1LikesCEN Matrix TR
07-28-2007, 10:09 AM
#707
07-29-2007, 02:59 PM
#708
Slay:
If all is replaced and the tubing is new.. not just some stuff you had laying around.. The only thing I can think of at this time would be to try Zip tying all your connections... If that doesnt solve the problem. I am not sure where to point you...
If the tubing was older but not used it may have dry rotted..... o9r been punctured somehow..
If all is replaced and the tubing is new.. not just some stuff you had laying around.. The only thing I can think of at this time would be to try Zip tying all your connections... If that doesnt solve the problem. I am not sure where to point you...
If the tubing was older but not used it may have dry rotted..... o9r been punctured somehow..
07-29-2007, 05:14 PM
#709
Thanks for the advice. I am anal about fuel lines and change it pretty much every time I clean up the truck. I think I'll swap out the fuel filter at this point. It's the only thing I havnt changed yet. I heard some of the tanks had bad lids. Maybe I got 2 in a row? It really is making it impossible to keep a good tune.
07-30-2007, 01:10 PM
#710
Tech Master
Take out the fuel filter and recheck. Filters cause air bubbles in the lines.
07-30-2007, 03:15 PM
#711
Slaytanic, I'm in the ame boat, I'm on my second tank too, still air bubbles. Tried it without the filter, no luck. I have zip tied all fuel lines, no luck.
Personally, I believe it's the tank, where the fuel inlet goes into the tank, it turns and runs down to the bottom where the stone filter is. Somewhere in that line is a ho
le or something, maybe a seam not sealing.
Only cure I've found is using the tank off my st-r, no air bubbles with that. It's almost a drop in switch, only the overflow drain is on the other end of tank. I modified the st-r mount so I could use tubing to run the overflow off the chassis.
Personally, I believe it's the tank, where the fuel inlet goes into the tank, it turns and runs down to the bottom where the stone filter is. Somewhere in that line is a ho
le or something, maybe a seam not sealing.
Only cure I've found is using the tank off my st-r, no air bubbles with that. It's almost a drop in switch, only the overflow drain is on the other end of tank. I modified the st-r mount so I could use tubing to run the overflow off the chassis.
07-30-2007, 07:13 PM
#712
Tech Master
it could be 1 of the o-rings on the lid also. I have had a few that start leaking. Plug the hose to the carb and blow into the pressure hose. If you hear or feel air going through the top of the lid, then that is the problem.
07-30-2007, 07:28 PM
#713
Guys if ya have any old tank laying around switch out the springs with the Cen tank, you will be happy
07-30-2007, 11:36 PM
#714
RC bodyworks lid
Few pics of the new lid (well not quite new anymore since I raced last weekend and finished 8th cuz my receiver battery went flat)
I can also tell RB 928 pulls really hard with 14T bell
http://www.snrt.net/ARENA/bodyworks1.jpg
http://www.snrt.net/ARENA/bodyworks2.jpg
Also found out that when shifting from .21 to .28 the blue springs at rear were too soft. I should have changed them for the A-final but but was too lazy I guess to do it since I raced also Matrix buggy on the same day. Blue springs worked well with RB .21 and jumped nicely a bit nose up. With RB 928 front wheels were off the ground too much.
I can also tell RB 928 pulls really hard with 14T bell
http://www.snrt.net/ARENA/bodyworks1.jpg
http://www.snrt.net/ARENA/bodyworks2.jpg
Also found out that when shifting from .21 to .28 the blue springs at rear were too soft. I should have changed them for the A-final but but was too lazy I guess to do it since I raced also Matrix buggy on the same day. Blue springs worked well with RB .21 and jumped nicely a bit nose up. With RB 928 front wheels were off the ground too much.
07-31-2007, 07:40 AM
#715
Thanks for the tips guys. I'm gonna try taking out the filter and see if thats the issue. If that dont do it than I'll take a closer look at the tank.
07-31-2007, 08:36 AM
#716
Tech Master
8 Cen trucks and buggys make the pro A-mains at round 2 of the RC Pro East Series and take TQ and 1st.
http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/news...p?storyid=2623
http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/news...p?storyid=2623
07-31-2007, 03:25 PM
#717
Tech Master
08-07-2007, 03:41 PM
#718
Tech Regular
iTrader: (12)
Right now I`m running Gene`s set up amost to the T but I dont run the front sway bar. I`m thinking of trying the 2 deg. rear toe plate to help it rotate. Not that it needs to rotate more but always looking at making it better. I think I may need to put the front bar back on to keep the front from being too agressive. Just wondering who as tried it and how did it work for you?
Thanks
Thanks
08-08-2007, 05:54 AM
#719
If I use the Cen diff cross-pin conversion, do I have to use the plastic diff case??
Rreg posted this earlier...is this a good place to start? What is everyone running with the pins?
80wght up front (lsd), 7-10 center, and 2-3 rear
Thanks
Rreg posted this earlier...is this a good place to start? What is everyone running with the pins?
80wght up front (lsd), 7-10 center, and 2-3 rear
Thanks
08-08-2007, 06:37 AM
#720
ildvr.
If you use the cen kit you will need the plastic diff cups.. Genes kit will work with either cup..
I ran the lsd up front.. the numbers gene recommended where
80wght up front lsd
10,000 to 15,000 when using front lsd. ,, in the center..
3-5000 in the rear..
with out the front lsd..it was
7, 20, and 3
hope this helps..
The truck is way more stable on loose stuff...
If you use the cen kit you will need the plastic diff cups.. Genes kit will work with either cup..
I ran the lsd up front.. the numbers gene recommended where
80wght up front lsd
10,000 to 15,000 when using front lsd. ,, in the center..
3-5000 in the rear..
with out the front lsd..it was
7, 20, and 3
hope this helps..
The truck is way more stable on loose stuff...