9LikesGetting Started in Nitro
02-23-2019, 05:21 AM
#16
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
I started with nitro rcs, and I’m a nitro head I love nitro and only really wanna run nitro this year. But if someone asks me what to start out on, I’ll say get a ebuggy for sure. Learn to drive, if you or him is doing 1/10 already then just get a ebuggy learn to drive the 1/8 scale car. See how interested you are in it. Learn basic driving working on your laps practicing etc to understand all the basic knowledge. After doing that then If still interested get a nitro buggy,
for both I’d recommend trying to find a lightly used kit version of a car, get a new engine, not the most expensive engine. Maybe like a Novarossi or something on cheaper side like 125-150 bucks.
Get some decent servos. And a decent radio and you’ll have a much better platform then a rtr car and less stuff will break granted that the car you bought isn’t beat up.
Some guys will go into nitro and buy expensive engine or say you need this engine etc. but i say get a cheaper Novarossi or something like that cause it’s not the end of world if you ruin it.
Nitro is very fun, but in the beginning it may not be, there is a high learning curve and really a lot of homework to do before you can just drive around on the track and have a blast.
Do you and him have patience and time? Are you willing to read and study something then go take the time to learn it and do it, when you go to the track with electric car you can really just plug in the battery and and go drive around and not really have to change anything all day if you don’t want to and drive.
With nitro there’s a lot reading and then trying stuff and it may take you awhile to understand it depending on your background of engines etc. I’m linking some videos of some nitro how to videos etc. if your not willing to watch and do this stuff you probably won’t have a good run at nitro.
Tuning
clutch maitenance
setting your end points and linkage is a big thing not doing that correctly you won’t be able to tune right
you basically have to be willing to take your time and learn a bunch of stuff while others are out playing. Like learning to tune some people get it some others don’t.
I say if you don’t have patience or a lot of time then nitro will be hard but if your someone that is willing to learn then try it out but I’d still recommend electric first to get the hang of it. But here is some videos that I would watch just to show this is stuff you will have to do if you have any questions feeel free to ask.
Break in video
for both I’d recommend trying to find a lightly used kit version of a car, get a new engine, not the most expensive engine. Maybe like a Novarossi or something on cheaper side like 125-150 bucks.
Get some decent servos. And a decent radio and you’ll have a much better platform then a rtr car and less stuff will break granted that the car you bought isn’t beat up.
Some guys will go into nitro and buy expensive engine or say you need this engine etc. but i say get a cheaper Novarossi or something like that cause it’s not the end of world if you ruin it.
Nitro is very fun, but in the beginning it may not be, there is a high learning curve and really a lot of homework to do before you can just drive around on the track and have a blast.
Do you and him have patience and time? Are you willing to read and study something then go take the time to learn it and do it, when you go to the track with electric car you can really just plug in the battery and and go drive around and not really have to change anything all day if you don’t want to and drive.
With nitro there’s a lot reading and then trying stuff and it may take you awhile to understand it depending on your background of engines etc. I’m linking some videos of some nitro how to videos etc. if your not willing to watch and do this stuff you probably won’t have a good run at nitro.
Tuning
clutch maitenance
setting your end points and linkage is a big thing not doing that correctly you won’t be able to tune right
you basically have to be willing to take your time and learn a bunch of stuff while others are out playing. Like learning to tune some people get it some others don’t.
I say if you don’t have patience or a lot of time then nitro will be hard but if your someone that is willing to learn then try it out but I’d still recommend electric first to get the hang of it. But here is some videos that I would watch just to show this is stuff you will have to do if you have any questions feeel free to ask.
Break in video
02-23-2019, 09:51 AM
#17
Great videos, thanks for posting. I'm also looking at a nitro buggy for my kids and I to build and learn on. The videos will certainly help!
02-23-2019, 10:20 AM
#18
Great collection of vids!
I raced with Adam quite often 10 years ago, him and Ronda are good people. I trust his videos and the info givin in them. If you decide to go nitro this is the perfect time of year when its rainy or snowy at the track, its a good time to learn and build.
