Originally Posted by l3asher

They are the same part number, don't see why not.

Originally Posted by HR-1320

I read the pages and knowone actually said or posted how they set this up. So I used the inner hole on my hubs and the new outer lower hole on the tower. I cut 4.88mm off each end of my link to maintain the same camber. Can anyone confirm if that was the setup used by the pros for this new tower. Thanks Btw Hi I'm the new guy.

Originally Posted by Frank L

The 2.0 is a whole different truck. Too many parts are different to even try to make a 1.0 into a 2.0. I have seen guys just do the chassis and rear center driveline and that's a pretty good conversion but it's still not a 2.0. I have had my 2.0 since it came out and I love it. It's a night and day difference. I have a buddy that I race with that finallympicked up a used 2.0 and he can't believe that he waited this long to switch from his 1.0. A good used 2.0 usually goes for 300-350 with some upgrades. I would go for the 2.0. As for the 2.0 body on a 1.0 it has been done but it takes a little doing.

Originally Posted by sicsam

The reason im asking is because i dont want to buy new ones and they look different, the rears do, the front are the same.

Originally Posted by Blackie001

Tried Casey's setup, I don't think it's for me, but I didn't get a good chance to try it out.....

I had my rear right drive shaft pop out of the output cup. The driveshaft end had always been very close to the outside of the cup (on the rear, front is well engaged). It didn't make sense to be the mod as I was still running the same camber. Put the car on the track & it happened again. Found under full arm lift (compressed shock) the pin, when at the bottom of the rotation was basically out. Change back to my original setup & it happened again. The left side JUST stays in, but right.... the diff is correctly shimmed. Now the slot openings are slightly damaged so it comes out fairly easily. Ending up finishing the day with 19mm (that's 3/4" for you guys using the outdated measuring system...) of fuel tube on the shock shaft to control the maximum movement.

Is this a know problem, or is it just me? Another guy at our track, has had the same problem with the front, but not rear. My front shafts are quite well engaged & couldn't pop out.

Any advise would be appreciated.

Pete.

Originally Posted by HR-1320

I read the pages and knowone actually said or posted how they set this up. So I used the inner hole on my hubs and the new outer lower hole on the tower. I cut 4.88mm off each end of my link to maintain the same camber. Can anyone confirm if that was the setup used by the pros for this new tower. Thanks Btw Hi I'm the new guy.

Originally Posted by reggie l.

this is what you do , if you have not moded the rear links to be shorter then you would need to run the links on the inside lower hole on the shock tower and the outer most hole on the hub

if you have did the mod like my self, you will need to run it on the lower out side hole on the tower and the 2nd outer hole on the hub..

then adjust your camber to how you want...

Originally Posted by HR-1320

I allready modded it and installed like I described. And of course located the shocks on the new outer hole at the top of the tower. So I'll just try it and see. I guess I should have did one side first and assembled it and watched the difference throughout the suspension travel to see the effects it made to the camber while in motion.
What are we trying to acheive with this mod? do you want the camber to stay at say 2 deg throughout the travel or do you want more neg camber as the suspension compresses to plant the tire better?

Originally Posted by HR-1320

Well thats all fine and good through the turns but when traction is good and you try to go straight that truck is gonna squat and the tires are gonna lose surface area and then you spin. I hope thats not the case but thats what I'm affraid of.

Originally Posted by reggie l.

this is what you do , if you have not moded the rear links to be shorter then you would need to run the links on the inside lower hole on the shock tower and the outer most hole on the hub

if you have did the mod like my self, you will need to run it on the lower out side hole on the tower and the 2nd outer hole on the hub..

then adjust your camber to how you want...

Originally Posted by Blackie001

Thought some pics might help.




This pic shows the position when lower arms are parallel to the ground.






This shows the position of the right one when the shock is at full compression.


Really don't know how to solve this problem apart from machining up some new outdrive cups & make them about 2mm longer.....


Pete.