JCarr

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the reply, I wouldn't think I'd have to worry about the housings catching on much with a monster truck, but it could happen. After doing more reading, I think I'm leaning towards full housings. It sounds like the plastic housings tend to lose their tolerance around the pinion bearing and that's what's causing a lot of gear failures.

JCarr

iTrader: (2)

So, I started building my truck last night, as much as I could since I'm still waiting for the SWB kit. Anyway, I built the axles and as this is my first SA build, I'm curious if it is normal to need to shim the pinion on the driveshaft side for smooth operation? I'm using the 13/43 gears and when I put it together, I noticed it was smoothest when I was pulling the pinion shaft out away from the diff. That just seemed odd to me so I figured I'd ask before I got too deep into the build. Thanks

Herc Driver

iTrader: (8)

Awesome

JCarr

iTrader: (2)

I got the Jconcepts 17t brushed motor and HW 1080 esc for my rig. Anybody else running this setup and any tips or tricks I should be aware of? Instruction that came with the motor actually tell you not to do a break in on the motor, which I found kinda odd.

themountain

Why??
Nowadays all brushed motors are already "run in" so no need for that.
On another note I wonder what you do with this combo in a Monster truck ??
Go brushless or GO HOME !

JCarr

iTrader: (2)

Why? because the last time I ran brushed, it was required for good brush life and a fast motor. Not ALL brushed motors are run in to my knowledge, if they are it's not much. I break in the motors on my spec slash and they always get better. Why would I run a brushed combo in monster truck? Because that is the rules for the class I plan to run in. https://triggerkingrc.com/trigger-ki...odified-rules/ If I decide I want to run brushless, I'll get an LMT as it was made for it.

themountain

Was that before 2000 ?

JCarr

iTrader: (2)

Did some test runs on my truck the other day. Things I learned in the quick blast around my living room and driveway. 1 Everyone is correct, the stock servo saver sucks, wheels barely turn when sitting still, but seemed ok when in motion. I have a Kimbrough 124 saver now, just need to put it on. 2 It's not nearly as tippy as I thought it would be, I did some pretty sharp S turns with it and it didn't even lift a wheel. Granted the battery I was testing with was only at storage charge, but I was still impressed. A fully charged battery will probably bring on the tippyness I'm expecting. 3 It's not as noisy as I expected with a all metal trans, the tires make more noise than the drivetrain does. So far I'm pretty pleased with the truck, I'm looking forward to getting it finished and dialing it in more before I go to an event in November to make my solid axle MT racing debut.

JCarr

iTrader: (2)

So, I put the 124 servo saver on the truck and tested it out. Honestly, not much of an improvement over stock, the steering still felt sluggish. I removed the saver and put on an aluminum horn and that was much better. I did charge the battery to full, before trying each saver and then with no saver to eliminate the possibility that low voltage was the issue. Doing full throttle runs up and down the street and full lock turns, it still didn't lift a tire. Either I've hit a magical setup by dumb luck or this thing is way slow, I don't have anyone else running one in my area yet to compare to. I'm hoping to change that soon though.

JCarr

iTrader: (2)

I'm sure this is a long shot, but would anyone happen to know the difference in weight between the vanquish stage 1 kit and the stock pieces? I can't seem to find a weight for the stage 1 kit anywhere. Also curious about an aluminum center skid weight. I will more than likely be getting these parts no matter what, but curious as to how much weight this will add.

JCarr

iTrader: (2)

Has anyone found a smaller spur that fits on this truck? I'd like to fit something in the 50-54 tooth range.

AHR43

Hey JCarr. Catching up on this thread as my SMT10 Raw Builder's Kit is about finished. Like you, building to the T.K. Outlaw Retro rules package. Won't be making any events but do watch their website and Y.T. vids. Using selected T.K. course set ups that will fit in the back yard for running my trucks.

Negatory on a smaller tooth-count spur. Have started putting together a parts list for a Super Mod Class tranny build. Haven't done a deep dive on an aftermarket spur yet. If coming across one in a search, I'll post it up here.

Regards. 'AC'

AHR43

Would this be an option to consider if you cannot find a suitable spur? Changing out the bevel gear sets (FR and RR) from Axial standard 2.92 to Axial option 2.57. Pricey and more permanent than a spur change but perhaps a last resort gearing up option.

Just throwing it out there for what it's worth. Don't even know if it will work for what you want. Came across it fleshing out a parts list for the tranny build. 'AC'
[Edit: see now RC4WD also offers a 36/14 at $19.99]

Axial Bevel Gear Set

JCarr

iTrader: (2)

I have seen that and think it's probably my only option besides the SSD high speed transmission. I actually have the lower gear bevel gear sets in my axles right now because that was recommended to combat the torque twist. I'm wondering if that is really needed with such a low power 17t brushed motor?
Just a heads up, I know you said you wouldn't be going to any events(I highly recommend you do, if you get a chance) but, the SMT10 wouldn't be legal for the outlaw retro class(no 4 link suspension).

AHR43

Hey JCarr. Glad you looked in again and thanks for the 'likes'. Interested in following along as you progress. Seems like we're tracking with similar builds.

Right you are on the SMT10 not legal for the Retro Outlaw class. I wasn't sure about that as I'm new to the MT scene. Thanks.

Regarding torque twist. Anticipating that with the no track bar rules for Retro Outlaw. What I have seen on Y.T. is that installing track bars RR and FR reduces it considerably. At least in regard to 27T and 17T applications. Don't know about Pro Mod classes. I'm staying away from that other than watching it on Y.T. Beyond my skill level at my advanced age.

What I've done for my back yard course is provide a waiver for class entry and dock the SMT10 2points off the top of its event score. Part of my decision to eventually migrate it to Sport Mod class. The option tranny in the build will use a 17T brush motor. That's on hold right now. Key part of the build-Axial tranny case set on back-order. Not due in until Oct.

I do like the Trigger King rues package as it tends to keep costs down and the track layouts simple. For the really wild stuff, I look to JConcepts rules package Stage 4 with my MT10. But that's not for this thread.

No MT action that I am aware of anywhere near the Houston area. Yeah, I would at least go if there were some. Most everything around here is big track big event 1/8 scale action. Been there, done that. Not my style anymore. That and it's hard for me to get out and about for travel. Pretty much do what I can at home.

Guess that's it for now. Paint coming this week to finish out the body and then the SMT10 will be ready for track testing. Cheers and Regards. 'AC'