Starter box is a keeper! If you get a starter box, get a good universal one, they can be adjusted for any buggy or truggy. This might be one area you dont want to skimp much as the box will stay with you as you try out different kits. We ended up buying the Kyosho (KYO36209) from Amain and adjusted the pegs to start both Losi and Xray. The losi slides forward to both front pegs and the Xray slides to a peg on one side with the rear arm setting on a small paint marker line I painted on. They both start perfectly on this box, would be even easier with one kit to start.
Yes electric is buggy's are easier, but my point is we dont always need easier things in our life. Our kids can benefit from learning all the things that come from the nitro side of this hobby. Patients and learning guys,... its all the instant gratification that's hurting our kids. Nitro requires a higher level of attention to detail, patients, mechanical understanding, preparation, planning, that is everything our kids miss out on in the video game world we live in. The original poster on the thread, stated he already has electric RC experience, so wouldn't think it too hard to transition, vs someone that never had an RC at all. Go for it!
...and don't get me wrong I'm sitting next to 3 electric cars on my shelf as I type this. Its just that Nitro is something special if you have the means to get one going, its fun!
We are using:
Kyosho multi starter box 2.0 $75.00 (KYO36209)
I raced with Adam quite often 10 years ago, him and Ronda are good people. I trust his videos and the info givin in them. If you decide to go nitro this is the perfect time of year when its rainy or snowy at the track, its a good time to learn and build.
Starter box is a keeper! If you get a starter box, get a good universal one, they can be adjusted for any buggy or truggy. This might be one area you dont want to skimp much as the box will stay with you as you try out different kits. We ended up buying the Kyosho (KYO36209) from Amain and adjusted the pegs to start both Losi and Xray. The losi slides forward to both front pegs and the Xray slides to a peg on one side with the rear arm setting on a small paint marker line I painted on. They both start perfectly on this box, would be even easier with one kit to start.
Yes electric is buggy's are easier, but my point is we dont always need easier things in our life. Our kids can benefit from learning all the things that come from the nitro side of this hobby. Patients and learning guys,... its all the instant gratification that's hurting our kids. Nitro requires a higher level of attention to detail, patients, mechanical understanding, preparation, planning, that is everything our kids miss out on in the video game world we live in. The original poster on the thread, stated he already has electric RC experience, so wouldn't think it too hard to transition, vs someone that never had an RC at all. Go for it!
...and don't get me wrong I'm sitting next to 3 electric cars on my shelf as I type this. Its just that Nitro is something special if you have the means to get one going, its fun!
We are using:
Kyosho multi starter box 2.0 $75.00 (KYO36209)
02-24-2019, 02:28 AM
#19
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Great collection of vids!
I raced with Adam quite often 10 years ago, him and Ronda are good people. I trust his videos and the info givin in them. If you decide to go nitro this is the perfect time of year when its rainy or snowy at the track, its a good time to learn and build.
Starter box is a keeper! If you get a starter box, get a good universal one, they can be adjusted for any buggy or truggy. This might be one area you dont want to skimp much as the box will stay with you as you try out different kits. We ended up buying the Kyosho (KYO36209) from Amain and adjusted the pegs to start both Losi and Xray. The losi slides forward to both front pegs and the Xray slides to a peg on one side with the rear arm setting on a small paint marker line I painted on. They both start perfectly on this box, would be even easier with one kit to start.
Yes electric is buggy's are easier, but my point is we dont always need easier things in our life. Our kids can benefit from learning all the things that come from the nitro side of this hobby. Patients and learning guys,... its all the instant gratification that's hurting our kids. Nitro requires a higher level of attention to detail, patients, mechanical understanding, preparation, planning, that is everything our kids miss out on in the video game world we live in. The original poster on the thread, stated he already has electric RC experience, so wouldn't think it too hard to transition, vs someone that never had an RC at all. Go for it!
...and don't get me wrong I'm sitting next to 3 electric cars on my shelf as I type this. Its just that Nitro is something special if you have the means to get one going, its fun!
We are using:
Kyosho multi starter box 2.0 $75.00 (KYO36209)
I raced with Adam quite often 10 years ago, him and Ronda are good people. I trust his videos and the info givin in them. If you decide to go nitro this is the perfect time of year when its rainy or snowy at the track, its a good time to learn and build.
