Frank L

iTrader: (148)

Same here. No way for anything to get in the case then

bigjayjay1

iTrader: (86)

That's what I do grease around the opening

sykemike

iTrader: (2)

hey guys, i bought this 811 buggy used [ not team edition], in shimming the diffs, should i go by the manual? i'm missing shims here. also the diffs was slammed full and the sun burst washers are coned. this suxs. i'll be sure to full them up only to the cross pins. is this statement correct? please help guys. done ordered 23.00 dollars of shims. any more advice on shimming would be greatly appreachated thank you.

Niky_Freaky

hi
I ordered the 6, 8 and 10 hole conical pistons, but i dont know how to put them. Conical side up or down?
Thanks in advance

chicky03

iTrader: (1)

First do not assemble the diff with oil in it. Set the diff in both diff case halves one at a time and check the side to side play. if there is play you need to add shims. Do this with no center shaft assembly in the case so the pinion does not keep the ring gear from moving back and forth. I would have one shim on the diff case side and the rest on the ring gear side until there is no side to side play but it the diff still rotates free in the case. After that bolt the case together with the diff inside but still no center shaft assembly. See if the diff still rotates easily and ther is no side to side play. If there is you need to add more shims. If the diff does not spin free take a shim out.

After you do that put the center shaft assembly in with the pinion installed. Use only one shim on the pinion. If you have v1 stuff still use a shim on the pinion but it will be hard to push the pin through the coupler and pinion. This is OK. Now put the whole thing together and check the mesh. If you want to be 100% sure its OK you can bolt it car but that is usually not necessary. If the mesh is too tight take the diff apart and adjust the shims as necessary. The best way to describe the mesh is it will feel notchy but should have very little or no play. It should not be at all, hard to turn. To check the back lash hold the center shaft and move move the ring gear forward and back.

When you get the mesh right then put the oil in the diff and bolt it all back together.

chicky03

iTrader: (1)

Normally conical side down but some guys run it up.

Niky_Freaky

ok thanks! Can you recommend a setup for low grip clay track with jumps that have no landing zone (you have to land flat on the ground). I want it to have more mid corner turn and on power steering . Also the rear low center is coming and +2mm hex and +1mm hex
my setup now is:
Front:
Diff:5k
shocks:400
red springs
6hole 1,3 pistons (Stock)
inserts front 2up
inserts rear 2up
sway bar 2,3
center
diff 5k
rear:
3k
green springs
shock oil 313
6 hole 1,3
inserts 6
sway bar 2,5

Big Will

iTrader: (5)

I ran my buggy for the first time yesterday. I started having some trouble during the main (felt like something was binding). Once to my talbe I could not roll the car forward, only backward and my clutch bell was worn around the front edge. As soon as I loosened the engine to take it out everything freed up. I found that the clutch bell was digging into the chassis and that my center diff now "wobbles" in the diff mount. I mean tons of movment not just bad bearing slop.

Anyone have any ideas?

P.S. I have already figured out I'm getting to much chassis flex. I am running the plastic chassis braces.

chicky03

iTrader: (1)

The clutch bell can hit the chassis but it wont stay like that, it just happens when you are running it over large jumps and such. It probably just rubbed when you were running. The alu braces do help with that.

The diff in the center does some what whobble, it does even when it is new. The more play you have front to back the more it will move all around in general. Make sure the cover is tight.

Are you sure the motor didnt move and thats why the car did not roll? Another reason could be you dont have enough brake pad play and the disk cought the pad a weird way. I have see that happen before.

chicky03

iTrader: (1)

I dont know what ackerman bar you have but the 3 has the most on power steering. Maybe also try a stiffer rear spring. yellow or white and 12 deg castor blocks.

Big Will

iTrader: (5)

The cover is tight. Is this a shimming issue? The engine seemd to be in tightly and mesh seemed fine. If the brakes were hung up wouldn't I have a problem rolling the car forward and backward not just forward?

Niky_Freaky

I am with Opt.3 and have the white springs but with them the car is uncontrollable (cant touch the throttle in corner) .

chicky03

iTrader: (1)

So how then do you need more on throttle steering if you have the setup for that

I would go with something in between what you have and the opt 3 and white springs. Maybe softer rear spring, opt2 or try just laying the rear shocks down.

chicky03

iTrader: (1)

sometimes it rolls one way and not the other when the brakes hang up., It possible it was not that either.

You want the center diff to move back and forth .010" or so. It will still move up and down but it will be less. All of the cars are like that so I dont think that was the problem or why it was locked up.

With out seeing it its hard to say what happened. Maybe your chassis is bent causing the clutch bell to hit all the time?

Big Will

iTrader: (5)

It moves far more than .01" now. Its more like 1/4", in all directions, at this point.
Thanks for the quick replys. I am going to get a new center diff mount and replace some stuff. Maybe even a new chassis will be needed.
I was just wondering if this has happened to anyone else with this buggy.