Differences in the Kyosho 777 versions
09-13-2007, 04:22 AM
#2
SP1 has a short chassis,handles crappy, the sp2 and wc versions are the same overall just the wc has more option parts, that's why the price wasn't much different when they came out
Oh and the shocks are longer on the 2and wc.
Oh and the shocks are longer on the 2and wc.
09-13-2007, 03:42 PM
#4
If you run the Kyosho buggy I will tell you of 4 must have upgrades:
Mugen shock bladders
Mugen rear Pro-Spec hub carriers(WAY MORE AJUSTABILITY AND DURABILITY)
Mugen rear Pro-Spec camber links (for the out sides)
K Factory or Mugen P-Spec hinge pins
Mugen shock bladders
Mugen rear Pro-Spec hub carriers(WAY MORE AJUSTABILITY AND DURABILITY)
Mugen rear Pro-Spec camber links (for the out sides)
K Factory or Mugen P-Spec hinge pins
09-13-2007, 04:02 PM
#5
Tech Fanatic
It must suck to buy an overpriced buggy and then have to spend another $200 in upgrades. 
09-13-2007, 05:47 PM
#7
Tech Fanatic
The SP2 is selling for less than the Mugen because it's not as good as the Mugen. Certainly not as good as a Losi 8 or even an OCM buggy.
09-13-2007, 07:31 PM
#9
09-14-2007, 01:29 AM
#12
quoteWhat are the main differences between the 777 versions (SP1, SP2, WC) and what handling changes will I notice going from model to model?so what are the big differen.quote
quote
SP1 has a short chassis,handles crappy, the sp2 and wc versions are the same overall just the wc has more option parts, that's why the price wasn't much different when they came out Oh and the shocks are longer on the 2and wc.quote
so if comparing to the Kanai 2?? thanks
quote
SP1 has a short chassis,handles crappy, the sp2 and wc versions are the same overall just the wc has more option parts, that's why the price wasn't much different when they came out Oh and the shocks are longer on the 2and wc.quote
so if comparing to the Kanai 2?? thanks
09-14-2007, 04:26 AM
#13
Only reason I said to use Mugen stuff is it is so cheap to get on flea bay
And you DO NOT need the stuff for a great car! It only makes the car tighter in the long run. Link ends do nothing for perfomance ,just make the car look cleaner and the rear "look" free. Bladders though are a must ,they enhance performance and durrability, as do the rear hub carriers.
I have driven all three major brands ! at the moment my choice would be Losi ,Kyosho , anything else, then Mugen ! Mugens push like a freight train ,and if you get the push out the have no rear traction ,poor design ! Front bumpsteer !! What a shame !
And you DO NOT need the stuff for a great car! It only makes the car tighter in the long run. Link ends do nothing for perfomance ,just make the car look cleaner and the rear "look" free. Bladders though are a must ,they enhance performance and durrability, as do the rear hub carriers.
I have driven all three major brands ! at the moment my choice would be Losi ,Kyosho , anything else, then Mugen ! Mugens push like a freight train ,and if you get the push out the have no rear traction ,poor design ! Front bumpsteer !! What a shame !
09-14-2007, 06:33 AM
#14
Kyosho has addressed the bladder issue by releasing foams to place under the bladder, I haven't tried this yet but I do know that type of volume compensator works in other shocks I've built. So far I have very few problems with bladders ripping because I don't over tighten the shock caps, they work, don't tear and don't leak.
OK, I understand what you meant about cheaper Mugen parts on fleabay. K parts can cost more than retail there (for the good stuff like clutches, unis and diffs).
All in all, I beat many other brands on the track and many other brands beat me. At the end of the day I'm still having fun and haven't spent a small fortune on which buggy d'jour is popular at the moment. Heck, if you're good you can still compete with a MP7.5 on the local level.
OK, I understand what you meant about cheaper Mugen parts on fleabay. K parts can cost more than retail there (for the good stuff like clutches, unis and diffs).
All in all, I beat many other brands on the track and many other brands beat me. At the end of the day I'm still having fun and haven't spent a small fortune on which buggy d'jour is popular at the moment. Heck, if you're good you can still compete with a MP7.5 on the local level.
09-14-2007, 10:47 AM
#15
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
The standard Kyosho shocks are marginal when the bladders are working. The new big bores look really good. I have never seen anyone successfully use the Mugen bladders in the K shocks. The Mugen shocks are 1mm bigger diameter.
The SP1 handles pretty well except when the track gets really slick. If you run the Racers Edge 0.5 degree hub carriers it is good on about any track. The SP2 is longer and has more weight in the rear. It seems to have more on-power and more high speed steering at the cost of low speed steering and turn in compared to the SP1.
The Kanai 2 has a lot of rear traction and turns in well but lacks on-power steering. You need to have the clutch and rear toe in set for the track you are on to go really fast with it. It is the most predictable of the three Kyoshos. Also the handling is a little numb and if things go wrong in the diffs or shocks during a race it has a much smaller effect on the car compared to the 777.
If your MBX5r doesn't steer you need a better servo. At least I found going from a 140oz servo to a 200oz made a big difference on turn in. The setup is also somewhat important. Quite a few run here with great steering and rear traction. In fact it probably has the most rear traction of any car I have driven and that includes the Jammin, both versions of 777, TTR, and Hyper 7.
The SP1 handles pretty well except when the track gets really slick. If you run the Racers Edge 0.5 degree hub carriers it is good on about any track. The SP2 is longer and has more weight in the rear. It seems to have more on-power and more high speed steering at the cost of low speed steering and turn in compared to the SP1.
The Kanai 2 has a lot of rear traction and turns in well but lacks on-power steering. You need to have the clutch and rear toe in set for the track you are on to go really fast with it. It is the most predictable of the three Kyoshos. Also the handling is a little numb and if things go wrong in the diffs or shocks during a race it has a much smaller effect on the car compared to the 777.
If your MBX5r doesn't steer you need a better servo. At least I found going from a 140oz servo to a 200oz made a big difference on turn in. The setup is also somewhat important. Quite a few run here with great steering and rear traction. In fact it probably has the most rear traction of any car I have driven and that includes the Jammin, both versions of 777, TTR, and Hyper 7.