Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road
Losi 8ight shock interchangeability >

Losi 8ight shock interchangeability

Losi 8ight shock interchangeability

Old 07-24-2020, 05:44 AM
  #1  
Tech Rookie
Thread Starter
 
Markus23's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: SC
Posts: 8
Default Losi 8ight shock interchangeability

Long story short, the lack of springs for my losi 8ight rtr is killing me so ive been looking into shocks from a kit to bump up to 16mm from the 15mm currently on my car. my question is....will the 8ightx or 8ightxe shocks fit on the rtr? i get that mounting may be different and i can work around that easily enough. mostly are the shock bodies the same length front and rear as say the 3.0 or 4.0. i can find entire shock sets for the x and xe which is more cost effective than buying 4.0 or 3.0 shocks piece by piece. also, i know spring cups will be different since the 3.0 and 4.0 had taper springs. or atleast thats what i gather from the parts explosions ive been staring at for days....any help is much appreciated
Markus23 is offline  
Old 07-24-2020, 09:32 AM
  #2  
Tech Elite
 
token's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Aurora, Colorado
Posts: 4,481
Default

Originally Posted by Markus23 View Post
Long story short, the lack of springs for my losi 8ight rtr is killing me so ive been looking into shocks from a kit to bump up to 16mm from the 15mm currently on my car. my question is....will the 8ightx or 8ightxe shocks fit on the rtr? i get that mounting may be different and i can work around that easily enough. mostly are the shock bodies the same length front and rear as say the 3.0 or 4.0. i can find entire shock sets for the x and xe which is more cost effective than buying 4.0 or 3.0 shocks piece by piece. also, i know spring cups will be different since the 3.0 and 4.0 had taper springs. or atleast thats what i gather from the parts explosions ive been staring at for days....any help is much appreciated
You will need the shocks from the 4.0......
token is offline  
Old 07-24-2020, 11:33 AM
  #3  
Tech Rookie
Thread Starter
 
Markus23's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: SC
Posts: 8
Default

Thats what i was afraid of lol. Thanks for the quick reply
Markus23 is offline  
Old 07-28-2020, 06:11 PM
  #4  
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 1,893
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Mugen 1/8 shocks ++
Dakota Phend used mugen springs and tlr shocks at some point I believe.
Juglenaut is offline  
Old 07-28-2020, 06:21 PM
  #5  
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 1,893
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

A slight modification is required to use X Xe shock ends and cups. Can’t remember at the moment..

The X shocks will work the same but just as expensive.
Juglenaut is offline  
Old 07-29-2020, 08:19 AM
  #6  
Tech Master
iTrader: (25)
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Quinby south Carolina
Posts: 1,684
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

I think I saw this on Facebook and replied. But u can do a couple things. 1 you can pull the steel silver balls and trade them out with the anodized brownish aluminum, the steel balls are standard 3/32 8ight 4.0 size and the brown are metric 8ight-x, that will allow u to use a 3/32 screw with steel balls. Or you can use the m3 3mm screw with both but the m3 is slightly smaller and will have slop.

also if I was u I would look into a bigger shock tower for your front. Maybe go get a truggy front tower and fashion yourself a few new holes cause forsure those shocks are going to be really long for that old of a car. For example I think the front max droop u can get is 96mm front, these x shocks in front sit at 106 with the ability to go to something like 110/112mm. That means your shocks will bottom out really hard if you don't get a taller tower and the rear will have a bunch of room before the chassis hits the ground, we want shocks where the chassis takes the bottoming out and still has more travel, I can bottom my cars out and still lift the wheel up an inch more with or without the shocks on.

I think your desired outcome may better be getting a 8 x. However doing mods like this was what got me into it. I have in the past put ae shocks on a tamiya truggy and it bottomed out like 6mm before the chassis could. First lap I could feel the binding in the rear under power but it was when i landed off the first real jump i noticed the insane reaction to the right or left it had, on a real track i would have been shot over 2 lanes. When the shock binds like that under throttle and load it makes the car super unpredictable and shoot different directions and u have no control over it. So your really better off with a shorter shock full travel then a bigger shock that crams up cause it doesn't have the length.
Matt Piva is offline  

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.