1LikesCEN Matrix TR
08-21-2007, 08:06 AM
#751
Tech Master
The new arms will replace the current arms eventually.
In the mean time, you can take a front CVD and punch the pin out and use them in the rear. Use the lower outer hole in the tower and the inner hole on the arm. Or use the long shock ends. Or you can use Kyo hubs and use the front CVD in the rear. Or use -3' camber. Or you can use 2' rear toe block. Or you can run the hubs all the way back because that pushes the CVD's in more. Every little set-up change makes a difference in the CVD arc & position. For the front, just shim in the CVD's. Pro-line LST 23mm hubs work also if you don't want to run 17mm hubs.
The only time I have ever poped a rear CVD out was when I ran a 3t2s block with the hubs all the way forward, but I normally run them all the way back. With the new arms, they will never pop out.
In the mean time, you can take a front CVD and punch the pin out and use them in the rear. Use the lower outer hole in the tower and the inner hole on the arm. Or use the long shock ends. Or you can use Kyo hubs and use the front CVD in the rear. Or use -3' camber. Or you can use 2' rear toe block. Or you can run the hubs all the way back because that pushes the CVD's in more. Every little set-up change makes a difference in the CVD arc & position. For the front, just shim in the CVD's. Pro-line LST 23mm hubs work also if you don't want to run 17mm hubs.
The only time I have ever poped a rear CVD out was when I ran a 3t2s block with the hubs all the way forward, but I normally run them all the way back. With the new arms, they will never pop out.
08-21-2007, 09:32 AM
#752
Tech Apprentice
Curious though.. Why Cen concentrated the effort on revising the A-arm as suppose to just make the shaft a little longer?
08-21-2007, 09:52 AM
#753
Tech Master
The new arms will improve the handling and performance. Longer bones would change nothing. I expected them to just make longer CVD's since that would be the cheapest fix (no new mold), but I am happy that they made shorter front arms and longer rear arms to give the truck even more steering instead like I asked back in December of 2006.
They made 3 different lengths for us to try (16 differnt combinations), so we all ran differnt arms last weekend. My truck had more steering then ever even with a front sway bar. I hope they go with my arm set-up. But Andy liked his arm combo as well and I think Chris ran the stock arms and he was the only one to do 14 laps, so they all worked great because it is a great truck. Joey ran another combo and Pudin ran another. But on tight tracks like here in FL, the ones I ran should be the best in theory.
They made 3 different lengths for us to try (16 differnt combinations), so we all ran differnt arms last weekend. My truck had more steering then ever even with a front sway bar. I hope they go with my arm set-up. But Andy liked his arm combo as well and I think Chris ran the stock arms and he was the only one to do 14 laps, so they all worked great because it is a great truck. Joey ran another combo and Pudin ran another. But on tight tracks like here in FL, the ones I ran should be the best in theory.
08-21-2007, 10:08 AM
#754
Tech Apprentice
Thanks Gene. that explains it.. great info.
09-02-2007, 06:27 PM
#760
I’m hoping to race a Truggy for the first time later this month, can anyone recommended a suitable servo spec or model for the Matrix TR...
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
09-03-2007, 07:33 PM
#762
set up
Does anyone have any setups for an open-dry-hardpacked-clay/dirt-dusty track. Right now I am running:
Front LSD 80wt gear
Center Cross pins 5000
Rear Cross pins 2000
Front Shocks - Piston #1 40 wt
Rear Shocks - Piston #1 35 wt
Tires: Proline Crimefighters zero offset (I used to use the 1/2" but the zero turn in a lot tighter)
This is not too bad, but I was wondering what others have tried.
Thanks
Front LSD 80wt gear
Center Cross pins 5000
Rear Cross pins 2000
Front Shocks - Piston #1 40 wt
Rear Shocks - Piston #1 35 wt
Tires: Proline Crimefighters zero offset (I used to use the 1/2" but the zero turn in a lot tighter)
This is not too bad, but I was wondering what others have tried.
Thanks
09-04-2007, 04:38 AM
#763
5k in the center seems pretty low.. I run 10 k.. 15 k if im onblue groove...
this is if your looking for more rear bite.. try this..
other than that all sounds well I would move your rear upper arm to the inner middle hole to lengthen your link.. This will make the rear of the truck more controllable by changing your roll center.. also if thats still not enough you can then run it to the outer hole at the wheel..
I run different pistons and heavier oils.. but you should be in the ballpark..
this is if your looking for more rear bite.. try this..
other than that all sounds well I would move your rear upper arm to the inner middle hole to lengthen your link.. This will make the rear of the truck more controllable by changing your roll center.. also if thats still not enough you can then run it to the outer hole at the wheel..
I run different pistons and heavier oils.. but you should be in the ballpark..
09-05-2007, 08:06 PM
#764
Thanks, Does anyone else have any setup input?
