Figured we'll start this off.

I'll go ahead and thank my local RedCat dealer here, for helping out and being available at any time. Great guy to deal with. His FaceBook page here.








Problems I had with my RedCat rebranded version out of the box:
-Braking is set to 70% out of the box. Way too harsh without any slip in the drivetrain (this truck has no slipper or center diff). Flipped end over end anytime on the brakes with the slightest tap. Reprogrammed to 25%, perfect.
-Toe adjustment front and rear was ALL fudgey. Toe in up front, toe out in rear. When it threw the front wheels, it was uncontrollable. When it came down and you needed to turn, it hardly responded. Adjusted with a wrench to have 2 degrees toe in on rear, 2 degrees out on the front, behaves very well now. Could probably go with zero all the way around, but with adjustable links, why stop at zero??
-Had to calibrate throttle end points with the ESC out of the box. Seems like an assembly oversight, just like the rest of my issues mentioned.
-Body posts need to be changed out. They're rigid, and don't like being bent. They'll hold their bend like cheap soft aluminum. I'll be swapping these out for RPM Slash 4x4 extended body mounts, and I'll use some random tie rods that I have lying around to make cross braces for the posts.


Driving it:
This thing is a BLAST!! I've always had truck's with slipper clutches or center differentials, and this is actually really fun with it being locked shaft. I don't know how well the rest of the drive line will take the punishment (already seen YouTube videos of the E5 having the pins in the rear drive shaft coming out), but I'll give it a good run and report any and all failures.

Turns pretty well, differentials are tuned pretty well. Front is slightly thicker oil than rear. Shocks are setup well... very well. Actually not going to say they need to be touched at all. Preload and everything is good to go out of the box.

Wheelie bar has a nice bearing raced wheel, but it's pretty high up. Truck will just roll over the whole bar very easily on throttle. If you control your wheelie, it works well enough.

Overall:
The RedCat body is a bit longer front and rear than the team magic one, and it collides a little bit with the large front bumper just a bit. Fit and finish otherwise is spot on.
After the first few runs so far, I can recommend it.


Details:
-CVD on front and rear
-mod 1 gear's
-14mm wheel hexes (looks easy to get 12mm or 17mm adapters to fit)
-Standard 2.8 sized wheels and tires
-Seems to be standard 1/10 monster truck body sized
-540 motor, HobbyWing 80a ESC
-Aluminum shock towers front and rear
-Pillow balls front and rear, adjustable front and rear toe
-Fairly large battery tray. Could easily fit a large 3s pack (4500mah+). Velcro strap downs, easy to

Condensing multiple posts from URC into this one OP:
-Truck comes with deans knockoff plugs (T-plugs, as they call it), not the EC5 plugs in my pictures. I soldered those in place.

-A lot of the ESC programming was waayy too wild and wooly for this truck.
Here is my setup, which provides an enjoyable driving experience on 3s (with a good throttle finger).
Based off of the MT10e manual in the box:
1. Running Mode (leave as option #2)
2. LiPo Cells (leave as option #1)
3. Low Voltage Cutoff (set to option #4)
4. ESC Thermal Protection (leave as option #1)
5. Motor Thermal Protection (cannot change)
6. Motor Rotation (set as either #1 or #2, I had to change mine to #2 because I was fiddling with the remote and forgot what it was set to)
7. BEC Voltage (set to option #2, servo handles the voltage so far)
8. Brake Force (set to option #2, or #3 if you can handle feathering the trigger)
9. Reverse Force (set to option #1)
10. Start Mode (Punch) (change this as you see fit. Play with all levels. I can handle 5, you may not be able to)
11. Drag Brake (leave as option #1)

With that re-program, the truck behaves much better on the brakes, and won't kill your batteries from over-discharge.



Let's get this thread rolling with any questions, and additional picture requests. Weather has been terrible here in Jacksonville here the last 3 days.

As of 21SEP.

This truck is, unfortunately, still following the RTR mantra. Ready To Reassemble.

The rear shock piston retainer screw, holding the piston to the shock shaft, came off in the shock during a run in a rough field. I'll have to rebuild all 4 shocks to make sure that they're put together right now.
Also, the bearings are of garbage grade. One of the rear knuckles is pretty stiff to rotate, and was causing some odd driving behavior. I'll be swapping everything out for avid hybrid bearings when I get home to my tools. I'm trying to get a list from RedCat of all of the bearings in the truck, but otherwise I'll just use the exploded views in the manual and manually make a list of all the bearings, of which I'll post up here and on URC.

Also, I happened to order the ProLine SCT410 extended body mounts, not Slash 4x4. They fit perfectly none the less, so that's what I'll recommend. Going to be odd trying to get a tie-rod between them, as the screw holes are facing each other. May have to drill into the side of the body posts to get a brace between them, or just run them standing up on their own, without lateral bracing. I'm more game for braces rather than relying on rigidity.

