396LikesTekno MT410
01-08-2017 | 05:28 AM
#391
Tech Adept
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 209
So I may have messed up. On the first two shocks(front) I drilled through the port on the top of the shock cap and not the side so I have two shocks one way and two the other, anyone see any issues here? I was going to order new caps and fix them but I thought I'd ask, I also thought about using a set screw to plug the ported hole on top of the shock and then drilling the side like the manual says. Two kids running wild through the house, it's amazing it's not built upside down.
Now I just need to pick a motor and a servo, I have a vlx-6s for an esc, before I get harassed it's the quickest and easiest way that I found to "tone" it down for my 7yo son. I haven't tried to fit it yet so it may be too big. May just get a castle 1515 2200kv, I'm all about the waterproof so that I can hose everything off at the end of the day.
Now I just need to pick a motor and a servo, I have a vlx-6s for an esc, before I get harassed it's the quickest and easiest way that I found to "tone" it down for my 7yo son. I haven't tried to fit it yet so it may be too big. May just get a castle 1515 2200kv, I'm all about the waterproof so that I can hose everything off at the end of the day.
If you wanted to plug that hole and redo the shocks you might could tape the bottom of the hole and fill the hole full of baking soda. Then add super glue into the hold to saturate all of the baking soda. This will form a hard cement should seal the hole. Then remove the tape from the bottom of the hole. After it dries then drill the hole in the side and rebuild the shocks.
Since the shocks haven't been used I would just capture and reuse the shock oil so you don't have to buy more shock oil. You can salvage most of it. Just don't get the oil dirty.
I did a little more research and looks like that hole is for building emulsion shocks.
See these videos:
http://www.insidelinerc.com/off-road...ith-ryan-lutz/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Obo_Llrm0qg
There appears to be a screw and rubber plug that can seal that hole.
You might want to buy one.
Looks like you are going to have to plug that hole in the top either way to properly build a shock according to the videos.
I also don't think you use a bladder while building emulsion shocks.
Might be a good excuse to buy the vented aluminum shock caps (TKR6003).
Make sure it says vented. There are vented and non vented aluminum shock caps.
6003b is the non vented.
If I was you I would just buy the aluminum shock caps and redo the shocks according to the instructions. That way all shocks would match and you would have a more durable part upgrade. If any of my shock caps break I will definitely upgrade to aluminum. I've not read of anyone breaking a lot of the plastic caps though.
This was my first kit so maybe someone more experienced could answer.
Look for this facebook page and join it and ask someone too
tekno rc mt410 and tekno basher owners' tips, tricks, mods, & showoff
Last edited by gwhall; 01-08-2017 at 06:24 AM.
01-08-2017 | 05:41 AM
#392
I'm not sure what the port on top is for. If you built the back shocks according to the instructions I would test the front shocks and see if they felt the same way. If they compress and rebound like the rear shocks then they are probably going to work ok.
If you wanted to plug that hole and redo the shocks you might could tape the bottom of the hole and fill the hole full of baking soda. Then add super glue into the hold to saturate all off the baking soda. This will form a hard cement should seal the hole. Then remove the tape from the bottom of the hole. After it dries then drill the hole in the side and rebuild the shocks.
Since the shocks haven't been used I would just capture and reuse the shock oil so you don't have to buy more shock oil. You can salvage most of it. Just don't get the oil dirty.
This was my first kit so maybe someone more experienced could answer.
Look for this facebook page and join it and ask someone too
tekno rc mt410 and tekno basher owners' tips, tricks, mods, & showoff
If you wanted to plug that hole and redo the shocks you might could tape the bottom of the hole and fill the hole full of baking soda. Then add super glue into the hold to saturate all off the baking soda. This will form a hard cement should seal the hole. Then remove the tape from the bottom of the hole. After it dries then drill the hole in the side and rebuild the shocks.
Since the shocks haven't been used I would just capture and reuse the shock oil so you don't have to buy more shock oil. You can salvage most of it. Just don't get the oil dirty.
This was my first kit so maybe someone more experienced could answer.
Look for this facebook page and join it and ask someone too
tekno rc mt410 and tekno basher owners' tips, tricks, mods, & showoff
http://www.insidelinerc.com/off-road...ith-ryan-lutz/
01-08-2017 | 06:17 AM
#393
Tech Adept
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 209
I edited my previous post, added more info, and included your video link. Thanks for the info.
