Quick Question concerning O.S.
#1
Quick Question concerning O.S.
I was wondering if you can put a O.S. speed rod in a v-spec vzb? Are they compatitible? Same dimensions? differences between each rod? I would like to put a speed rod in my v-spec if possible. Only 7 dollar difference between the 2 anyways.
-Thanks.
-Thanks.
#2
Yup!
#3
#4
i replace my front bearing only when needed. (ie, a leak)
as for the rod.... if you pre-heat the engine before starting it up during break in, i wouldn't worry about it. but, if you don't pre-heat, yes, replace after break in. these are just my opinions and are not meaning to start a debate.
as for the rod.... if you pre-heat the engine before starting it up during break in, i wouldn't worry about it. but, if you don't pre-heat, yes, replace after break in. these are just my opinions and are not meaning to start a debate.
#5
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
yeah around here we use to change the bearings on the 2006 versions..since then the bearings have gotten better...Changing the rod never hurts anytime after break in but is not completely nessecary......unless you have done a lot of cold start up before the p/s has lost its metal pinch
How much fuel to you have through you engine and which version is
How much fuel to you have through you engine and which version is
#6
I just finished with my first gallon through it. Its the 004 version with the 21j carb. I used a heat gun to start my v-spec. I then broke it in with a heavy cloth around the head so the heat would stay inside.
Should I inspect my bearings and rod just to make sure? why would you need to change them after break-in in the first place?
-Thanks again guys
Should I inspect my bearings and rod just to make sure? why would you need to change them after break-in in the first place?
-Thanks again guys
#7
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
I just finished with my first gallon through it. Its the 004 version with the 21j carb. I used a heat gun to start my v-spec. I then broke it in with a heavy cloth around the head so the heat would stay inside.
Should I inspect my bearings and rod just to make sure? why would you need to change them after break-in in the first place?
-Thanks again guys
Should I inspect my bearings and rod just to make sure? why would you need to change them after break-in in the first place?
-Thanks again guys
#8
#10
due to the different location of the oil lube hole..
unless you change your crankshaft to the Speed or Ninja JX version.
Speed rod can be interchanged with the JX rod.
hope this helps!
#11
I just finished with my first gallon through it. Its the 004 version with the 21j carb. I used a heat gun to start my v-spec. I then broke it in with a heavy cloth around the head so the heat would stay inside.
Should I inspect my bearings and rod just to make sure? why would you need to change them after break-in in the first place?
-Thanks again guys
Should I inspect my bearings and rod just to make sure? why would you need to change them after break-in in the first place?
-Thanks again guys
Speed rod won't fit on v-spec? I've heard of MANY people who got it to work, plus the v-spec has an oiling hole in the crank anyway.
#12
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Speed rod is perfectly fine in a standard v-spec with standard v-spec crank. Infact it is a very good upgrade. You will be adding a lube hole, but adding one is actually a positive.
As for when to change, I usually change bearings(to TKO ceramics) and rod in my engines anywhere after break-in to the 3 gallon mark. Some engines will hold metal pinch to about 3 gallons. In this case, I change the rod at that mark to minimize the stress on the new rod. Usually OS motors lose thier metal pinch well before the 3 gallon mark. In this case changing the rod after break-in and around the 1 gallon mark is ideal. Bearings, IMO are nessicary for ANY engine. Go ceramic and be done with it. Bearings fail all of the time, especially cheap stock bearings. It's not worth having a rear bearing let go and take out the whole engine. Spend the $40 on a set of TKO ceramics.
You may be able to save some money by going with the ninja JX rod over the speed labeled rod. They are the exact same part, but the JX is several dollars cheaper. I also like to change wrist pin and clips when I change a rod.
http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=1385
http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=1384
http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=5687
http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=5679
http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...dproduct=10454
Those are the parts I would go with.
#13
WRONG!
Speed rod is perfectly fine in a standard v-spec with standard v-spec crank. Infact it is a very good upgrade. You will be adding a lube hole, but adding one is actually a positive.
As for when to change, I usually change bearings(to TKO ceramics) and rod in my engines anywhere after break-in to the 3 gallon mark. Some engines will hold metal pinch to about 3 gallons. In this case, I change the rod at that mark to minimize the stress on the new rod. Usually OS motors lose thier metal pinch well before the 3 gallon mark. In this case changing the rod after break-in and around the 1 gallon mark is ideal. Bearings, IMO are nessicary for ANY engine. Go ceramic and be done with it. Bearings fail all of the time, especially cheap stock bearings. It's not worth having a rear bearing let go and take out the whole engine. Spend the $40 on a set of TKO ceramics.
You may be able to save some money by going with the ninja JX rod over the speed labeled rod. They are the exact same part, but the JX is several dollars cheaper. I also like to change wrist pin and clips when I change a rod.
http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=1385
http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=1384
http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=5687
http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=5679
http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...dproduct=10454
Those are the parts I would go with.
Speed rod is perfectly fine in a standard v-spec with standard v-spec crank. Infact it is a very good upgrade. You will be adding a lube hole, but adding one is actually a positive.
As for when to change, I usually change bearings(to TKO ceramics) and rod in my engines anywhere after break-in to the 3 gallon mark. Some engines will hold metal pinch to about 3 gallons. In this case, I change the rod at that mark to minimize the stress on the new rod. Usually OS motors lose thier metal pinch well before the 3 gallon mark. In this case changing the rod after break-in and around the 1 gallon mark is ideal. Bearings, IMO are nessicary for ANY engine. Go ceramic and be done with it. Bearings fail all of the time, especially cheap stock bearings. It's not worth having a rear bearing let go and take out the whole engine. Spend the $40 on a set of TKO ceramics.
You may be able to save some money by going with the ninja JX rod over the speed labeled rod. They are the exact same part, but the JX is several dollars cheaper. I also like to change wrist pin and clips when I change a rod.
http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=1385
http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=1384
http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=5687
http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=5679
http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...dproduct=10454
Those are the parts I would go with.
Thanks for all your guys's help. JAMMIN you never cease to amaze me...
#14