Official Traxxas E-Maxx Brushless 39087 Thread
#16
Tech Initiate
My first post. Just got an EMBE for Christmas. I came upon this thread and have been using it as an initial guide for some upgrades. I will be running 4S. I intend to see how the stock axles hold up initially.
For the guys who have upgraded their axles, which brand(s) do you recommend? I have read several differing views and just curious what you guys have to say.
Thanks in advance for your replies and help!
For the guys who have upgraded their axles, which brand(s) do you recommend? I have read several differing views and just curious what you guys have to say.
Thanks in advance for your replies and help!
#17
Tech Regular
My first post. Just got an EMBE for Christmas. I came upon this thread and have been using it as an initial guide for some upgrades. I will be running 4S. I intend to see how the stock axles hold up initially.
For the guys who have upgraded their axles, which brand(s) do you recommend? I have read several differing views and just curious what you guys have to say.
Thanks in advance for your replies and help!
For the guys who have upgraded their axles, which brand(s) do you recommend? I have read several differing views and just curious what you guys have to say.
Thanks in advance for your replies and help!
#18
I have RD Logics cvds on one emaxx and Dynamite on the other. Never had any issues with either. MIP centers. I did have a problem with the Traxxas brand. The pin wore out and broke.
The MIP splined cvds are supposed to be amazing, but they are a little pricier.
The diffs that come with the brushless edition hold up fine to 4s. Probably will need shimming if you plan on running 6s. The best thing you can do for the diffs is replace the inner diff cup with an aluminum cup. They can be bought for less than $20 each, and will eliminate all diff problems. Use thicker fluid too. I run 500k in one truck, 100k in the other.
The MIP splined cvds are supposed to be amazing, but they are a little pricier.
The diffs that come with the brushless edition hold up fine to 4s. Probably will need shimming if you plan on running 6s. The best thing you can do for the diffs is replace the inner diff cup with an aluminum cup. They can be bought for less than $20 each, and will eliminate all diff problems. Use thicker fluid too. I run 500k in one truck, 100k in the other.
#19
Tech Initiate
Cool! Thanks for the help. I also read that some guys are using the axles from the Summit as a replacement. Any thoughts on that?
I'm not planning on doing anything until I see problems with the stockers just trying to plan ahead.
I'm not planning on doing anything until I see problems with the stockers just trying to plan ahead.
#20
Tech Initiate
Is this the differential cup you are talking about?
Evidently I haven't made enough posts to be able to post links but I found a Hot Racing aluminum differential cup.
Is that the piece you are talking about.
Evidently I haven't made enough posts to be able to post links but I found a Hot Racing aluminum differential cup.
Is that the piece you are talking about.
#21
Tech Regular
Ya that's what he is referring too. Hot racing makes good products.
#22
#23
Tech Initiate
Thanks! I will order one. Appreciate all your help!
#24
Tech Initiate
So I have started my tear down and re-build. When i got to the Front differential the outside was covered in oil. Any thoughts? Is there a way to tell if its leaking?
This truck literally has about 30 minutes of mild runtime on it. I am wondering if it could just be excess oil from manufacturing?
Also, I am planning on installing some aluminum bulkheads. Do you know if the HBR differential cup will fit with an aluminum bulkhead? The Bulkheads are from ACNCM.
This truck literally has about 30 minutes of mild runtime on it. I am wondering if it could just be excess oil from manufacturing?
Also, I am planning on installing some aluminum bulkheads. Do you know if the HBR differential cup will fit with an aluminum bulkhead? The Bulkheads are from ACNCM.
#25
Tech Initiate
Just as an FYI...my current "planned" upgrades are
RPM front A Arms
STRC Aluminum front knuckles
RPM True Track Rear A Arms
ACNCM Aluminum Bulkheads
Lunsford Ti hingepins
Aluminum chassis brace
Tbones Racing front and rear bumpers
Gmade XD piggy back shocks
and...a differential upgrade of some kind.
RPM front A Arms
STRC Aluminum front knuckles
RPM True Track Rear A Arms
ACNCM Aluminum Bulkheads
Lunsford Ti hingepins
Aluminum chassis brace
Tbones Racing front and rear bumpers
Gmade XD piggy back shocks
and...a differential upgrade of some kind.
#26
Tech Rookie
Does anyone have a ground up, from scratch, build list to create the ultimate waterproof and durable 6S brushless E-Maxx 39087 you can? A sort of dream build if money were not an issue if you will... Thanks.
