EB MODS HEAD BUTTON
#76
Man this is getting complicated 1 dot 2 dots etched v2 over the exaust port 1 shim 2 shims never 2 shims damm at least I follow instructions well. I love your stuff Ed but hats alot to keep track of. What if the dots or v2 aren't over the exaust port is that bad? Cary I'll have to let you do the stuff for me you seem to be on.
#77
Man this is getting complicated 1 dot 2 dots etched v2 over the exaust port 1 shim 2 shims never 2 shims damm at least I follow instructions well. What if the dots or v2 aren't over the exaust port is that bad? Cary I'll have to let you do the stuff for me you seem to be on.
#78
Tech Master
iTrader: (67)
Man this is getting complicated 1 dot 2 dots etched v2 over the exaust port 1 shim 2 shims never 2 shims damm at least I follow instructions well. I love your stuff Ed but hats alot to keep track of. What if the dots or v2 aren't over the exaust port is that bad? Cary I'll have to let you do the stuff for me you seem to be on.
you know me I only read the instructions when all else fails
#80
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Originally Posted by oggietiu
Hi tony, got this from the mugen site. It accurately answered my shimming question. I really made a mistake in shimming cause i used the copper shim 25% nitro and p4. But more than this I thing metal fatigue was the main issue why the piston shattered. Can wait to put this on the speed.
UPDATE!
New V2 (version 2) EB Mod JX-21 Head Buttons
The new V2 head buttons offer the same performance gains as the V1 head buttons but allow for further tuning options. The shimming has changed on the V2 head buttons.
The standard shimming is now one 0.2mm (0.008") aluminum shim for 30% nitro and altitudes under 3500 feet. If you're in higher altitudes (above 3500 feet) and run 30% nitro the deck height is dropped by using the 0.1mm (0.004") copper shim instead. With the V1 head buttons you had to run 40% nitro since you could not drop the deck height.
For extended run times using 20% nitro fuel use the 0.1mm (0.004") copper shim only. Testing has seen an increase of almost two minutes run time. Of course the motor makes less power on 20% fuel but with the performance gains of the head button it can be a nice trade off (especially since 20% fuel is cheaper than 30%).
Ed also recommends the use of a P4 plug due to inconsistencies amongst 30% nitro blended fuels (just because the label reads 30% does not mean it's 30%). Personally I haven't had any issues running the P3 plugs in my JX-21 B01 engine but a very small number of guys have had tuning issues. If you have P3 plugs I would use them unless you see signs of detonation on the plug or have tuning issues. On the dyno, the motor makes better power using the P4 plugs. If you're running 25% nitro fuel, follow the shimming instructions for 30% and use the P3 plugs.
The V2 plugs can be easily identified by two marks machined into the top of the head button.
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ ____
Tony P.
Hi tony, got this from the mugen site. It accurately answered my shimming question. I really made a mistake in shimming cause i used the copper shim 25% nitro and p4. But more than this I thing metal fatigue was the main issue why the piston shattered. Can wait to put this on the speed.
UPDATE!
New V2 (version 2) EB Mod JX-21 Head Buttons
The new V2 head buttons offer the same performance gains as the V1 head buttons but allow for further tuning options. The shimming has changed on the V2 head buttons.
The standard shimming is now one 0.2mm (0.008") aluminum shim for 30% nitro and altitudes under 3500 feet. If you're in higher altitudes (above 3500 feet) and run 30% nitro the deck height is dropped by using the 0.1mm (0.004") copper shim instead. With the V1 head buttons you had to run 40% nitro since you could not drop the deck height.
For extended run times using 20% nitro fuel use the 0.1mm (0.004") copper shim only. Testing has seen an increase of almost two minutes run time. Of course the motor makes less power on 20% fuel but with the performance gains of the head button it can be a nice trade off (especially since 20% fuel is cheaper than 30%).
Ed also recommends the use of a P4 plug due to inconsistencies amongst 30% nitro blended fuels (just because the label reads 30% does not mean it's 30%). Personally I haven't had any issues running the P3 plugs in my JX-21 B01 engine but a very small number of guys have had tuning issues. If you have P3 plugs I would use them unless you see signs of detonation on the plug or have tuning issues. On the dyno, the motor makes better power using the P4 plugs. If you're running 25% nitro fuel, follow the shimming instructions for 30% and use the P3 plugs.
The V2 plugs can be easily identified by two marks machined into the top of the head button.
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ ____
Tony P.
I shimed my engine from this above thread, But im not sure on the the two V2 dots over the rear exhaust port will check this out when i get home. I'm happy with the out come of the head button on the Speed 2(Hara edition) and was looking at getting another for the standard V Spec as well.
#81
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
So by placing the two "dots" over the rear exhaust it will help in economy and power or is the button designed to run like that and say if its at the front your not getting the most out of the button, I was stoked by the gains we got 10min with out fail now.....And power to boot....Actually mated to a Os 2050 and a 15t bell on the 808 it was a missile....
#82
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
It doesn't matter which way the dots are facing when you install the head button. The performance will be the same. But if you run the motor and then take the head button off and go to re-install it you should "try" to face the dots in the same direction. But if you don't the head button will still perform fine. It's more of an OCD thing....LOL
#83
Can i still buy these head buttons?
#84
#87
Tech Addict
iTrader: (74)
I have one still in the package that I would be willing to sell. PM me if interested.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...button-v2.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...button-v2.html
Last edited by Robert Walker; 07-22-2010 at 08:08 PM.