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Official PRO-MT 2WD 1:10 Monster Truck Kit Thread

Official PRO-MT 2WD 1:10 Monster Truck Kit Thread

Old 01-18-2016, 03:39 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by RC Juice
Beautiful build Chuck!! I'm in the middle of painting a fresh lid for mine I'll post pics when it's up.
That motor is going to be a beast in that thing
My quick .02 on greasing axles, I use teflon chain lube (get it a bicycle stores), it goes on almost like water but leaves behind a nice, super slick surface that barely attracts any grease. I had seen that tip on a Savage forum many years ago and it works great.

Here is the one I use:

http://www.whitelightningco.com/prod...nts/clean-ride
Nice! I need to order some of that dry lube. Yeah please post pics of your painted shell when you are finished. I like this truck, so I will be getting a second one next month. I need ideas for paint :-)
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Old 01-19-2016, 09:38 AM
  #32  
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Picked up a Pro Mt a couple weeks ago. Tossed in my electronics (ds1015 servo, mamba max pro, castle 4600 4 pole)...

By far the most fun I've had with a RC. I owned pretty much every offroad rc made and this truck leaves a non stop smile on my face. Well done PROLINE!!!!
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Old 01-19-2016, 10:46 AM
  #33  
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I agree this is one fun truck for sure. I'd like to bring up durability...has anybody broken theirs yet?...well I have :-P
I hope it was only a defective part and not a design flaw..but I snapped the rear axle shaft in two pieces where the wheel hex cross pin goes. Yeah it was a bad landing and a 4-5 foot high jump but still it broke :-/ I ordered a replacement and no big deal costing $12, however I am getting the same feeling I got from my 4x4 slash a few years back. The rear axles would bend in this same spot every time I drove it hard.
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Old 01-19-2016, 01:38 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by flat6
Picked up a Pro Mt a couple weeks ago. Tossed in my electronics (ds1015 servo, mamba max pro, castle 4600 4 pole)...

By far the most fun I've had with a RC. I owned pretty much every offroad rc made and this truck leaves a non stop smile on my face. Well done PROLINE!!!!
... this post is making me want to buy one. Been looking at them since they came out. Ive owned every MT/truck out there... might have to get this one now
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Old 01-19-2016, 03:56 PM
  #35  
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I'll post some pics of the body later today, but I really have to say that painting is not my strong point in RC =/
It took me a while to break something on mine, and only when I was doing full speed runs at the base of a tree and launching it through the air at ridiculous heights. I broke one control arm (not all the way though) and cracked the front arm pivot. Truck was still driveable. Other than that I have stripped some spur gears but that is it, and I seriously beat this thing like it owes me money. I have owned so many MT's over the years, Revos, Savages, T-Maxx's, MT4G3, Rival, XXl's etc. and overall I seriously think this is the best one I
ve had. Nothing gives you the amount of drive-time this thing does, it's 2WD and relatively light so there is just less to break and it never seems to.
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Old 01-19-2016, 05:39 PM
  #36  
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And here she is. First time using Liquid Mask and I definitely learned a few lessons
I tried copying the layout that RCDriver used on their PRO-MT build with my colors.
Attached Thumbnails Official PRO-MT 2WD 1:10 Monster Truck Kit Thread-img_6028.jpg  
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Old 01-20-2016, 06:11 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by RC Juice
And here she is. First time using Liquid Mask and I definitely learned a few lessons
I tried copying the layout that RCDriver used on their PRO-MT build with my colors.
Hey those are my colors, Juice! Lol
Your paint looks really nice!
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Old 01-20-2016, 06:20 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by RC Juice
I'll post some pics of the body later today, but I really have to say that painting is not my strong point in RC =/
It took me a while to break something on mine, and only when I was doing full speed runs at the base of a tree and launching it through the air at ridiculous heights. I broke one control arm (not all the way though) and cracked the front arm pivot. Truck was still driveable. Other than that I have stripped some spur gears but that is it, and I seriously beat this thing like it owes me money. I have owned so many MT's over the years, Revos, Savages, T-Maxx's, MT4G3, Rival, XXl's etc. and overall I seriously think this is the best one I
ve had. Nothing gives you the amount of drive-time this thing does, it's 2WD and relatively light so there is just less to break and it never seems to.
Sounds like I may have had a bad rear axle, since no one else is chiming in. I replaced it, and I hope no more breakage. I wonder if the aluminum hubs I am running are too rigid for bashing and does not give enough flex in the bearing when I wreck. Juice, do u have aluminum or plastic rear hubs?
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Old 01-20-2016, 07:26 AM
  #39  
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Nice looking paint scheme juice!
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Old 01-21-2016, 04:07 PM
  #40  
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Thats an awesome paint job! Its what I was going for as well but with the duratrax lime pearl instead of your yellow. Was thinking either metallic blue but did white and silver like yours for the back - but mine did not turn out even half as nice as yours! I did not paint the rear bed black through - as I like to use plastidip from the outside and the flat color which looks more realistic imo.

