OCM KAOS DOMINATING
04-22-2008, 02:08 PM
#1261
So what and how much did you have to shim the rear diff? Also is anyone havin trouble with dirt getting in the bulkheads that house the front and rear diff's?
04-22-2008, 02:35 PM
#1262
shimming of the differentials
just add a 13.2 to 14 x16 x 0.38 mm shim of any other brand
kyosho, mayhem, ofna...like
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/23221
to the gear side, between bulkhead and bearing
to push the teeths together
also if necessary, a litttle kyosho shim ( comes in set)
to the 12T pinion gear at the front side to eliminate to much a play
at the center driveshaft
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/4067
don't shim to much either though
just feel the gears moving with your fingers
there must still be just a little play
with new gears check after 1/2 gallon and redo till perfect
as for the inner shims of the differentials
better just use the OCM shims as they have specs not like any other brand
having 0.12 for older models, to 0.20 mm(latest) for the small spidershims
and
especially 0.38 mm of thickness for the big shims
against usually 0.20 / 0.20 - 0.30 range
the old, very thick black diffgaskets, had to be used with 2x 0.12 mm shims at the spidergears
latest set-up is 1x 0.20 mm shims at the spidergears and paperthin gaskets
just add a 13.2 to 14 x16 x 0.38 mm shim of any other brand
kyosho, mayhem, ofna...like
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/23221
to the gear side, between bulkhead and bearing
to push the teeths together
also if necessary, a litttle kyosho shim ( comes in set)
to the 12T pinion gear at the front side to eliminate to much a play
at the center driveshaft
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/4067
don't shim to much either though
just feel the gears moving with your fingers
there must still be just a little play
with new gears check after 1/2 gallon and redo till perfect
as for the inner shims of the differentials
better just use the OCM shims as they have specs not like any other brand
having 0.12 for older models, to 0.20 mm(latest) for the small spidershims
and
especially 0.38 mm of thickness for the big shims
against usually 0.20 / 0.20 - 0.30 range
the old, very thick black diffgaskets, had to be used with 2x 0.12 mm shims at the spidergears
latest set-up is 1x 0.20 mm shims at the spidergears and paperthin gaskets
Last edited by speedy2; 05-01-2008 at 02:42 AM.
04-22-2008, 02:49 PM
#1263
as for the dust getting in the bulkheads
a serie of bulkheads form a little cone at the 2 halves
connecting space
and dust could get in, especialy in the ones at the rear
you can put some grease or silicone at the edges
or grind the cone level
just use a little file and grind off material... in the middle only!
and again not to much, just enough ..to make sides +- equal
5 minutes work is all it takes..but take it slow and check
every dozen strokes of the file
(see images)
you can also dremel the arms U-way
at the points where the outdrives hit them when using much antisquat..
the new bulkheads coming will have all issues fixed ..
a serie of bulkheads form a little cone at the 2 halves
connecting space
and dust could get in, especialy in the ones at the rear
you can put some grease or silicone at the edges
or grind the cone level
just use a little file and grind off material... in the middle only!
and again not to much, just enough ..to make sides +- equal
5 minutes work is all it takes..but take it slow and check
every dozen strokes of the file
(see images)
you can also dremel the arms U-way
at the points where the outdrives hit them when using much antisquat..
the new bulkheads coming will have all issues fixed ..
Last edited by speedy2; 04-26-2008 at 02:21 AM.
04-22-2008, 04:43 PM
#1265
It's going good. Made some changes from the initial shake down setup and the car is really fast. I'm just gettin used to a little heavier car right now. Don't get me wrong I like the feel of a heavier car. I've been used to a RC8. The heavier car is more forgiving and I'm just getting used to that again. A.B. they still don't show those wings yet at amain.
04-22-2008, 09:04 PM
#1266
It's important to note that after talking with many people who have been using spiral cut gears for some time that they recomend a small amount of grease on the ring and pinnion. Spiral gears have a little more friction than standard cut gears and grease is important to keep wear down.
I think grease works the best on the bottom of the bulkheads to seal out dust. if you have to open up the case and remove the diff you can easily apply grease to seal the half that is removed. I use yamaha waterproof grease. i'ts inexpensive and you get a ton of it.
good idea about shaving down the case gigi. I will take a closer look at mine.
I installed a couple of 2mm thick shims on the ring side between the bearing and ring gear and one 1mm on the pinnion in the rear. the mesh was a little tight at first but after a couple of tanks it broke in and is very smooth. after break in i would take it apart, clean the ring and pinnion and re-lube. should be good to go after that.
I think grease works the best on the bottom of the bulkheads to seal out dust. if you have to open up the case and remove the diff you can easily apply grease to seal the half that is removed. I use yamaha waterproof grease. i'ts inexpensive and you get a ton of it.
good idea about shaving down the case gigi. I will take a closer look at mine.
I installed a couple of 2mm thick shims on the ring side between the bearing and ring gear and one 1mm on the pinnion in the rear. the mesh was a little tight at first but after a couple of tanks it broke in and is very smooth. after break in i would take it apart, clean the ring and pinnion and re-lube. should be good to go after that.
04-22-2008, 10:37 PM
#1268
+1 Shane... Shim it properly and you shouldn't have any problems.
04-25-2008, 11:22 AM
#1272
Tech Addict
iTrader: (16)
I dont understand how switching cars is going to help you with a setup.
Its not like one that suits you is going to magically appear in the next three weeks.
There are many posted on this site, and there are drivers in your area that could help you.
If its a matter of you just wanting to drive the mugen, its all good. I know how it is.
But if you are seriously that far off on a setup, come to Jtec Sunday,
and we can help you get somewhere reasonable that works for you and your car.
90 percent of this things Jay and I would change on the car are in the rear.
We dont even touch the front ends. Its all about playing with camber links, hub spacing, toe, and antisquat.
Jay has his car working really well.
Its not like one that suits you is going to magically appear in the next three weeks.
There are many posted on this site, and there are drivers in your area that could help you.
If its a matter of you just wanting to drive the mugen, its all good. I know how it is.
But if you are seriously that far off on a setup, come to Jtec Sunday,
and we can help you get somewhere reasonable that works for you and your car.
90 percent of this things Jay and I would change on the car are in the rear.
We dont even touch the front ends. Its all about playing with camber links, hub spacing, toe, and antisquat.
Jay has his car working really well.
04-25-2008, 05:10 PM
#1273
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)
the thing is i run the computer at the local club races and dont have time to deal with setup change. the car was undriveable off power it pushed like a 2wd buggy at wot going through a turn wich means it doesnt turn..... on power it turns all day but indoors at leisure i cant stay onpower and outdoors on a blown out track i cant stay on power the whole time. i know the buggy can be great but i dont have the time to currently make it great. the mooo i have driven before and it seems to not have so many issues to me right now thats the big thing. im going to work on the setup whenever i get time but thats going to be hard to do while running the computer
04-25-2008, 06:29 PM
#1274
cheesecake what kind of tracks are you running on, Ive fine tuned two setups one for big track,and one for small