8T 2.0
03-08-2009, 02:44 PM
#1351
heres a link to losi set up finder, all the set ups are good starting points
http://losi.com/RaceCenter/SetupSheets.aspx
03-08-2009, 02:46 PM
#1352
thanks for the help i cant wait for it to get here
03-08-2009, 02:52 PM
#1353
no problem. when you get it get new shock ends and check your servo saver spring, make sure its not to tight, also some say it works others say you have to do the mod, but the pros told me this. the bearings that come in the pro roller suck, switch them out to after market ones, the stock bearings blow fast..
my 2.0 has about 1/2 a gallon on it and this weekend i cleaned and maintenced the truck and all but 2 bearings were bad, so i switched all the bearings to avid
my 2.0 has about 1/2 a gallon on it and this weekend i cleaned and maintenced the truck and all but 2 bearings were bad, so i switched all the bearings to avid
03-08-2009, 05:01 PM
#1355
And, I'm not sure if all trucks are like this, but the fit between the alum. balls and the ball ends is quite loose, I'd say about .005-.008 gap. I'd say the reason for this is because of the stiffer plastic, so the balls can be pressed in easier. The camber can change due to the loose fit, but only about 1 deg. , hardly anything that would be noticed on the track.
03-08-2009, 05:11 PM
#1356
Well I got some run time on my new 2.0 T today. About halfway through the first tank I had the front right shock shaft end pull out.....
I even knew better but I figured I would be hard headed and run it first without replacing them....
. It didn't work. I ended up putting another end on it and limited the droop on all 4 corners to where the shocks weren't the limiting factor and I ran about 4 more tanks through it without any problems. I'm going to go ahead and order some new ends and replace all of them to be safe now.
Other than that the truck drives great. I have a picco p3-28 in it and unlike the first losi truggy this one can actually handle all the power of a .28. I didn't have any issues with the rear stepping out on me at all like the older trucks. The truck really eats up bumps I know that.
I even knew better but I figured I would be hard headed and run it first without replacing them....
. It didn't work. I ended up putting another end on it and limited the droop on all 4 corners to where the shocks weren't the limiting factor and I ran about 4 more tanks through it without any problems. I'm going to go ahead and order some new ends and replace all of them to be safe now. Other than that the truck drives great. I have a picco p3-28 in it and unlike the first losi truggy this one can actually handle all the power of a .28. I didn't have any issues with the rear stepping out on me at all like the older trucks. The truck really eats up bumps I know that.
03-08-2009, 05:46 PM
#1357
thanks again for the help i bought new shock ends and aluminum servo saver arm when i ordered but being i bought a modded p5xst from brian the bearings will have to wait
03-08-2009, 09:33 PM
#1358
Well, go back and you'll see the discussion was about the threads, not the ball. You said anodizing was only microns thick, well ,some types are, but hard coat can be up to .002, which can make a good thread bad after anodizing.
And, I'm not sure if all trucks are like this, but the fit between the alum. balls and the ball ends is quite loose, I'd say about .005-.008 gap. I'd say the reason for this is because of the stiffer plastic, so the balls can be pressed in easier. The camber can change due to the loose fit, but only about 1 deg. , hardly anything that would be noticed on the track.
And, I'm not sure if all trucks are like this, but the fit between the alum. balls and the ball ends is quite loose, I'd say about .005-.008 gap. I'd say the reason for this is because of the stiffer plastic, so the balls can be pressed in easier. The camber can change due to the loose fit, but only about 1 deg. , hardly anything that would be noticed on the track.
I know the screws you are talking about. i got a batch of them too and my new drivers dont fit in them. i had to throw them all out.
03-09-2009, 04:41 PM
#1359
A Main Hobbies now has the 5-40x7/8" BH screws in stock (perfect for the camber link screws). Also, the droop screws that go into the chassis, body mount posts, alum bearing inserts, and other 2.0 parts.
03-10-2009, 03:25 PM
#1360
I was just going through mine, locktiting everything and noticed that both front CVD's where the sit in the diff cups are cracked.
do the 1.0 CVD's fit the new one or are they to short because they extended the arms?
do the 1.0 CVD's fit the new one or are they to short because they extended the arms?
03-10-2009, 03:27 PM
#1361
I would say that should still fit the rear and front CVD's since they arent to much extended....just be a little bit shorter but not much..good enough anywayz....but of course the rear Center CVD needs to be changed to the 2.0 if u get the chassis.
03-10-2009, 03:35 PM
#1362
No the 2.0 front and rear driveshafts are 15mm longer than the 1.0. They are NOT compatible. I know they had problems with the 2.0 buggy shafts being cracked but this is the first I have heard of the truggy ones cracking. Call up Horizon they should send you new ones. The only driveshaft on the new truck that is 1.0 compatible is the front center shaft. All the rest are longer.
03-10-2009, 03:57 PM
#1363
No the 2.0 front and rear driveshafts are 15mm longer than the 1.0. They are NOT compatible. I know they had problems with the 2.0 buggy shafts being cracked but this is the first I have heard of the truggy ones cracking. Call up Horizon they should send you new ones. The only driveshaft on the new truck that is 1.0 compatible is the front center shaft. All the rest are longer.
X2
03-10-2009, 05:33 PM
#1364
Tech Rookie
Talking about the driveshaft.
In my old 1.0 after a season of reacing I realiced that all the dogbonds of the driveshaft were really wear.. I was happy when I heard that the 2.0 came with new driveshaft, but I notice that the front center driveshaft is the same as the 1.0. and after a single race I notice a lot of wear there, comparing it whit the one in the rear..
Is there any mod..??anyonelse saw this..
Im using the mach 427 very rich, so I cant imagine what will happend whit a lean engine
In my old 1.0 after a season of reacing I realiced that all the dogbonds of the driveshaft were really wear.. I was happy when I heard that the 2.0 came with new driveshaft, but I notice that the front center driveshaft is the same as the 1.0. and after a single race I notice a lot of wear there, comparing it whit the one in the rear..
Is there any mod..??anyonelse saw this..
Im using the mach 427 very rich, so I cant imagine what will happend whit a lean engine
03-10-2009, 06:27 PM
#1365
Talking about the driveshaft.
In my old 1.0 after a season of reacing I realiced that all the dogbonds of the driveshaft were really wear.. I was happy when I heard that the 2.0 came with new driveshaft, but I notice that the front center driveshaft is the same as the 1.0. and after a single race I notice a lot of wear there, comparing it whit the one in the rear..
Is there any mod..??anyonelse saw this..
Im using the mach 427 very rich, so I cant imagine what will happend whit a lean engine
In my old 1.0 after a season of reacing I realiced that all the dogbonds of the driveshaft were really wear.. I was happy when I heard that the 2.0 came with new driveshaft, but I notice that the front center driveshaft is the same as the 1.0. and after a single race I notice a lot of wear there, comparing it whit the one in the rear..
Is there any mod..??anyonelse saw this..
Im using the mach 427 very rich, so I cant imagine what will happend whit a lean engine