Originally Posted by jbsmith05 (Post 14192675)

I like your ideas...thank you! I'm ok with drilling holes in the chassis, no issues there, just didn't want to start hacking into it, etc.

Thanks to all for the comments on the cleanliness - this was given to me...it certainly didn't look like that when I got it....

Nitro was gelled, etc....

https://copy.com/oZKugST0SREkrAfH

https://copy.com/oZKugST0SREkrAfH

Originally Posted by Overdriven (Post 14192709)

Sorry for the long post. It made me miss this one! Well the truck really did clean up nice. I'm just really surprised the anodizing isn't faded and stuff like that, that's really what I meant.

Originally Posted by Overdriven (Post 14192693)

Ok I just figured out how to do this without drilling any extra holes in the chassis. But if you can't cut new parts out of a sheet of 3mm or 1/8 aluminum this isn't going to work for you. You'll need a hacksaw to cut the outer shape and possibly a Dremel with the routing bit to cut out any inside holes and a drill.

Ok first I think you should lay the steering servo on its side. Have a look (google image is an easy way) at the Ofna MBX 1/8 buggy for inspiration. What we're going to do is use stand offs and mount a plate above the servo just like the MBX, and that plate is going to extend to the rear of the chassis and use the old radio box holes for more stand offs to support the plate in the rear. You can then attach any 1/8 buggy battery tray to that plate without drilling new holes in the chassis and the tray can extend over the steering servo without issue. The steering servo gets attached to the new plate (not the chassis) with a set of Team Associated B4 steering servo mounts, essentially hanging the servo from the new plate just like the MBX.

Originally Posted by jbsmith05 (Post 14192809)

Ok I googled some images of the MBX...I get it now. I think what I can do is buy some more standoffs that are like what's holding the current servo bracket on/up.

Originally Posted by jbsmith05 (Post 14192809)

I can then either fabricate some additional standoffs...and make them the mount for the servo (thinking square aluminum rod with holes to run 4 screws through to mount the steering servo through).

Originally Posted by jbsmith05 (Post 14192809)

One question - is a 4S battery the same length and width as a 2S - just thicker?

Originally Posted by DarkSammy (Post 14193217)

Pics show for me now, must have been my work PC... Wish I had known you were going to do the conversion mate, the CRT Conversion by RC Monster fits perfect...

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...3_185558_1.jpg

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...703_184644.jpg

BUT it looks like you have done an amazing job yourself which makes it a million times better anyway! Nothing better than the mock-up of a custom part and the feeling it gives you making it a reality. Keep us posted on how it goes mate. The massive weak point with the Monster Pirate/Dominator trucks were always their front & rear diffs. The diff case in stock form only has 2 screws, they offered an upgraded cnc diff that incorporated 4 screws and was a much better design, but they are very scarce these days and long discontinued...

Originally Posted by Overdriven (Post 14192914)

Like I said I'd measure the height of the servo when it's on its side and add just a little wiggle room. I don't know the height of the stand offs you have now but I'd try to get the battery tray as low as possible which may mean shorter stand offs than what you have now.



I love making stuff. But the B4 mounts are under $15 making them a cheap time saver. Personally I don't think the servo mounts need to bolt through the chassis. As long as you make the servo/battery tray plate out of a decently hard aluminum that's at least 1/8 or 3mm thick it won't flex. It's up to you though, nothing wrong with overkill.



Yup. 4s is just taller. Standard lipo dimensions are about 140mm long by 45mm wide. Height depends on cell count and the mah. 1/8 buggy/truggy battery trays are at least this dimension inside. With most 1/8 trays you can also put two 2s packs on their side depending on the packs and where the wires exit the pack.

Originally Posted by DarkSammy (Post 14194044)

The front mount is an old Powerline hupup piece they made for the Dominator/Pirate. In the last 10 years or so I have only ever seen 2 of them. They were a direct replacement for the plastic stock ones... Unfortunately Powerline are long out of business so unavailable these days. Your issue is with the Mutilator mount I think, as the Powerline Mounts have the exact same dimensions as the stock parts. CRT Mount fits perfect, but that is irrelevant anyway, as you made your own and you should be proud of that, looks sturdy!

Originally Posted by Overdriven (Post 14192693)

Ok I just figured out how to do this without drilling any extra holes in the chassis. But if you can't cut new parts out of a sheet of 3mm or 1/8 aluminum this isn't going to work for you. You'll need a hacksaw to cut the outer shape and possibly a Dremel with the routing bit to cut out any inside holes and a drill.

Ok first I think you should lay the steering servo on its side. Have a look (google image is an easy way) at the Ofna MBX 1/8 buggy for inspiration. What we're going to do is use stand offs and mount a plate above the servo just like the MBX, and that plate is going to extend to the rear of the chassis and use the old radio box holes for more stand offs to support the plate in the rear. You can then attach any 1/8 buggy battery tray to that plate without drilling new holes in the chassis and the tray can extend over the steering servo without issue. The steering servo gets attached to the new plate (not the chassis) with a set of Team Associated B4 steering servo mounts, essentially hanging the servo from the new plate just like the MBX.

So start by removing the steering servo and the plate it sits on. Measure the servo and add 1/8-1/4 inch, find or make stand offs close to this dimension. With everything removed from the right side of the chassis cut some cardboard to shape. You want to use as many of the holes on this side as possible so it's good and strong and make sure it's big enough so attaching the battery tray to it is easy. You can always cut more off later. Drill holes in the cardboard and mount it to the stand offs. Once you're happy with the cardboard template transfer it to your aluminum sheet and start cutting.

In my opinion this configuration offers the best compromise between not modifying the chassis and keeping the battery as low as possible. The battery will be only as high as the servo. Alternatively you could have the battery tray on an angle with the front higher to go over the servo and the back lower to the chassis. Either way you can use a standard size 4s pack instead of a saddle pack arrangement.

Originally Posted by DarkSammy (Post 14203581)

Running a different servo saver too? Post looks blue on the right hand side now...