01-08-2017 | 07:18 AM
#395
nice option...
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr8702-...lack-ano-2pcs/
Lets you build your shocks whatever method you wish.
Lets you build your shocks whatever method you wish.
01-08-2017 | 08:40 AM
#396
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 109
From: San Leon, Texas
Thanks! Any downside to running the emulsion style shock? Just wondering, I'm still trying to learn the why's of the different shock set ups. Now I just need to decide which option cap to go with.
Is there any benefit to keeping the polymer stock cap? I know that I'll get roasted as it is a somewhat ludicrous question for almost all instances, but for a brasher monster truck set up I was thinking of what would be best as far as a "weak" link. As in if I upgrade the cap to aluminum then what will now bend or break when the upgraded cap now will not "pop off", I hope this makes sense.
Next, what is everyone going with as far as servos? I've been running the xpert wp-7701's in the yeti xl's and they have done well but I thought I'd check to see if there may be a better option as the 3.8 M38's are freaking HUGE and I probably need more umph. I want a waterproof one as it's a basher, but I'm a proponent for waterproof anyway for quick hose off at the end of the day like I said. Anyway thanks for the help.
Also I contacted t-bone racing and they said they should have something out within the next few weeks. I am a huge supporter of these bumpers as with a you kid running a sct410, mbx6e, yeti 1/10, yeti xl, these bumpers have saved me tons of money in repair parts and repair time. Especially when a frien comes and says they know how to drive, yeah straight into the first immovable solid option they can find at full freaking blast, hence the basher bumpers and the traxxas esc's so I can quickly go to 50% throttle.
I'm hoping the MT410 is more hearty than the "glass Joe" nature of the yeti's. Yeah, that's an old guy reference lol. I've about reached the threshold of working on yeti's.... anyway, thanks again.
Is there any benefit to keeping the polymer stock cap? I know that I'll get roasted as it is a somewhat ludicrous question for almost all instances, but for a brasher monster truck set up I was thinking of what would be best as far as a "weak" link. As in if I upgrade the cap to aluminum then what will now bend or break when the upgraded cap now will not "pop off", I hope this makes sense.
Next, what is everyone going with as far as servos? I've been running the xpert wp-7701's in the yeti xl's and they have done well but I thought I'd check to see if there may be a better option as the 3.8 M38's are freaking HUGE and I probably need more umph. I want a waterproof one as it's a basher, but I'm a proponent for waterproof anyway for quick hose off at the end of the day like I said. Anyway thanks for the help.
Also I contacted t-bone racing and they said they should have something out within the next few weeks. I am a huge supporter of these bumpers as with a you kid running a sct410, mbx6e, yeti 1/10, yeti xl, these bumpers have saved me tons of money in repair parts and repair time. Especially when a frien comes and says they know how to drive, yeah straight into the first immovable solid option they can find at full freaking blast, hence the basher bumpers and the traxxas esc's so I can quickly go to 50% throttle.
I'm hoping the MT410 is more hearty than the "glass Joe" nature of the yeti's. Yeah, that's an old guy reference lol. I've about reached the threshold of working on yeti's.... anyway, thanks again.
01-08-2017 | 11:30 AM
#397
Tech Addict
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 685
From: Ramona, CA
Also I contacted t-bone racing and they said they should have something out within the next few weeks. I am a huge supporter of these bumpers as with a you kid running a sct410, mbx6e, yeti 1/10, yeti xl, these bumpers have saved me tons of money in repair parts and repair time. Especially when a frien comes and says they know how to drive, yeah straight into the first immovable solid option they can find at full freaking blast, hence the basher bumpers and the traxxas esc's so I can quickly go to 50% throttle.
I'm hoping the MT410 is more hearty than the "glass Joe" nature of the yeti's. Yeah, that's an old guy reference lol. I've about reached the threshold of working on yeti's.... anyway, thanks again.
I'm hoping the MT410 is more hearty than the "glass Joe" nature of the yeti's. Yeah, that's an old guy reference lol. I've about reached the threshold of working on yeti's.... anyway, thanks again.
