nuts dropped per say
06-13-2009, 04:04 PM
#16
this may sound silly to some of you. But when you say rod, are you refering to the cone rod or the connecting rod? I have yet to have any issues with the head bolts. I have about 3 gallons on mine and it's running better then ever and still has good compression. So it would be a good idea to replace the rod? I don't want it to go, because i know if it does i will have to get a new engine or P/S and rod.
Yea, it's funny i know. My engine runs great and everybody on here knows what hell i put my poor little vspec through
Yea, it's funny i know. My engine runs great and everybody on here knows what hell i put my poor little vspec through
PS the other thing in your engine is called the Crankshaft
06-13-2009, 04:31 PM
#17
i knew i would look like a idiot. Crankshaft duh!
I have been wodering why the crankshaft didn't look like a cone
I have been wodering why the crankshaft didn't look like a cone
06-13-2009, 04:33 PM
#18
Is thier a way you can inspect your con rod to know if it is overstressed?? THis is how my other engine blew. The rod snapped in half and now it needs a new piston and sleeve
06-13-2009, 05:11 PM
#19
You can tell from the play/tolerance in the crankpin where your rod sits on it..I highly doubt you will be able to tell if it needs replacement, but if you want to give it a shot..You will check to make sure it sits snug on the pin. factory tolorences are slightly snug, and if you can move it up or down, or side to side, that means that the pin hole is stretched or worn. You also need to do the same thing at the other side of the rod where it connects to the wrist pin (piston)You also need to check that the rod has not been stretched which means you need to measure it, but since you haven't measured it when it was new, you will not know what it should be...Send it out Dreaux!!
Last edited by Jaz240; 06-13-2009 at 05:33 PM.
06-13-2009, 05:56 PM
#20
Tech Regular
I've had three Vspecs and never had a rod failure on any of them.Got around 7 gallons from the piston and sleeve.Had one pinched. It's rod showed wear but didn't fail.Never have stripped a head bolt.Are you using some type of threadlock or something?
06-13-2009, 08:15 PM
#21
i had a rod go in this vspec 3/4th of a gallon. after that i put a ninja p/s in it and tko bearings. i pre heated it everytime, at the 2 gallon mark speed rod and brearings 
and pete, tools are fine,its the bolts. when it was new i used proline tools, got 2 out and 2 stripped. when i rebuilt it i put new bolts in. my dad put new bearings in his vspec. different tools same result. now with the new bolts in mine i used a set of craftsman, same thing but all 4 now...... my proline tools dont strip screws so i know there not bad.
and pete, tools are fine,its the bolts. when it was new i used proline tools, got 2 out and 2 stripped. when i rebuilt it i put new bolts in. my dad put new bearings in his vspec. different tools same result. now with the new bolts in mine i used a set of craftsman, same thing but all 4 now...... my proline tools dont strip screws so i know there not bad.
2: When you replace the bearings again, go with TKO's again. The Speed bearings are better than most, but still not as good as TKO.
3: you will need to get the head off to check shimming.
06-14-2009, 01:33 AM
#22
1: there is no reason the head screws should strip. After removing hundreds of head screws(os being a big part) I have never stripped one... ever! Either your tools are complete junk or you are doing something wrong.
2: When you replace the bearings again, go with TKO's again. The Speed bearings are better than most, but still not as good as TKO.
3: you will need to get the head off to check shimming.
2: When you replace the bearings again, go with TKO's again. The Speed bearings are better than most, but still not as good as TKO.
3: you will need to get the head off to check shimming.
these are the only screws i have issues with, i clean all my screws b4 i wrench on them.
and i planned on going with tko bearings just the speed rod
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