SCStephens

iTrader: (4)

I figured I would say hi to everyone and ask some questions. As a person who loves to tinker with things I have had a ton of fun with my recently purchased traxxas rustler (enough so that I wish I had purchased the VXL already...). I raced a little rc10 in high-school several years ago and had forgotten how much fun that "real" rc cars were.

What are the best/most commonly used cars in each of the classes and how much modification is required to be competitive?

Which are the more casual classes beyond plexspec?

Thanks!

WideOpenThrottle RC

iTrader: (86)

Scroll and read this thread, it covers a overview of every electric and nitro class so you could choose for yourself. As far as modding cars, mods aren't nescessary to be competitive for the most part.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nebraska...es-thread.html

C&B RC

iTrader: (1)

Hi & Welcome!

Your best bet is to come to the some of the races. Whether it's On-road or Off-road the racers at the plex are always helpful. The rules are in the flyers. Come see them run, talk to the guys running the class you like and away we go. Watch the "for sale" thread too. Some great deals happen there, for somebody get back into RC. Tim & Alex won't steer you wrong either, Top Notch. Plus if your an Off-roader what more could you want - A brand new INDOOR dirt track

Ok so how's that for a shameless plug

SCStephens

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the replies. I had looked at the suggested class link several times, but with more and more research the differences are starting to make sense. I have been really happy with my purchase as a tearing around, scaring the dogs, and just having fun car. I am amazed at how durable this thing is, it was going well Into the mid/high20s the other day when it hot an unseen hole in the road and promptly rolled, cartwheeled, and flipped for what seemed like forever and a good 30+ feet... landed on its wheels and kept going. I couldn't have been more impressed with it's durability.

PVoelker

iTrader: (17)

The Rustler you have is the perfect starter - My son ran his for over year in plexspec and then part of the next summer before upgrading to a different vehicle.

The Rustler shares many parts with the slash.the slash would also be a good starter vehicle to get you going in the stock short course class.

You could then have two vehicles , less extra parts needed , common tools and fasteners ETC.

PV

SCStephens

iTrader: (4)

It is nice when the cars share parts. I think if I were to buy another car I would shoot for an on-road class just to cover both sides.

C&B RC

iTrader: (1)

VTA is your best bet. It's a spec class. 25.5 motor, spec ESC, spec tires.
Older chassis works fine. Associated TC4 or newer. Tamiya TA05R (get an R or you'll end up adding shocks & universals) XRAY T2R or T3R, or a Shumacher
all have been fast on the track. VTA is a blast.

SCStephens

iTrader: (4)

I have been looking up all of the classes. It is pretty interesting what cars they have in the classes. In the TCS mini they used to have some sweet m-04 cars... now they have the fiat 500? strange to say the least. How many people are usually in each of the classes?

FroBoy

iTrader: (7)

Mini's are always a good way to start because they are fun and durable. They aren't all that fast either, so it's easier to control.

There's always at least a heat of entries for whatever class you choose.

jasons56

Jason wrote:

The first mod I suggest to any novice racer is a decent servo if your car doesn't already have one. Having a decent servo and a nice tight steering linkage can do wonders. Its not flashy or fast but it can make a world of difference to actual lap times. Driving a good line and not wrecking is worth so much more than just about anything else lap time wise its almost comical.

Bashing around your yard or parking lot it doesn't matter much, but when you get to the point when you can make 2 laps without wrecking - a good servo setup can make a huge difference.

I can't tell you how many times where a new racer is having all kinds of "handling problems" and chasing chassis setup. Usually when they let me try to drive it I can't hardly get around the track and its almost always a worn out servo or sloppy steering linkage at the root of it.
Or improper tire prep or selection. Both of these things are relatively cheap to get right.

Its hard to learn how to drive a good line if your car has a mind of its own.

I would take a Rustler with a good servo over a $250 chassis with a bad servo any day! Having good tires and a car that goes where you put it are worth more than anything else.

jasons56

Mini is a great place to start with On Road.

There are a few things you need to do to make them get around the track competitively but its simple and cheap and most of the guys will gladly help you out.

It mainly involves a couple of shims, running the car low, and glue. And they are a blast to drive.

The cheapest way is to just buy a used one that is already setup. Even old beat to death Minis are competitive.

Of course you should buy lots of stuff from the Plex to support the wonderful facility! But once you wheel a car that is setup right in a good race you'll be hooked and that won't be a problem.

FroBoy

iTrader: (7)

I put a JR 9100T in my son's rustler and it almost flips the thing over.

SCStephens

iTrader: (4)

Is the stock servo bad? I haven't messed with any linkage adjustments or anything. I feel like I can control it pretty well in the street or in the grass. I practiced doing figure eights around objects for 2 battery packs one night until I felt more comfortable with how it turned. It seems like it understeers at full throttle quite a bit but as soon as I let off it dives in and makes really sharp quick turns. The other rc I drove was a buggy which was completely different. I have started to wear the new off of the tires already from driving different lines: up the sidewalk, hard right into the street through the neighbors driveway, across the street, ramp another driveway, up another sidewalk, hard left, ramp off the curb and back to the beginning There is a pretty sweet track in my front yard that only I can see Thanks for all of the replies. I have been supporting the store through purchases of a bigger bumper, smaller pinion, new body clips, another battery, a better charger... This is getting interesting pretty quick

jasons56

That can be normal as power in a RWD makes the weight go to the rear and when you let off it goes to the front. Springs and shock oil will tune how that transition works and other settings like squat angles can affect it too. Not to scare you off with all the tech terms - but if you like to tinker you'll love this stuff.

However, a weak servo can act the same way and mask/mimic other setup issues, especially the bigger the vehicle gets.

I think one of the biggest reasons big cars (1/8 scale, truggy, etc) got popular was because servos got strong enough to work well with them.

On a 10th scale you don't HAVE to spend $100 to get a decent servo. But you will see guys running them. Some of the $30-$50 servos are pretty decent for a 10th scale vehicle.
If you are in it for the long haul a great servo is an investment because you can move it from vehicle to vehicle as you go. The big 1/8 scalers may wear them out but in my 10th scale vehicles I have good servos that have been through 5 or more years of racing. Granted, I'm not a guy that races 3 times a week either, but overall a $100 servo is cheaper than a Rustler when you consider how long it lasts.

SCStephens

iTrader: (4)

I was looking at possibly getting adjustable wheel connectors (can't remember the term but they are solid on the xl5. Would stronger rear springs/shocks prevent some of the understeer by preventing the weight from shifting as much?