All - need some ideas on this one. I pulled out an old monster pirate, cleaned it all up and am converting it to brushless.

But I'm at a loss for ideas where to put the battery(ies). It's going to be a 4S either one pack or two if I can figure out how. The ESC will go on the flat part of the motor mount.

Thoughts/Ideas???

need a picture

Are they not showing up for you? When I view the thread there's 4 that I posted/showing.

Possible saddle packs under the motor and behind the servo with the wire straddling the driveshaft?

I've never used a saddle pack before - good idea. Do you have any recommendations?

Probably going to have to remove the throttle servo mount, and use a custom mount for the steering servo, then put the batteries behind the steering servo on the other side of the motor.

nice clean base ! looks fun !

i would put the motor as low as possible on the RIGHT side and the pack on the LEFT side also very low

Yeah I though of cutting that bracket in half because I only need the steering servo mount.

I tried putting the motor on the right but it would require more hacking/fabrication than I wanted (I like to try an keep stock as much as possible) .

Based on dimensions I think this would fit under the motor and on the right side of the rear drive shaft.

I could wires these (or similar) to 4s right?

http://spcracingbatteries.com/index....&product_id=75

Pics are not showing up for me either, but I am a massive Dominator/Monster Pirate fan. It was my 1st hobby grade RC, and I have a hybrid build I am doing with a brushless conversion from RC Monster. I will post up some pics for tonight when I get home.

I can understand wanting to keep it as stock as possible and not make new holes in the chassis. That's gotta be one of the cleanest Pirates I've seen in a long time. Personally I wouldn't cut the servo tray down. I'd remove it and the unnecessary stand offs and make a new plate for the steering servo. Just trace out the old plate onto a new piece of aluminum, break out the hacksaw and Dremel (router bit to cut out servo opening) and go to town.

But either way your going to have to drill some holes on the right side of the chassis, whether it's for the battery tray or the motor mount. To keep the holes small, consider modding the motor mount with a slot where the motor attaches so mesh can be adjusted at the motor instead of moving the mount on the chassis to adjust mesh. Then you'd only need 3 or 4 small holes (instead of slots) on the right side of the chassis.

Alternatively you could do the saddle pack idea with your current layout. But instead of the esc being mounted above the motor, place it in front of the motor. Then you can use that shelf to help mount a battery tray above the center diff. The front of the tray could mount to the esc shelf and figure out a bracket to attach the rear of the tray to the rear bulkhead. Obviously the lower you can put the batteries the better but this is an option.

Really? I have that RC Monster mount too...but couldn't get it to work/align with the rear bearing on the center diff so the rear doggone kept binding. You mean this one right - http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...RT%2FMutilator

Odd - here's direct links to the images that should be showing...

https://copy.com/PYLdEVhlCFIB6DrE

https://copy.com/RKuxNZDBLnzOnwF1

https://copy.com/rNZHOll3ymqDDZJm

https://copy.com/DszGgGa9hhMeSSMG

I like your ideas...thank you! I'm ok with drilling holes in the chassis, no issues there, just didn't want to start hacking into it, etc.

Thanks to all for the comments on the cleanliness - this was given to me...it certainly didn't look like that when I got it....

Nitro was gelled, etc....

https://copy.com/oZKugST0SREkrAfH

Ok I just figured out how to do this without drilling any extra holes in the chassis. But if you can't cut new parts out of a sheet of 3mm or 1/8 aluminum this isn't going to work for you. You'll need a hacksaw to cut the outer shape and possibly a Dremel with the routing bit to cut out any inside holes and a drill.

Ok first I think you should lay the steering servo on its side. Have a look (google image is an easy way) at the Ofna MBX 1/8 buggy for inspiration. What we're going to do is use stand offs and mount a plate above the servo just like the MBX, and that plate is going to extend to the rear of the chassis and use the old radio box holes for more stand offs to support the plate in the rear. You can then attach any 1/8 buggy battery tray to that plate without drilling new holes in the chassis and the tray can extend over the steering servo without issue. The steering servo gets attached to the new plate (not the chassis) with a set of Team Associated B4 steering servo mounts, essentially hanging the servo from the new plate just like the MBX.

So start by removing the steering servo and the plate it sits on. Measure the servo and add 1/8-1/4 inch, find or make stand offs close to this dimension. With everything removed from the right side of the chassis cut some cardboard to shape. You want to use as many of the holes on this side as possible so it's good and strong and make sure it's big enough so attaching the battery tray to it is easy. You can always cut more off later. Drill holes in the cardboard and mount it to the stand offs. Once you're happy with the cardboard template transfer it to your aluminum sheet and start cutting.

In my opinion this configuration offers the best compromise between not modifying the chassis and keeping the battery as low as possible. The battery will be only as high as the servo. Alternatively you could have the battery tray on an angle with the front higher to go over the servo and the back lower to the chassis. Either way you can use a standard size 4s pack instead of a saddle pack arrangement.