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Old 10-10-2016, 02:30 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Inferno MP9 thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 07-31-2014, 01:06 AM
  #17626  
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Originally Posted by Winner's Circle
13 degree blocks will make your buggy turn in harder but it will have less steering from the middle of the turn to the exit.

16 degree blocks will make your buggy have less steering entering the turn but it will have more steering from the middle of the turn to the exit.

I personally have always preferred running less caster (13 degree) so that when battling for position going into a turn I have a better chance of getting the position I want due to more steering.

You can further minimize caster by reducing your front anti-dive.

I hope this helps.

Lee

thank you thats help a lot
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Old 08-01-2014, 09:07 AM
  #17627  
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Excited for the new release of the stiffer A-Arms!
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Old 08-01-2014, 09:19 AM
  #17628  
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But are these arms actually stronger? They don't even mention that
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Old 08-01-2014, 09:38 AM
  #17629  
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Sean answered the question.

Last edited by big lou; 08-01-2014 at 12:18 PM.
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Old 08-01-2014, 10:42 AM
  #17630  
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These arms are made from the same material as the hard rear arms IF423H. They're meant to reduce arm flex, nothing more. Think about the hard arms in the same way you would arm stiffners from other brands that you screw into the arms. The outer hinge pin mod was first mentioned on here by Piro, David Ronnefalk's wrench/father about a year ago. Been running my front arms like that for a while now. The outer hinge pin does more to improve the arm durability than the material change. In fact, any time you increase stiffness (reduce flex) in plastic, you make the part more brittle.
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Old 08-01-2014, 11:54 AM
  #17631  
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Originally Posted by AZRC4Me
These arms are made from the same material as the hard rear arms IF423H. They're meant to reduce arm flex, nothing more. Think about the hard arms in the same way you would arm stiffners from other brands that you screw into the arms. The outer hinge pin mod was first mentioned on here by Piro, David Ronnefalk's wrench/father about a year ago. Been running my front arms like that for a while now. The outer hinge pin does more to improve the arm durability than the material change. In fact, any time you increase stiffness (reduce flex) in plastic, you make the part more brittle.



That was my exact thinking Sean. If anything these arms would b more prone to break. So the hinge pins used off the truggy actually makes them stronger? Are these these the front outer hinge pins off the trugg?
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Old 08-01-2014, 02:48 PM
  #17632  
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The new stiffer servo saver spring should be "fun" installing. I had a hard enough time with the stock spring when changing to the aluminum servo saver. I would imagine the stiffer spring would take a miracle to install!
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Old 08-01-2014, 03:03 PM
  #17633  
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Originally Posted by 337_Kyosho
The new stiffer servo saver spring should be "fun" installing. I had a hard enough time with the stock spring when changing to the aluminum servo saver. I would imagine the stiffer spring would take a miracle to install!
I usually put it in a bench vise with a socket and very slowly screw it on while still compressing the spring.
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Old 08-01-2014, 03:09 PM
  #17634  
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Originally Posted by big lou
I usually put it in a bench vise with a socket and very slowly screw it on while still compressing the spring.
Same here. Some scratches on the nut but better than breaking my thumbs hehehe.
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Old 08-01-2014, 03:19 PM
  #17635  
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Originally Posted by big lou
I usually put it in a bench vise with a socket and very slowly screw it on while still compressing the spring.
Will try that! Thnx
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Old 08-01-2014, 03:38 PM
  #17636  
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Originally Posted by rcmoe
That was my exact thinking Sean. If anything these arms would b more prone to break. So the hinge pins used off the truggy actually makes them stronger? Are these these the front outer hinge pins off the trugg?
That's not really what I said. I used brittle in this sense: A material is brittle if, when subjected to stress, it breaks without significant deformation (strain) (borrowed from wiki). Our regular stock arms are brittle, everyone's are. Easy test for this is to connect both broken parts together - they should fit almost exactly, meaning there was no plastic deformation before the part broke. Brittle doesn't mean weak, just as ductile doesn't mean strong.



The above graph can represent 2 materials, one brittle (red) and one ductile (blue). The brittle part is technically "stronger" as it took a higher stress before it broke. But the ductile part absorbed more energy before it broke at a lower stress level.

The hinge pin is the STRR Evo rear outer, IS119-52.5. Will need a 3mm reamer to ream out the rear hole in the arm.
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Old 08-01-2014, 09:08 PM
  #17637  
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Here's a post I put up in Ryan Lutz's thread. Looks like kyosho have 1/2 listened..llol

I will only comment on the cars I have owned :-
Agama - Nope
Associated - By far the worst handling car out the box to get fast.
Durango - Nope
Hot Bodies -Nope but Ty is on rails with his.
JQ - Nope but JQ needs to start getting his parts made in Taiwan and not China. They are letting him down and wasting his fantastic efforts into making his car good.
Kyosho - Presently Own. Best handling car out the box bar none. However, they need to make softer plastic arms to stop them breaking but with carbon stiffeners to stop them flexing.
Losi - Nope mainly because of all the screw and parts I've collected over the years to then go impereal??
Mugen - Have owned and could not find the balance of speed and consistency.
SWORKz - Nope
Tekno - Nope
XRAY - Had XB9 12 and 13 for a year and did not break one part. Fantastic car for finishing races, If only it handled as good as a kyosho
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Old 08-02-2014, 04:22 AM
  #17638  
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Originally Posted by AZRC4Me
The hinge pin is the STRR Evo rear outer, IS119-52.5. Will need a 3mm reamer to ream out the rear hole in the arm.
KYOIS119-41- aren't these the ones you want for the front?
KYOIS119-52.5 -seem to be too long
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Old 08-02-2014, 04:36 AM
  #17639  
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The 52.5 seem definitely to long
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Old 08-02-2014, 08:47 AM
  #17640  
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I think you guys are right, don't have the parts in front of me.
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