#27
Unless you just want to dump a bunch of money in one shot, wait till you break it to fix it.
For tires I want to highly recommend Proline Badlands, great tire for all types of surfaces, Thing about Big Joe's or Trenchers are they have a lot of rotating mass and add weight.
You should look into a set of alloy skids those stock plastic leave a lot to be desired. Also, alloy chassis braces.
When you break the stock bulkheads and shock towers I want to suggest FLM products. You won't be disappointed.
Those diffs are going to end up giving you trouble.... Don't waste your time and money trying to rebuild them time and time again. Go ahead and get the FLM Hybrid bulkheads and a set of Ofna Hyper7 TQ diffs. You won't be disappointed.
Don't waste your money on hardened or titanium pillow balls. through much trial and error I have found the stock Traxxas balls work the best.
If you should decide to go with alloy arms it would be very wise to use Ejector Pins instead of hinge pins.
A lot of people will tell you to upgrade your shocks. Well, I think the stock shocks with the right oil and springs work just fine. But do get some alloy caps. Look at VGR springs and 50W oil is my preference.
MIP CVD's #11103 are one of the best axles on the market.
Traxxas steel center CVD's are OK
I have no idea how much you want to modify your truck.... The above items will give you a good strong truck. There are many other mods you can make, With all different prices and choices you can make. From mild to wild and upgrade prices running just a few hundred into 2 or 3 thousand dollars.
I have been building, bashing, and friendly racing E Maxx's for many years.
#28
Tech Adept
Its not the most expensive build. But it would still cost you a couple of thousand to build. And the electrics are not waterproof.
1717 Motor
XL2 ESC
Magneto Chassis
UE Monoblock
Savox SC1256TG Servo
Alloy servo horn
Centralemaxx Servo Saver
K-Maxx / Wheelman CD Mount
8 Spider Center Diff 52T
Tekno 12T pinion
UE Ti Front center shaft
HPI Rear center shaft
UE Ultralite cases
8 Spider diffs
GA bulks
Ejector hinge pins
Sweet Strobes Braces
HCR titanium skids
RPM skid protectors
UE Knucklehead Towers
Powerstroke Shocks
K-Maxx Spring separators
K-Maxx Spring retainers
Custom made springs
RPM arms
MIP spline CVD's
Tekno Axle carriers.
HPP wheel hexes
Badlands tires on Desperado wheels.
Wing Mount and Wing
Pro-line 650 Body
Pro-line body post screw on caps
More photos here.
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/+...30501670547441
+ YouTube Video | |
More videos here: https://www.youtube.com/user/ausprime/videos
#29
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
Just as an FYI...my current "planned" upgrades are
RPM front A Arms
STRC Aluminum front knuckles
RPM True Track Rear A Arms
ACNCM Aluminum Bulkheads
Lunsford Ti hingepins
Aluminum chassis brace
Tbones Racing front and rear bumpers
Gmade XD piggy back shocks
and...a differential upgrade of some kind.
RPM front A Arms
STRC Aluminum front knuckles
RPM True Track Rear A Arms
ACNCM Aluminum Bulkheads
Lunsford Ti hingepins
Aluminum chassis brace
Tbones Racing front and rear bumpers
Gmade XD piggy back shocks
and...a differential upgrade of some kind.
I don't like aluminum knuckles, metal knuckles on metal pillow balls is no Bueno in my book and lubing the knuckles just holds dirt. Stay plastic knuckles in my opinion. I've never broken a plastic knuckle or had a pillow ball pull out of a stocker but there's always RPM, Tekno or the Traxxas Revo ones with the reinforcement rings in the pillow ball area.
ACNCM bulkheads look nice, FLM are very good too, Great Assembly (GA) makes the toughest stock style bulkheads though. If you're considering a diff upgrade at all though you should have a look at FLM's hybrid bulkheads that accept 1/8 diffs. The FLM hybrids are tough and you can get a diff upgrade to kill 2 birds with one stone.
Hinge pins are a biggie in my book and the first time you try to remove a bent hinge pin from an aluminum bulkhead you'll agree. While running rpm arms I've bent every hinge pin out there, Lunsford, FLM etc. Do yourself a favor and make yourself some out of ejector pins and save yourself the headache.
As for other upgrades, another biggie is skid plates. Titanium is the way to go as it bounces back, aluminum stays bent and the tougher the aluminum skids are, the harder they are to bend back. Since nobody I'm aware of is still making titanium skids finding a set is the hard part.
#30
Tech Master
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