing once a month and maybe a 1hr of tune / setup / practice in between ......... so maybe about 5 tanks every fortnight. I would hope to get 2 years out of every part on a buggy, except for obvious consumables like bearings.
Seems real annoying that the one weak part is the bit you can't see, so failures are completely unpredictable and can happen halfway thru a race..... unless you rebuild them all the time just to be safe.
What is realistic life of D8 CVD's, if greased and with boots on, with no preventative maintenance? Need to figure out if they get stripped and inspected after every meet, or every 10 meets...?
Seems real annoying that the one weak part is the bit you can't see, so failures are completely unpredictable and can happen halfway thru a race..... unless you rebuild them all the time just to be safe.
What is realistic life of D8 CVD's, if greased and with boots on, with no preventative maintenance? Need to figure out if they get stripped and inspected after every meet, or every 10 meets...?
06-29-2011, 09:20 PM
#54
I never said anything was weak.
I am researching before I buy, and it seems that the D8 CVD's no not last as long than other brands, so I asked if it is really a problem.
I am researching before I buy, and it seems that the D8 CVD's no not last as long than other brands, so I asked if it is really a problem.
06-30-2011, 05:10 AM
#55
sorry, by two years I meant at my useage which is racing once a month and maybe a 1hr of tune / setup / practice in between ......... so maybe about 5 tanks every fortnight. I would hope to get 2 years out of every part on a buggy, except for obvious consumables like bearings.
Seems real annoying that the one weak part is the bit you can't see, so failures are completely unpredictable and can happen halfway thru a race..... unless you rebuild them all the time just to be safe.
What is realistic life of D8 CVD's, if greased and with boots on, with no preventative maintenance? Need to figure out if they get stripped and inspected after every meet, or every 10 meets...?
Seems real annoying that the one weak part is the bit you can't see, so failures are completely unpredictable and can happen halfway thru a race..... unless you rebuild them all the time just to be safe.
What is realistic life of D8 CVD's, if greased and with boots on, with no preventative maintenance? Need to figure out if they get stripped and inspected after every meet, or every 10 meets...?
06-30-2011, 06:40 AM
#56
Hello Mark,
The CVD issue seems to have been hit or miss early on. I have some of the first kits made available and based on your exact statement of maintanance: no problems to date.
I have replaced diff outdrives prior to cvd's due to wear.
I run on high bite tracks which place more punishment overall than normal with no issues.
Have fun and dont fix it till it breaks.
The CVD issue seems to have been hit or miss early on. I have some of the first kits made available and based on your exact statement of maintanance: no problems to date.
I have replaced diff outdrives prior to cvd's due to wear.
I run on high bite tracks which place more punishment overall than normal with no issues.
Have fun and dont fix it till it breaks.
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