Starter box is a keeper! If you get a starter box, get a good universal one, they can be adjusted for any buggy or truggy. This might be one area you dont want to skimp much as the box will stay with you as you try out different kits. We ended up buying the Kyosho (KYO36209) from Amain and adjusted the pegs to start both Losi and Xray. The losi slides forward to both front pegs and the Xray slides to a peg on one side with the rear arm setting on a small paint marker line I painted on. They both start perfectly on this box, would be even easier with one kit to start.
Yes electric is buggy's are easier, but my point is we dont always need easier things in our life. Our kids can benefit from learning all the things that come from the nitro side of this hobby. Patients and learning guys,... its all the instant gratification that's hurting our kids. Nitro requires a higher level of attention to detail, patients, mechanical understanding, preparation, planning, that is everything our kids miss out on in the video game world we live in. The original poster on the thread, stated he already has electric RC experience, so wouldn't think it too hard to transition, vs someone that never had an RC at all. Go for it!
...and don't get me wrong I'm sitting next to 3 electric cars on my shelf as I type this. Its just that Nitro is something special if you have the means to get one going, its fun!
We are using:
Kyosho multi starter box 2.0 $75.00 (KYO36209)
yea he said they race 1/10. Depending on what kinda surface he racing on the tire thing can be very different depending on what he is running on.
But I agree nitro is harder and takes more time and patience, not trying to scare him away from nitro but don’t want him to get one and leave the hobby cause it’s to hard just want him to be aware of some of the work that goes into it that you don’t have to do on electric. But when someone that doesn’t know a lot or never did it I always say go with a ebuggy first learn that then try nitro. But yea if you guys know a decent amount about the basics definitely give nitro a try, I’m trying to get more people st my local track into it and offer them help when they do.
But yea I agree with you. If he is up to the challenge and into learning and have time and both are patient definitely go for it. I started wjth nitro and then got some electrics. This year mainly just gonna run nitro just cause it’s more enjoyable for me. I love practicing for a hour straight and love tuning and the feel of the clutch definitely way more rewarding when you learn it. But yea Rc is kinda like a hands on racing video game that you get to travel and work on your stuff it’s better then any video game that’s for sure haha
02-27-2019, 06:15 AM
#20
If you go into my recent threads you will see that I recently bought a MBX7r Nitro kit.
I haven't even ran the car yet and it's still in great condition. I'm more than willing to sell it to you in order to focus on my REVO. I had plans to race as well and thus have the starter box, batteries, engine, pipe, servos etc. If you're interested please don't hesitate to message me. Mugen is quality kit with plenty of support.
I haven't even ran the car yet and it's still in great condition. I'm more than willing to sell it to you in order to focus on my REVO. I had plans to race as well and thus have the starter box, batteries, engine, pipe, servos etc. If you're interested please don't hesitate to message me. Mugen is quality kit with plenty of support.
02-27-2019, 07:16 AM
#21
Nitro rtr's are crap. There, I said it. You're already somewhat familiar with RC, so do it right. Build the car right the first time with quality parts, that's where you can save money and aggravation. You need to understand every single part of the car, to run nitro well enough to have fun.
And you need to make peace with the fact, that broken parts can't be tuned. Leaky crank bearing= non tune-able failure. Bad fuel line, too long fuel line, leaky carb, old plug, leaky exhaust, etc. etc. Don't be one of the guys that is constantly tuning junk, and ends up hating nitro. A good setup, is quite easy to tune.
And sadly, you'll need to disassemble and clean the car inbetween race weekends to inspect it properly. Notice that the fast guys appear to have a brand new car every race. Same car, just clean and rebuilt.
Starter box is a must have. Convert it to lipo. My box is 15 years olde, so I'll let someone else pick one out.
You'll need a little caddy for your fuel bottle, starter box, igniter, screw driver, fuel gun. I use the toll tote that was in a 55 gallon Husky tote box.
Get an OS based engine. Any OS, or Protek Samurai. You can even order such engine broken in. I think even Drake has a run in service now.