01-09-2017 | 08:16 AM
#399
Tech Master
iTrader: (43)
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,908
From: WI
How are peps liking this truck? Looks amazing! Watched a video of a gent racing one against 8th scale ebuggys in which he was laying down the pace. Obviously the fella is a great driver, however this truck definitely is not the normal monster truck as it surely is highly capable of running race worthy on tracks. Never thought about a monster truck until I the Teckno cam out. Love the idea of having a monster basher that also can easily handle running 8th scale tracks. What KV motor are peps liking?
01-09-2017 | 10:36 AM
#400
How are peps liking this truck? Looks amazing! Watched a video of a gent racing one against 8th scale ebuggys in which he was laying down the pace. Obviously the fella is a great driver, however this truck definitely is not the normal monster truck as it surely is highly capable of running race worthy on tracks. Never thought about a monster truck until I the Teckno cam out. Love the idea of having a monster basher that also can easily handle running 8th scale tracks. What KV motor are peps liking?
The reason for that. Is that truggies and buggies perform and handle like no other. That's why they are the product of choice to race. But more over the idea of having a truggy or buggy to handle rougher terrain other than a smooth track like surface and yet keep its race like characteristics ha's been the goal to achieve for some time now.
Tekno has provided and absolute beast of of kit. One that will for sure be a go to product for quality and performance. Yet provide incredible durability.
Monster Truck racing was a big thing in the 90s but died off. With this Tekno MT410 and others alike from other companies. We may see MT racing again at a Local Track near you.
As for the Motor KV. Most are using a 1900kv -2200kv
01-09-2017 | 12:04 PM
#401
Tech Master
iTrader: (43)
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,908
From: WI
Well, it's a 1/8 Buggy with long arms and massive shoes/tires. Truly a few more parts to be honest. Tekno is not the first to do this or have a buggy/truggy Monster Truck conversion. ARRMA has done this for a few years now. Based on the Team Durango 8 scale lineup. In RTR form, but prior to these. Others were doing custom builds. Myself included, with an RC8.2-MT and RC8T-MT conversions still in my fleet of RC's. In short these conversions have been around for awhile.
The reason for that. Is that truggies and buggies perform and handle like no other. That's why they are the product of choice to race. But more over the idea of having a truggy or buggy to handle rougher terrain other than a smooth track like surface and yet keep its race like characteristics ha's been the goal to achieve for some time now.
Tekno has provided and absolute beast of of kit. One that will for sure be a go to product for quality and performance. Yet provide incredible durability.
Monster Truck racing was a big thing in the 90s but died off. With this Tekno MT410 and others alike from other companies. We may see MT racing again at a Local Track near you.
As for the Motor KV. Most are using a 1900kv -2200kv
The reason for that. Is that truggies and buggies perform and handle like no other. That's why they are the product of choice to race. But more over the idea of having a truggy or buggy to handle rougher terrain other than a smooth track like surface and yet keep its race like characteristics ha's been the goal to achieve for some time now.
Tekno has provided and absolute beast of of kit. One that will for sure be a go to product for quality and performance. Yet provide incredible durability.
Monster Truck racing was a big thing in the 90s but died off. With this Tekno MT410 and others alike from other companies. We may see MT racing again at a Local Track near you.
As for the Motor KV. Most are using a 1900kv -2200kv
01-10-2017 | 08:38 PM
#402
Thanks! Any downside to running the emulsion style shock? Just wondering, I'm still trying to learn the why's of the different shock set ups. Now I just need to decide which option cap to go with.
I prefere an emulsion style shock. It is easier to build and you get a constant rebound every time which is dead. Dead means that when you push in the shock shaft it doesn't rebound. When you build a standard or vented shock you have to set rebound and it's difficult to get all 4 shocks with the same rebound. That is my .02
Is there any benefit to keeping the polymer stock cap? I know that I'll get roasted as it is a somewhat ludicrous question for almost all instances, but for a brasher monster truck set up I was thinking of what would be best as far as a "weak" link. As in if I upgrade the cap to aluminum then what will now bend or break when the upgraded cap now will not "pop off", I hope this makes sense.
