protecting a new body?
12-05-2009, 01:25 PM
#1
protecting a new body?
all my old bodies suffer from major cracks, and breaks, (mostly due to my driving). i have heard of guys putting killer tape inside the body to keep it from cracking. does this help or is there some other methods out there? or is it just the cheap stock shell. I dont want to thrash my new jconcepts shell. 1/8 truggies are hard on bodies.
12-05-2009, 01:36 PM
#2
use fiber glass tape i belive thats what it is,if u use diffrent kind of tapes
and put to much on it will make the body pretty heavy,and small amounts
of shoe goo
and put to much on it will make the body pretty heavy,and small amounts
of shoe goo
12-05-2009, 04:04 PM
#7
When you cut out your body make shure all of your cuts have rounded corners to them.
I use threaded shiping tpae on my bodies sometime when they start you come apart.
I use threaded shiping tpae on my bodies sometime when they start you come apart.
12-05-2009, 05:07 PM
#8
dremel the edgses of the inside cuts so they are nice and smooth. around the nose of a buggy or front fender of a truggy use drywall tape and shoo goo. aafter the body has dried overnight the shoo goo won't kill the paint. i use ca drops to hold the tape down then shoo goo over it like spreading peanutbutter. also i use a small square of it around body post holes and in the truggy flatbed area. my bodies usually last as long as i like them and they last long into their basher body life as well.
12-05-2009, 07:59 PM
#9
Tech Rookie
keep them clean
i use pledge on my body and when the day is over the dirt comes off with no problem.. and keeps it shinny
12-05-2009, 08:00 PM
#10
Tech Rookie
12-05-2009, 09:08 PM
#11
Tech Master
The fiber tape looks like thick packing tape & has fiberglass strands in it. All the ideas so far are fairly common & I do almost all of them. Very light on the Exacto when cutting out your pain,all corners & holes rounded with a dremel,I go so far as to sand all edges smooth with very fine wet-n-dry.I use fiberglas reinforced tape where body hits rock guards & heat reflactive tape where pipe hits(mostly on buggy). I think the most important thing I do is make the body post holes really elongated & if you can figure a way to use those Mugen flexable body posts ,even better. If you can handle cutting the rear of the body short to stop in front of the rear shock tower that makes the body last 3X longer.When the corners & wheel wells crack plastic drywall tape & shoe goo will get another couple month from the body.
12-05-2009, 09:12 PM
#12
dremel the edgses of the inside cuts so they are nice and smooth. around the nose of a buggy or front fender of a truggy use drywall tape and shoo goo. aafter the body has dried overnight the shoo goo won't kill the paint. i use ca drops to hold the tape down then shoo goo over it like spreading peanutbutter. also i use a small square of it around body post holes and in the truggy flatbed area. my bodies usually last as long as i like them and they last long into their basher body life as well.
try a cheap permatex silicone....red heat or the blue electrical stuff either or will work and it goes on a lot smoother then shoe goo....also the drywall patch tape i got has a sticky back side so no need to glue in place.
12-06-2009, 10:36 AM
#14
That's only your 3rd body??? NICE JOB! I just finished painting mine too ( #11 for me ) Don't you think that it looks much better in person than it does in pictures ?
I also use fiberglass drywall tape to fix or re-enforce my bodies and it works great..it gets a little heavy, but it's worth it.
! I just finished painting mine too ( #11 for me ) Don't you think that it looks much better in person than it does in pictures ?I also use fiberglass drywall tape to fix or re-enforce my bodies and it works great..it gets a little heavy, but it's worth it.
12-06-2009, 10:44 AM
#15
I find that the shoe goo attacks certain paints easily and others not so much. for example pactra flourescent green gets lifted easily and pactra silver not so much.
I've found that for the best possible results with shoe goo and fiberglass CLOTH (not the tape), make the patch as small as you can to cover the area - maybe 1/2 inch on either side of the crack and 1/2 inch past the end. its more than enough and its super strong when finished. The smaller the patch ( I find) the less likely it is to lift the paint and fail.
I've reinforced an entire body in the past and it lifted the paint in very large sections - bad news!
If you're protecting the paint only, use other products designed for paint protection ( i think losi and kyosho make something specific). Shoegoo and fiberglass cloth is for crack reinforcement only.
I've found that for the best possible results with shoe goo and fiberglass CLOTH (not the tape), make the patch as small as you can to cover the area - maybe 1/2 inch on either side of the crack and 1/2 inch past the end. its more than enough and its super strong when finished. The smaller the patch ( I find) the less likely it is to lift the paint and fail.
I've reinforced an entire body in the past and it lifted the paint in very large sections - bad news!
If you're protecting the paint only, use other products designed for paint protection ( i think losi and kyosho make something specific). Shoegoo and fiberglass cloth is for crack reinforcement only.