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Old 05-01-2015, 03:54 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Dive1Ocean
Yea, I realized that when I did the front.. New questions.. On the front I had to screw the ball knuckles in a little farther than the rear because when I put the driveshaft in the upper arm would not quite reach the chassis.. my steering linkages are also too short now.. lol.. domino effect.. How is the truck supposed to sit.. suspension wise? Before if you looked at it eye level the arms had a decent down angle to them.. now its more of a level look. Also the new arms were pretty tight and now the suspension seems a little unresponsive.. actually I can push the truck down slightly and it stays, no rebound unless I bottom it out then it will rebound slightly..

I just changed out stuff on my 3906 also.
I put the true track on and 3908 knuckles up front and different cvds.

The suspension changed dramatically. The arms are much much more level now vs the inverted V it was before. I even switched my springs back to the heavier ones to compensate but the arms are still level. Drives fine though once I got the shocks set up right.

Check your arms and make sure they are not rubbing on the bulkheads, that could cause the unresponsiveness. Might need to take a razor and shave off a little of the arms. Pretty common with rpm. For the driveshafts you can get the revo extended drive cups to help them fit better. Personally I think the traxxas brand driveshafts are crap, break and bend super easy.


My 3906:
RC solutions body post integrated roll cage
rc solutions post-less shock towers with bump stops
RCS Spring steel skidplates
aluminum bulkheads,chassis braces, servo skid
GA bulkhead braces
custom modified 2 speed transmission that runs the 3908 slipper clutch
brass idler gears
tekin 2050 motor
hw 150a esc
rpm front, true track rear
strc front knuckles
Front/rear spooled diffs
imex rubicon 8" tires on 17mm maximizer beadlocks
dynamite revo cvds
3908 steering linkage that I had to customize the chassis for

and some other good stuff I am forgetting.
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Old 05-01-2015, 10:16 PM
  #17  
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Is there some place you can just get different lengths of the tie rods or maybe a longer style end.. Everything I see is "for" something..
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Old 05-02-2015, 04:50 AM
  #18  
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I pick alot of my stuff up from specific sellers on Ebay. Here's a guy I trust and have purchased a ton of stuff from. These are the longer toe links.
LumiDave
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRAXXAS-3908...item20fa4f346b
TRAXXAS 3908 Brushless E-Maxx Steering Toe-Links Turnbuckles Tie-rods /16.8 3903
US $5.39
$3.99 Standard Shipping
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Old 05-02-2015, 10:30 AM
  #19  
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Thanks, actually ordered several things from him.. Including a set of shocks.. This one only has 4, the guy I got it from said he took the others off because it was too bouncy and handles better with only 4??
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Old 05-02-2015, 10:39 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Dive1Ocean
Thanks, actually ordered several things from him.. Including a set of shocks.. This one only has 4, the guy I got it from said he took the others off because it was too bouncy and handles better with only 4??
4 is better for racing. 8 is better for bashing. Any bouncyness can be fixed by changing springs and oils.
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Old 05-03-2015, 08:41 PM
  #21  
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Do I need the dust boots for the arm ball joints?
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Old 05-03-2015, 08:55 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Dive1Ocean
Do I need the dust boots for the arm ball joints?
I wouldn't bother with them. They dry out, get milky white and crack pretty quick anyway. Take the knuckles apart and clean them once a year over the winter and they'll be fine.
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Old 05-04-2015, 08:57 AM
  #23  
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Thank ya much.. Seems like I spend more time waiting for parts than driving.. lol..
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