-edit-

I have been in contact with Erik from RedCat through e-mails, just keeping him posted on errors I'm running into while running so far. He's sent me 2 new assembled stock shocks to have as spares in the event that I bend one, while I'm thromping this one around on 3s for it's life. Very courteous guys over there, and I'm actually enjoying that they communicate as people, instead of automating everything to get back to you.

If this is how their customer service is, quick and courteous, and it stays this way, I may have found a new favorite distributor in the U.S., here.

How did you program the ESC? I don't see a button on the top like the manual says. I assumed maybe my Hobbywing LCD program box would work. But that didn't seem to work either. Though I'm thinking I might not have hooked it up properly because I didn't spend much time trying. I also found the break to be way too much. Especially on concrete with 3S lipo, where even the slightest tap of the break will front flip you.


As far as my experience with the truck. I love it, but it's my first RC truck. I started with helis and moved to airplanes and then dabbled in racing quads. Only recently got a RC truck after reminiscing with my cousin about the old days when we were kids playing with Tyco bandits. Compared to that, this is just as hobby grade as I could expect for the cost. But I did have some issues too. On my first run the front right shock came apart. I thought it was broken after watching some youtube videos and having this happen. But it turned out it was just a poor assembly issue. No thread lock on the internal shock bolts. After I fixed that, I had my rear drive cup lock pin come out and eat up some of the frame. That happened even though i took the truck apart and made sure the lockpin was thread locked when i first got it. I would recommend using higher temperature thread lock, like red #272 loctite which has a 450°F performing temperature max instead of around 300° like most blue lockers (like #242). Either way I think heat shrink around the drive cup is almost necessary to help keep the lockpin in place. At least it can't hurt.

any other owners on here?

I landed here on this post since Google's default search settings are date BLiND! Figured I'd add a "decade-later" owner post. I picked an MT10e up from a friend as a roller with 2 complete sets of new wheels and tires for $40 U.S. He wouldnt leave the stock radio, servo, motor, and ESC in the truck! His loss since the truck he moved the running gear to cant be geared for the high KV motor out of an MT10e and so is over revving and overheating! 😆! I had a spare Spektrum DX3, 85a Smart ESC, AK47 servo, and a new HPI Flux 3652 - 4000KV motor laying around, which were a perfect match for this truck.
I've seen the Team Magic truck and wow it's a beautiful piece of kit! As are the hop ups... but rather a lot of coin they are. Redcat currently has the MT10e parts on CLEARANCE, not every part still in stock, but most are there! Some good deals on upgraded parts and spares. I scooped a center diff on the bay for $30 U.S. but haven't installed it yet.
I also changed my Toe. I shimmed my upper Arms to get rid of some sloppyness i assume came from long term wear and tear. Upgrades I ordered on clearance are: sway bar kits front and rear, some extra fan screens, metal rear skid, rear wing (to use with a truggy body I have spare that fits it, I also grabbed an HSP monster truck body for it on Ali for $16 U.S. shipped, the original body is old, beat, and brittle) and I grabbed the alloy hubs, the alloy hubs don't include hardware or pillow balls so have to bring over the OEM stuff. Mine were well worn so I grabbed a couple sets of new plastic hub kits for the new hardware.
I went with your advice and replaced a lot of the ball bearings with spares, so far it really made an obvious difference, tightening up a lot of loosey goosey wobbly bobbly action! The shocks seem like they are as they were new and feel really good, surprisingly. The sway bars helped the truck handle better and I also pushed the shocks to their lowest possible positions. I have jumped, flipped, bashed, and even ran this truck in the sand at Kill Devil Hills Sand Dunes N.C., U.S.A. where the Wright Brothers made the first powered airplane flight! (Really more a glider with some "DONT WRECK IT" controller surfaces! Lol. The truck has taken some bashing I would never have attempted with my original Traxxas Stampede VXL 4wd, like i havent ever flipped the VXL or ran it in sand, but the MT10e took to jumping like my Arrma Kraton but i mean jumping 100 to 200 foot dunes!!! 🤣 And it liked the sand as much as my trusty old sandrails, my Vaterra Glamis Fear, Kyosho Optima, and Turbo Optima! I did eventually put a "just in case it needs it" fan on my motor and included one of the MT10e fan screens on the fan, but used a thermistor so it only turns on if the motor needs it so the motor doesnt run cold all the time. I run 3s 5200mAh 50c hard case battz in it turned on their side.
Its been a really fun and well built machine, so much so my RC buddy grabbed one as well! We love jumping and bashing them like crazy people! He stated that they seem like a quality 1/8 truck just shrunk down to 1/10 and I kinda agree! Its a really well built piece of kit with lots of details you don't usually see on trucks that cost more.
All in all I did not spend very much but ended up with a truck that outperforms, out-features, & and outlasts anything I could have paid a lot more for new. The truck looks great and performance is tops. I am a happy basher!
Well, anyway, let the teasing commence for my decade later reply to a post so old that if it were wine it might even taste good!!!! 🤣 (Franken-reply🧌!)