The polymer shock caps are actually quite strong. The caps will be protected because of the body, the cap shouldn't hit the ground in a crash. I have run polymer caps on my 1/8 scale buggy and they still didn't break when I crashed. You could have the best of both worlds and buy the new aluminum coat that were referenced above. You can build the shock any way including emulsion. In the past, if you wanted to rum emulsion shocks from Tekno, you had to buy new caps. (if you owned an 1/8 buggy at least)
Next, what is everyone going with as far as servos? I've been running the xpert wp-7701's in the yeti xl's and they have done well but I thought I'd check to see if there may be a better option as the 3.8 M38's are freaking HUGE and I probably need more umph. I want a waterproof one as it's a basher, but I'm a proponent for waterproof anyway for quick hose off at the end of the day like I said. Anyway thanks for the help.
Also I contacted t-bone racing and they said they should have something out within the next few weeks. I am a huge supporter of these bumpers as with a you kid running a sct410, mbx6e, yeti 1/10, yeti xl, these bumpers have saved me tons of money in repair parts and repair time. Especially when a frien comes and says they know how to drive, yeah straight into the first immovable solid option they can find at full freaking blast, hence the basher bumpers and the traxxas esc's so I can quickly go to 50% throttle.
I'm hoping the MT410 is more hearty than the "glass Joe" nature of the yeti's. Yeah, that's an old guy reference lol. I've about reached the threshold of working on yeti's.... anyway, thanks again.
I prefere an emulsion style shock. It is easier to build and you get a constant rebound every time which is dead. Dead means that when you push in the shock shaft it doesn't rebound. When you build a standard or vented shock you have to set rebound and it's difficult to get all 4 shocks with the same rebound. That is my .02
Is there any benefit to keeping the polymer stock cap? I know that I'll get roasted as it is a somewhat ludicrous question for almost all instances, but for a brasher monster truck set up I was thinking of what would be best as far as a "weak" link. As in if I upgrade the cap to aluminum then what will now bend or break when the upgraded cap now will not "pop off", I hope this makes sense.
The polymer shock caps are actually quite strong. The caps will be protected because of the body, the cap shouldn't hit the ground in a crash. I have run polymer caps on my 1/8 scale buggy and they still didn't break when I crashed. You could have the best of both worlds and buy the new aluminum coat that were referenced above. You can build the shock any way including emulsion. In the past, if you wanted to rum emulsion shocks from Tekno, you had to buy new caps. (if you owned an 1/8 buggy at least)
Next, what is everyone going with as far as servos? I've been running the xpert wp-7701's in the yeti xl's and they have done well but I thought I'd check to see if there may be a better option as the 3.8 M38's are freaking HUGE and I probably need more umph. I want a waterproof one as it's a basher, but I'm a proponent for waterproof anyway for quick hose off at the end of the day like I said. Anyway thanks for the help.
Also I contacted t-bone racing and they said they should have something out within the next few weeks. I am a huge supporter of these bumpers as with a you kid running a sct410, mbx6e, yeti 1/10, yeti xl, these bumpers have saved me tons of money in repair parts and repair time. Especially when a frien comes and says they know how to drive, yeah straight into the first immovable solid option they can find at full freaking blast, hence the basher bumpers and the traxxas esc's so I can quickly go to 50% throttle.
I'm hoping the MT410 is more hearty than the "glass Joe" nature of the yeti's. Yeah, that's an old guy reference lol. I've about reached the threshold of working on yeti's.... anyway, thanks again.
01-11-2017 | 01:20 PM
#405
Tech Master
iTrader: (43)
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,908
From: WI
What is all neede to build with the longer wheelbase. ET48.3 chassis I assume. If somone could provide part numbers for ever ting needed that would be great. Wondering if the truck drives better regarding running on tracks vs tricks and bashing with switching to a longer wheelbase.
Any help would be great as I would prefer to build with the longer wheelbase from the start.
Watching savage Sam race this truck in its stock set up thus with truggy tire's was highly impressive, thus again I am wondering if going to the truggy chassis would make it even more stable per racing on tracks.
Thank you
Any help would be great as I would prefer to build with the longer wheelbase from the start.
Watching savage Sam race this truck in its stock set up thus with truggy tire's was highly impressive, thus again I am wondering if going to the truggy chassis would make it even more stable per racing on tracks.
Thank you