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Old 03-01-2008, 06:25 PM
  #1141  
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You could check the clutch. Make sure that nothing is binding like the shoes or the bearings.

If that looks good it could be an air leak some where fuel line, tank, or carb.

That is what I check first once my engine starts doing funny things.
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Old 03-01-2008, 06:52 PM
  #1142  
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Should have mentioned that before. The Clutch was pretty much buggered, so its all been replaced, bearings, clutcc bell, shoes and springs. I've for some fresh fuel line that I'll put on there. Maybe it's the spring that seals the lid shut on the fuel tank? I remember seeing someone saying you can use an old clutch spring or something to hold it down. Maybe the vibration at WOT is enough to pop the lid open for a second.

How do I check the carby for leaks? Whats the deal with fixing up the fuel tank so it doesn't have air leaks?

Jase
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Old 03-01-2008, 07:22 PM
  #1143  
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I have done two different things to seal the lid. First there is an adjustment screw for the seal. By tightening it the seal will expand and loosen it and it will shrink. I have also taken a small piece of old fuel tube, lifted up the cap springs, and placed it under them. This adds alot more tension to the springs to seal the cap.

You can submerge your tank in water, plug one hole and blow through the other to see if your lid leaks.

Good luck!
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Old 03-01-2008, 07:32 PM
  #1144  
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Originally Posted by Thorin
Guys,
Anyway. The problem that I am having is when i hit WOT, the engine flames out. If I go to half throttle it can sometimes splutter as if its not getting fuel (I have checked the fuel line and its all clear, fuel is getting to the carby and no air is getting in). The fuel line to the engine isn't very long, but I haven't had problems with that in the past. I have set the screws back to factory, but its doing the same thing over and over. I have tried leaning it right out, and fattening it up and again, the same thing.

Just a thought about the WOT problem. Is it not getting fuel or flooding? Anyway, if you have not changed your glow plug I would try that first. If it is not getting fuel you could give this a try. I have heard that if your fuel tank pressure line from the pipe is not long enough it could loose pressure under full throttle. I have never had this problem so I am not for sure
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Old 03-01-2008, 08:06 PM
  #1145  
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Originally Posted by Thorin
How do I check the carby for leaks? Whats the deal with fixing up the fuel tank so it doesn't have air leaks?

Jase
Take the carb of of your engine. Put a lead of fuel line on it. Put your thumb on one end and your index finger on the other. Put it in water and blow through the fuel line. If you see any bubbles come up you have a leak.
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Old 03-01-2008, 08:52 PM
  #1146  
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ILDRVR, its not being starved of fuel that I can tell, there is fuel in the lines when it flames out. I can only think of it flooding if that is the case, but it still does it when i am running it very very lean.

Will change the fuel line and glow plug over, and then make sure the fuel tank is sealed. Hopefully that fixes all the problems.

Thanks guys, will check back later with the results.
Jase
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Old 03-02-2008, 05:48 PM
  #1147  
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Good Luck
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Old 03-02-2008, 09:10 PM
  #1148  
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thorin-whats the probelm? you cant get the engine to stay running?
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Old 03-02-2008, 10:58 PM
  #1149  
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Whats a good starting point for shock and diff oil on the TR Arena truck.
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Old 03-03-2008, 03:30 AM
  #1150  
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Depends. Are you running the crosspins?

Does anyone have one of these Ofna truggy starter boxes? Bought it cuz it said truggy box. My last one wouldn't fit the TR. Now I get this one together and it won't fit it either. I am pissed! It's not like there is much too them. Did I miss something? The pegs are all the way back and out and the flywheel is still like 3/4 of an inch forward of the starter wheel. I dont wanna run just front pegs cuz thats why I bought this one. Anyone got an idea? Thanks!
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Old 03-03-2008, 06:43 AM
  #1151  
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just to make sure its not gonna work take the pegs off and line the truck up where it will crank over then see if all the pegs will bolt up
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Old 03-03-2008, 09:53 AM
  #1152  
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Robert, I will try that when I get back in town. On the road now. The rear pegs either need to go out more or back more and they are already all the way back and out. The front is fin. I actually need to move em in and back a bit. The chassis is pretty wide in the rear. That seems to be the problem. I think I will see if I can get one of those starter plates for it from TKO. When I checked they didn't have one for it. Maybe they will make one though if people ask.
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Old 03-04-2008, 05:54 PM
  #1153  
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slaytanic i have this box and use it with my cen tr you need to flip the starter wheel to the side with the switch this is a little involved but you will see it is reversable and then adjust the rear pegs on the back of the chassy close to where the rear arms mount you will only use one front peg on the switch side but once you have it set right on the back pegs it will not move from side to side. it takes a little work to set it up but once you get it there is no better box out there
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Old 03-04-2008, 06:20 PM
  #1154  
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Thanks man! Thats ggos to hear I didn't waste my money. So there is no way to get all 4 pegs? I wonder if that starter plate will fit on the lid. Thinking of getting one.
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Old 03-04-2008, 06:40 PM
  #1155  
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no the chassy is to wide in the front but trust me you dont need it this box will turn over even the most stubborn motors my brothers have the chrome top and its no contest by mid day there charging there boxes not me it will go all day and then some you definetly made the right choice
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