17LikesPillow Ball vs. C-Hub
11-29-2018, 01:10 AM
#31
if it were that far out the cap would have to be threaded on the backside over the shaft, i guess its possible just doesnt seem like it would hold up and be practical anywhere but an engineers computer. It would almost need to be a like a uniball style containment to have the strength and clearnce required for that type of setup.
11-29-2018, 01:31 AM
#32
if it were that far out the cap would have to be threaded on the backside over the shaft, i guess its possible just doesnt seem like it would hold up and be practical anywhere but an engineers computer. It would almost need to be a like a uniball style containment to have the strength and clearnce required for that type of setup.
11-29-2018, 02:35 AM
#33
My father in law has a few ofna/hong nor buggies with the same setup and from what i remember of the s2 it had the same issue of the lower ball popping out if you landed on one tire or you hit something with the tires turned.
Please dont take this as arguing with you like JQ i believe your smarter than I Am, so im sharing how i feel so you will tell me your perspective.
Please dont take this as arguing with you like JQ i believe your smarter than I Am, so im sharing how i feel so you will tell me your perspective.
11-29-2018, 02:57 AM
#34
My father in law has a few ofna/hong nor buggies with the same setup and from what i remember of the s2 it had the same issue of the lower ball popping out if you landed on one tire or you hit something with the tires turned.
Please dont take this as arguing with you like JQ i believe your smarter than I Am, so im sharing how i feel so you will tell me your perspective.
Please dont take this as arguing with you like JQ i believe your smarter than I Am, so im sharing how i feel so you will tell me your perspective.
I think the s2 didn't have that issue as it was far lighter than the ofna but surely it has its own limitations. I had a pic somewhere that shown how much droop the front suspension had, surreal.
11-29-2018, 03:00 AM
#35
HB lightning drove good too with this, as Hara will state..
or was it the 3mm chassis ?
or was it the 3mm chassis ?
Last edited by speedy2; 03-24-2022 at 08:17 AM.
11-29-2018, 03:00 AM
#36
Tech Master
11-29-2018, 03:06 AM
#37
Tech Master
Ball joint is the common and more correct name in the automotive industry.
We're not saying the current PBS has longer arm than C-hub. It can be made with longer arms, you could even put it touching the rim and still steer, something C-hub can't do. Outside the box thinking.
We're not saying the current PBS has longer arm than C-hub. It can be made with longer arms, you could even put it touching the rim and still steer, something C-hub can't do. Outside the box thinking.
11-29-2018, 03:32 AM
#39
Mp9 Pic to show what I'm saying. No further arguments from me as c-hub suspension is the best.
11-29-2018, 04:55 AM
#40
It seem trivial to me what 30Tooth tries to explain, that is the wheel has to clear every suspension part throughout the whole steering, and a c-hub assembly is obviously much wider with the hinge pinge and the supporting arm ends then a pillow ball hub. You can draw it to yourself if you can't see it in your mind or use some basic trigonometry.
11-29-2018, 11:03 AM
#42
Tech Adept
When I said hub I meant the ball cup. A recessed hub sort of, even if that puts the king pin outside of the centre. The c-hub has to be narrow and away from the wheel for steering clearance. Look at your car, the outer hinge pin is away from the wheel about 10mm right below the inner hub bearing but with the s2 design the lower ball can be put below the outer bearing and still retain clearances. Even if steering axis is funky.
Mp9 Pic to show what I'm saying. No further arguments from me as c-hub suspension is the best.
Mp9 Pic to show what I'm saying. No further arguments from me as c-hub suspension is the best.
11-29-2018, 11:13 AM
#43
Suspended
Lets not forget the cost of front hubs and knuckles are stupidly expensive in comparison to a pillow/pivot front upright
11-29-2018, 03:06 PM
#44
When I said hub I meant the ball cup. A recessed hub sort of, even if that puts the king pin outside of the centre. The c-hub has to be narrow and away from the wheel for steering clearance. Look at your car, the outer hinge pin is away from the wheel about 10mm right below the inner hub bearing but with the s2 design the lower ball can be put below the outer bearing and still retain clearances. Even if steering axis is funky.
Mp9 Pic to show what I'm saying. No further arguments from me as c-hub suspension is the best.
Mp9 Pic to show what I'm saying. No further arguments from me as c-hub suspension is the best.
03-23-2022, 07:09 AM
#45
I've been wondering the same thing JQ had a really good video describing the differences between the two and I thought it was interesting enough to try out myself. I got the tekno and the associated set them up with identical setups electronics and motors. Running same compound tires on both. I've been playing with both and have found that I can drive the associated faster easier. They are very close but so far my fastest lap times are with the associated car the steering feels very linear entering around and exiting the corner the tekno feels a little more aggressive to me I'm still playing with each one and will update this thread later. My goal is to get the tekno to surpass the associated as I just like the car better. I have just started removing the chassis braces on the tekno to play with the flex. I believe one of the reasons why the associated drive so well and is easy to drive is because it is a 3 mm chassis versus a 4 mm it has two longer chassis braces as opposed to the three and overall the chassis has more flex and the plastics are softer providing more flex. I race on a Dusty bumpy outdoor clay track.
