If you go back in the forum to about page 260 or so I believe thats where alot of guys were talking about their mods for the tray. I have yet had a servo blow on me and I think it's just a matter of insuring you use the rubber gromets that normally come with the servos and insure the servos are mounted off the chassis. I'm using savox servos which have the luxury that they are about 3mm shorter then most std servos so I can still mount the servos low and still have roughly .120" of clearance.

The only other thing I could have possibly done is open the sides of the servo holes in the radio tray to get more side clearance but once again Savox servos are just a tad smaller then the std servos so I've got what I feel is enough.

Conclusion build it right.

I modded mine and put a 3x6 flanged bearing in the rack. I was tired of the pins unscrewing. I polished them and everything. Now I have a long flat head screw going through and a locknut on the other end. I did notice Billy has bearings in the rack at our last state race so maybe gottahaveit was thinking of something else. I don't think its a necessity but I haven't had one come loose yet

I followed the advice of others and haven't had any problems. Here is some pics. In summary, make sure your servo has good clearance between the chassis and bottom of servo, there is no binding, and you run a different thottle return spring. I run one I found in an ink pin.

My linkage layout at neutral.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4133/...e271f05c_m.jpg
IMAG0059 by pjk77, on Flickr

Make sure when you pull the brake linkage out by hand it pops back into place on it own and disengages the brakes. If it doesn't there is some binding. Any binding in the brake and throttle linkage setup could lead to failure.
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1079/...73464f5d_m.jpg
IMAG0060 by pjk77, on Flickr

At full brake your throttle return spring should NOT be fully collasped.
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1125/...5d311343_m.jpg
IMAG0061 by pjk77, on Flickr

Added some fuel tubing here as recommended by another driver on the boards. The thought is when at full thottle if there is any flex in the chassis that might cause the servo to hype extend this would act as a servo saver. Remeber to set your EPA where it doesn't completely open the carb, you only need it to open just past the bore of the venturi.
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1313/...78407342_m.jpg
IMAG0062 by pjk77, on Flickr

You'll need to bend the throttle linkage slightly.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/...45e31e49_m.jpg
IMAG0063 by pjk77, on Flickr

well thank you very much, i will follow the things you wrote here, and i hope to be racing this amazing car pretty soon.

Thanks for the info on the bearing sizes, I hadn't took time to measure yet.

new tray balance
 

:nod::nod:
Mo trust me when I tell you brother you will not believe how balanced the car is with the new tray!!!! Hopefully that data will be shown soon lol ...you will be truly be amazed :tire:

My Bad
 

Your right, I misunderstood...

Ya, if they could just reverse one of the threads on the rack bolts so they both tighten then that would be better. Maybe make the shoulder a little longer so it doesn't bind when the bolts are tight. On mine the passenger side loosens and the drivers side tightens.

no problem. thank you for the business...

Same.

some time next week i will be posting a how to servo tray for you guys

for the guys who ran mugen breaks what mods did you do to them need to know asap thanks

well lets see, we all know the serpent is little nose heavy on the jumps, if i am wrong please do correct me, with the battery in the back which causes more wieght in the ass end, i would say u would land the jump 60/40 on the land which is perfect to me :D

no mds at all, all u have to do is, make sure when u put the tray in, that there is enough clearence from the bottom of the servo to chassis, the serpent has lot of rear end flex, so put the buggy in your hand and flex the ass end and if, and that is if u see the throttle servo hitting the chassin all u have to do is space it up, its called trial and error and set your end points proper

I'm using the Avid Mugen brake discs, I did not have to modify anything. You will have to close the gaps on those plates a little as the Mugen discs are thinner.

I'm probably going to switch to Serpent brakes once they are available.