Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road
Inferno MP9 thread >

Inferno MP9 thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree1Likes

Inferno MP9 thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-10-2016, 02:30 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Inferno MP9 thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-20-2012, 05:31 AM
  #12511  
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
 
Winner's Circle's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Atlanta, Georgia USA
Posts: 1,196
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by aaron125
As shown on the setup sheet, Cody was running -5 degrees on the rear - pretty much an uheard-of amount of camber, the rear wheels must have been leaned over at quite an angle.
Thanks Aaron. I missed the link to the set-up sheet mentioned a couple of post earlier.

Lee
Winner's Circle is offline  
Old 12-20-2012, 07:46 AM
  #12512  
Tech Regular
 
Retired09's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fear Farm - AZ
Posts: 446
Default

Originally Posted by kyoshoracer77
losiracer77 is know as kyoshoracer77, so i will not get anymore crap about my name.

hahahaha
Understand the kyosho racer part. Is the 77 your age or the age you feel?

Merry Xmas Syd
Retired09 is offline  
Old 12-20-2012, 10:11 AM
  #12513  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
 
1evo RRR Driver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,615
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Retired09
Understand the kyosho racer part. Is the 77 your age or the age you feel?

Merry Xmas Syd
I'm guessing the year he was born, And if that's so your 1st rc car you fell in love with was either a gold pan Rc10. Or a losi Jrx2?
1evo RRR Driver is offline  
Old 12-20-2012, 12:26 PM
  #12514  
Tech Master
iTrader: (65)
 
GMS_Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Palm Harbor
Posts: 1,700
Trader Rating: 65 (100%+)
Default

To the people who have taken the paint off there springs, do you put anything back on there to protect them?
GMS_Racing is offline  
Old 12-20-2012, 01:31 PM
  #12515  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
 
DmonEY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: lenior city, Tennessee
Posts: 403
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

I was wondering what a you tki 3 wood be
Worth. It has Lunsford turnbuckle kit
ko propo switch and the inferno switch
Plate blue aluminum spring cups and the car is about
Two months old and very well taken care of. Thanks for
The info
DmonEY is offline  
Old 12-20-2012, 03:38 PM
  #12516  
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,215
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by DmonEY
I was wondering what a you tki 3 wood be
Worth. It has Lunsford turnbuckle kit
ko propo switch and the inferno switch
Plate blue aluminum spring cups and the car is about
Two months old and very well taken care of. Thanks for
The info
I'm guessing you meant that you'd like to know what the car you mentioned would be worth with the various components you've listed?

If so, anyone who gives you any kind of answer is pulling it out of their arse or just thin air because it's in 100% absolutely impossible to give any kind of meaningful, useful answer without 2 essentially/vitally important pieces of infrmation, those being: a) how much wear and tear is there on the car as a whole and each part individually and b) some pics to see how the previous owner took care (or didn't) of his ride.

Without those 2 very important details, the best you or anyone else could do would be to simply add up the values of the various components as if they were all brand-new or perhaps new with just 2-3 uses of the car. Problem is that what some poeple consider to be "Two months old and very well taken care of" could be just that or could in reality be 6 months old, never cleaned, lubed, checked for broken or worn out parts, etc.

Have you actually seen the car in person or even some pics of the car showing ANY major wear or broken stuff? It's just that in 2 months some racers could just about completely kill a car if they practice 1-2 times/week and race every weekend (they might not have completely ruined the car but definitely some racers could very easily wear out components to the point of needing urgent replacement within 2 months).

If you could post some pics of the car, I'm sure you would receive at least a few meaningful and reliable estimates as to how much the car could be worth and even if it's worth grabbing it or just leaving it for someone else.
aaron125 is offline  
Old 12-20-2012, 04:05 PM
  #12517  
Tech Initiate
 
wazee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Europe
Posts: 46
Default

Is there a cause why no one is running the CVD swing shafts? Like IFW433
I think all kyosho drivers at the worlds were running the normal universal swing shafts - why? Not at good upgrade?
wazee is offline  
Old 12-20-2012, 04:15 PM
  #12518  
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,215
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by wazee
Is there a cause why no one is running the CVD swing shafts? Like IFW433
I think all kyosho drivers at the worlds were running the normal universal swing shafts - why? Not at good upgrade?
My guess is because the captured universals (what you and some others refer to as CVD) are likely no stronger and more than likely, actually a bit wekaer in the universal joint. This is because the size of the cross-pins in the middle of the uni-joint are thicker/have a larger diameter than those in the captured version and perhaps, even more importantly (or more to the point?), if it ain't broke...

Just my thought, even though I do in fact use the captured unis for the front and rear centre driveshafts and sometimes also in the front wheel driveshafts. I've never seen any reason to use them in the rear though.

Just my $0.02.
aaron125 is offline  
Old 12-20-2012, 04:22 PM
  #12519  
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
 
AZRC4Me's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Fullerton, CA
Posts: 1,147
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

+1 to aaron's reply - lots of variables without seeing the car. In the past when I shopped for used cars, if I saw pics of the car and the car was not clean, instant deal breaker. If the guy selling doesn't care enough to clean the car to present it for sale, he ain't cleaning/maintaining it between races either.

