jkas10

iTrader: (123)

I would definitely get the Tekno aluminum arms for steering and throttle/brake. They fit perfectly and you won't need to worry about a failure.

gordon_2456

iTrader: (2)

Any chance someone can get me this measurement? Thinking of making a nitro MT410 and am trying to figure out what bodies would fit width wise. Thanks!

FrozenTundra

Hi. Has anyone had an issue with cooking throttle/brake servos in this car. Just trying to figure out what’s happening. Not new to nitro or RCs. I know about endpoints and I even use a chunk of fuel tubing at the end of the linkage so it’s easier on the servo. Been through 4 servos. First 3 were with a aluminum horn. Put in a plastic horn and I thought I fixed the problem but within a couple of runs it cooked another one. Servo gets hot and just stops working.

frewster

iTrader: (1)

Nope. I've never had that happen. Not on my NB48 2.0 or on any other car.

pballer2777

iTrader: (28)

maybe make sure the servo isnt touching the chassis.

tobamiester

iTrader: (360)

Nope never had an issue, been driving the car since Sept 2019.

What servo's are you running ?

Flexbox

They are the right size to shim the clutch bell.

jersey

iTrader: (1)

check all your linkage if it’s good straight Not bent etc. I’d assume your doing all your end points correctly, not setting them can overwork Servos check your carb is it smooth and easy to open by hand not scratched inside the carb slide or inside carb body ? Another gunked up by air filter oil etc. sometimes when you put to much air filter oil it can suck it in and make carb sticky so carb slide doesn’t move freely. dont over oil filters. Rubber band on throttle to strong maybe stressing servo. Servo is to low or chassis not cut right and servo is bottom out or hitting chassis.
figured id post some things it could be, sorry you may know all this already but some stuff to just check over.

frewster

iTrader: (1)

I rebuilt my buggy to the Jared Tebo Summer 2020 setup with VRP XV3 pistons and it's like a whole new car. I've never had it drive this well before. I'm also running the new truggy 18 degree carriers and using the outer hole so the front links are a little but longer.

The car has tons of steering, it's easy to drive, and I think the piston help it stabilize quicker coming out of jumps.

cjtamu

iTrader: (11)

Wish I'd seen this earlier. This was a problem BITD with the original 8ight. Any chance you're running no rear brace or running the brace loose? If you haven't solved this already be sure you leave enough gap at the rod collar on throttle side so it doesn't pull on the servo if chassis flexes. I never liked the fuel tubing solution, there's still some resistance and I felt like throttle pickup was less consistent. If you're still having issues you might check your receiver voltage as well.

frewster

iTrader: (1)

I had another great race with the Tebo Summer 2020 setup last Friday. We didn't have enough nitro buggies to form a class, so I ran with the ebuggies and was able to finish 2nd. This setup has completely changed the car and made it both easier to drive and faster. I highly recommend it along with the 5x1.5 VRP pistons.

CJWRACING

Techno has a front arm and rear arm that are distinctly different from other brand kits. Let me know how the length of the arm and the angle of the caster affect the drivingability of the techno.

tobamiester

iTrader: (360)

Good amount of info here: https://blog.teknorc.com/2019/09/10/...o-the-details/

mercfocus

iTrader: (3)

Did you ever get an answer to this? Looks like nobody else answered this or maybe you got your answer somewhere else but I thought I'd check real quick.

it's right in between 7 7/16' and 7 1/2". Looks to be exactly at 190mm.

frewster

iTrader: (1)

Had a great race weekend with my Tekno 2.0s. Managed to hold on to 4th place in the nitro main and got my first plaque. No broken parts on the cars, and the only change I made was adding more rear toe (3.5 degrees) to the buggies to add some on power stability.