Engine Break-in service by Adam Drake
Engines actually last a long time. As long as my electric esc's and motors, at least.
Easiest start I can think of, due to kit completeness and good instructions:
-Xray xb8. It's complete with a good clutch that fit's OS engines with minimal shimming, a prebuilt fuel tank that isn't leaky, and excellent instructions.
-Protek Samurai .21 with 2090 pipe combo from Amain. Correct exhaust, header, seals, and springs right out of the box.
-Protek clutch shim kit for Xray, Mugen, Kyosho.
-Hotshot glow igniter. The big d cell sized rechargeable. This is the only ignitor I've had any luck with starting new, and rich nitro engines.
-Heatgun and Protek head heaters. Use every time. Don't melt your carb though. Be careful.
-Byrons 30%fuel. Easy to tune, and nice a freshness seal on the jug.
-Hitec 7955 servos. Lipo ready, durable, and Hitec will fix them free or cheaply.
-Protech 2s lipo rx pack.
Watch Tebo's Maxima fuel tuning you tube video. It's hard to hear him, but it's still the best nitro engine tuning vid out there.
Keep your piston down, when the engine is shut off and before starting.
When in doubt, visit a local track for help.
Nitro is more rewarding because of it's challenge.
And you need to make peace with the fact, that broken parts can't be tuned. Leaky crank bearing= non tune-able failure. Bad fuel line, too long fuel line, leaky carb, old plug, leaky exhaust, etc. etc. Don't be one of the guys that is constantly tuning junk, and ends up hating nitro. A good setup, is quite easy to tune.
And sadly, you'll need to disassemble and clean the car inbetween race weekends to inspect it properly. Notice that the fast guys appear to have a brand new car every race. Same car, just clean and rebuilt.
Starter box is a must have. Convert it to lipo. My box is 15 years olde, so I'll let someone else pick one out.
You'll need a little caddy for your fuel bottle, starter box, igniter, screw driver, fuel gun. I use the toll tote that was in a 55 gallon Husky tote box.
Get an OS based engine. Any OS, or Protek Samurai. You can even order such engine broken in. I think even Drake has a run in service now.
Engine Break-in service by Adam Drake
Engines actually last a long time. As long as my electric esc's and motors, at least.
Easiest start I can think of, due to kit completeness and good instructions:
-Xray xb8. It's complete with a good clutch that fit's OS engines with minimal shimming, a prebuilt fuel tank that isn't leaky, and excellent instructions.
-Protek Samurai .21 with 2090 pipe combo from Amain. Correct exhaust, header, seals, and springs right out of the box.
-Protek clutch shim kit for Xray, Mugen, Kyosho.
-Hotshot glow igniter. The big d cell sized rechargeable. This is the only ignitor I've had any luck with starting new, and rich nitro engines.
-Heatgun and Protek head heaters. Use every time. Don't melt your carb though. Be careful.
-Byrons 30%fuel. Easy to tune, and nice a freshness seal on the jug.
-Hitec 7955 servos. Lipo ready, durable, and Hitec will fix them free or cheaply.
-Protech 2s lipo rx pack.
Watch Tebo's Maxima fuel tuning you tube video. It's hard to hear him, but it's still the best nitro engine tuning vid out there.
Keep your piston down, when the engine is shut off and before starting.
When in doubt, visit a local track for help.
Nitro is more rewarding because of it's challenge.
02-27-2019, 01:22 PM
#22
ROTFF........ People wonder why the hobby is stagnate. You dont need to drop $1500 on high end products to have fun. An RTR is perfectly fine to start nitro....
02-27-2019, 01:28 PM
#23
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
Nitro rtr's are crap. There, I said it. You're already somewhat familiar with RC, so do it right. Build the car right the first time with quality parts, that's where you can save money and aggravation. You need to understand every single part of the car, to run nitro well enough to have fun.
And you need to make peace with the fact, that broken parts can't be tuned. Leaky crank bearing= non tune-able failure. Bad fuel line, too long fuel line, leaky carb, old plug, leaky exhaust, etc. etc. Don't be one of the guys that is constantly tuning junk, and ends up hating nitro. A good setup, is quite easy to tune.