I've run the CVDs in the center of the car (front/rear center shafts) before and like them for improved throttle/brake response/feel. They tend to bind more than the universals on the 4 corners which lead to ill-handling effects and because of this, they typically aren't used often on the 4 corners unless the track is super smooth and super high bite. The universals are part of what makes the Kyosho so good in the rough, there is virtually zero binding in them throughout the full suspension stroke. But, if you want rebuild-able components, the option is there. And what aaron just said about them is true as well.

Also, with regards to the Worlds, setups shared from there, etc. Please keep in mind, this was a track unlike any other, and the setups required to run there will work on probably 0.00000001% of tracks in the world, i.e. Speed Paradise and no where else. I wouldn't go putting -5deg camber in the rear cause "it's what Cody ran at the worlds" - it's not the same as 2010 where you could copy the setup and be dialed unfortunately. With that being said, if you look at the overall setup, it's not all that different - the meat and potatoes are still there, just small adjustments in certain directions.
AZRC4Me is offline  
Old 12-20-2012, 08:12 PM
  #12520  
Guest
iTrader: (13)
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: south fulton tn
Posts: 1,175
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by 1evo RRR Driver
I'm guessing the year he was born, And if that's so your 1st rc car you fell in love with was either a gold pan Rc10. Or a losi Jrx2?
my first Car was a TEAM ASSOCIATED TEAM CAR WITH GRAPHITE CHASSIS AND STEALTH TRANNY,AIRTRONICS XL2P, NOVAK T4 OR T5 SPEEDO AND TRINITY GREEN MECHINE AND B&T BLISTER PACKS MATCHED. god that was the days.
kyoshoracer77 is offline  
Old 12-20-2012, 09:17 PM
  #12521  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 83
Default

hi sean,

what can you say with their diff setup 5/6/2? i ran on a small rough dusty technical track and lots of corners and jumps. currently running 553 with codys world setup. Any ideas what will change if i try to ran 562?

Originally Posted by AZRC4Me
+1 to aaron's reply - lots of variables without seeing the car. In the past when I shopped for used cars, if I saw pics of the car and the car was not clean, instant deal breaker. If the guy selling doesn't care enough to clean the car to present it for sale, he ain't cleaning/maintaining it between races either.

I've run the CVDs in the center of the car (front/rear center shafts) before and like them for improved throttle/brake response/feel. They tend to bind more than the universals on the 4 corners which lead to ill-handling effects and because of this, they typically aren't used often on the 4 corners unless the track is super smooth and super high bite. The universals are part of what makes the Kyosho so good in the rough, there is virtually zero binding in them throughout the full suspension stroke. But, if you want rebuild-able components, the option is there. And what aaron just said about them is true as well.

Also, with regards to the Worlds, setups shared from there, etc. Please keep in mind, this was a track unlike any other, and the setups required to run there will work on probably 0.00000001% of tracks in the world, i.e. Speed Paradise and no where else. I wouldn't go putting -5deg camber in the rear cause "it's what Cody ran at the worlds" - it's not the same as 2010 where you could copy the setup and be dialed unfortunately. With that being said, if you look at the overall setup, it's not all that different - the meat and potatoes are still there, just small adjustments in certain directions.
elkapitan is offline  
Old 12-21-2012, 10:00 AM
  #12522  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 128
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Hey guys quick question, front upper arm, on the inner side it has clips to slide the arm front or back. I do not see the setting for this on the setup sheet, what do you guys run?
Speedracer1600 is offline  
Old 12-21-2012, 10:29 AM
  #12523  
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
 
CoryD's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 1,187
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Speedracer1600
Hey guys quick question, front upper arm, on the inner side it has clips to slide the arm front or back. I do not see the setting for this on the setup sheet, what do you guys run?
This is not a setup setting. Just work the front suspension w/o the clips in and see where the arm "settles" then put the clips in accordingly. It's a commonly held MISconception that these clips control the castor. This is NOT the case.

Regards,
CoryD is offline  
Old 12-21-2012, 10:50 AM
  #12524  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 128
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

as I was typing the question I was thinking that the caster is controlled at the hub, why would these control castor. Thank you, thought confirmed!
Speedracer1600 is offline  
Old 12-21-2012, 10:53 AM
  #12525  
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
 
AZRC4Me's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Fullerton, CA
Posts: 1,147
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by CoryD
This is not a setup setting. Just work the front suspension w/o the clips in and see where the arm "settles" then put the clips in accordingly. It's a commonly held MISconception that these clips control the castor. This is NOT the case.

Regards,
^

The only reason those clips even exist is because the upper arm position will change if you change your front kickup, or caster inserts in the c-hub. It's not like the Mugen - our clips are only meant to be shims, not caster adjustments.
AZRC4Me is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.