And sadly, you'll need to disassemble and clean the car inbetween race weekends to inspect it properly. Notice that the fast guys appear to have a brand new car every race. Same car, just clean and rebuilt.
Starter box is a must have. Convert it to lipo. My box is 15 years olde, so I'll let someone else pick one out.
You'll need a little caddy for your fuel bottle, starter box, igniter, screw driver, fuel gun. I use the toll tote that was in a 55 gallon Husky tote box.
Get an OS based engine. Any OS, or Protek Samurai. You can even order such engine broken in. I think even Drake has a run in service now.
Engine Break-in service by Adam Drake
Engines actually last a long time. As long as my electric esc's and motors, at least.
Easiest start I can think of, due to kit completeness and good instructions:
-Xray xb8. It's complete with a good clutch that fit's OS engines with minimal shimming, a prebuilt fuel tank that isn't leaky, and excellent instructions.
-Protek Samurai .21 with 2090 pipe combo from Amain. Correct exhaust, header, seals, and springs right out of the box.
-Protek clutch shim kit for Xray, Mugen, Kyosho.
-Hotshot glow igniter. The big d cell sized rechargeable. This is the only ignitor I've had any luck with starting new, and rich nitro engines.
-Heatgun and Protek head heaters. Use every time. Don't melt your carb though. Be careful.
-Byrons 30%fuel. Easy to tune, and nice a freshness seal on the jug.
-Hitec 7955 servos. Lipo ready, durable, and Hitec will fix them free or cheaply.
-Protech 2s lipo rx pack.
Watch Tebo's Maxima fuel tuning you tube video. It's hard to hear him, but it's still the best nitro engine tuning vid out there.
Keep your piston down, when the engine is shut off and before starting.
When in doubt, visit a local track for help.
Nitro is more rewarding because of it's challenge.
And you need to make peace with the fact, that broken parts can't be tuned. Leaky crank bearing= non tune-able failure. Bad fuel line, too long fuel line, leaky carb, old plug, leaky exhaust, etc. etc. Don't be one of the guys that is constantly tuning junk, and ends up hating nitro. A good setup, is quite easy to tune.
And sadly, you'll need to disassemble and clean the car inbetween race weekends to inspect it properly. Notice that the fast guys appear to have a brand new car every race. Same car, just clean and rebuilt.
Starter box is a must have. Convert it to lipo. My box is 15 years olde, so I'll let someone else pick one out.
You'll need a little caddy for your fuel bottle, starter box, igniter, screw driver, fuel gun. I use the toll tote that was in a 55 gallon Husky tote box.
Get an OS based engine. Any OS, or Protek Samurai. You can even order such engine broken in. I think even Drake has a run in service now.
Engine Break-in service by Adam Drake
Engines actually last a long time. As long as my electric esc's and motors, at least.
Easiest start I can think of, due to kit completeness and good instructions:
-Xray xb8. It's complete with a good clutch that fit's OS engines with minimal shimming, a prebuilt fuel tank that isn't leaky, and excellent instructions.
-Protek Samurai .21 with 2090 pipe combo from Amain. Correct exhaust, header, seals, and springs right out of the box.
-Protek clutch shim kit for Xray, Mugen, Kyosho.
-Hotshot glow igniter. The big d cell sized rechargeable. This is the only ignitor I've had any luck with starting new, and rich nitro engines.
-Heatgun and Protek head heaters. Use every time. Don't melt your carb though. Be careful.
-Byrons 30%fuel. Easy to tune, and nice a freshness seal on the jug.
-Hitec 7955 servos. Lipo ready, durable, and Hitec will fix them free or cheaply.
-Protech 2s lipo rx pack.
Watch Tebo's Maxima fuel tuning you tube video. It's hard to hear him, but it's still the best nitro engine tuning vid out there.
Keep your piston down, when the engine is shut off and before starting.
When in doubt, visit a local track for help.
Nitro is more rewarding because of it's challenge.
He asked about RTR's. And clearly, you sir do not know much about the RTR's talked about in this thread.
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