I've been toying with the idea of spraying the inside of the body with white plastidip as well - just to protect the paint. For my yeti build, I'm will probably just do plastidip (no paint) from the inside- and applying freqskinz stickers from the outside.

Btw- during your build did you open up the diff? My kit included an extra bottle of diff oil - I called proline and they said you can add it if you want. I'm pretty sure my diffs don't have oil but hoping they at least greased it - at that point I did not feel like disassembling everything - just wanted to get the car outside - and yes it handles like a dream!

I use the white lightning chain lube on my axles as well - works awesome, I even put a little extra on the ends as well. I use it for my 1/8th vehicles as well on the pinion/spur, pillowballs and outdrives/universal joints- its very liquidy before drying so is easy to apply.


Originally Posted by Combat Chuck

I chose Duratrax R/C paint. The yellow is Candy Yellow, backed by Bright White. The paint job turned out just so-so because painting lexan bodies is not my strong point. I did have fun painting it though.

Running videos are soon to come...
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Old 01-23-2016, 09:25 AM
  #41  
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Thank you guys, I kept the camera far enough away to not highlight all the screw-ups. At least this body will look like hell after just one bash session so it's not that big a deal

I have the stock rear hubs on mine, this is one truck where I have not really upgraded anything on it. I did just put on an aluminum steering rack after my buddy's kid broke the stock one crashing it into a truck tire, but other than that it is all stock for now. I'm going nuts building a race Pro-2 buggy and short course truck and I'm sure the upgrades will bleed over to the MT eventually.
I did not open up the diff on mine, I had read about a lot of people finding leaky diffs when they opened the box but mine seemed OK. I figured I'd try it as'is since it was already put together, and for bashing it seems to work fine for me. What weight are you guys putting in there?
I do think hubs are one of the few items worth upgrading to aluminum, but I do wonder if that had anything to do with your axle breakage Chuck. I would thing the arm would still have enough flex to absorb the impacts though?
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Old 01-23-2016, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by RC Juice
And here she is. First time using Liquid Mask and I definitely learned a few lessons
I tried copying the layout that RCDriver used on their PRO-MT build with my colors.
Good job !!!
I did a tutorial in the paint section about mask.
Feel free to post any questions there if you need help.
For paint schemes like that with a lot of straight lines, you are sometimes better off with masking tape + pinstripe tape.
You can achieve the same results with liquid mask but it's just a lot more work and cut
Great way to practice cutting straight lines tho.


I m really debating getting one of these pro MT myself
They seem to be A LOT of fun for the buck .
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Old 01-24-2016, 07:50 AM
  #43  
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Did your guys' kits come with a small bottle of diff oil? I would have thought the same thing that it was pre-filled if I hadn't seen the extra diff oil bottle.

The two mods I'm thinking of doing for now, is silicone gasket around the gear cover - as dirt somehow has made it inside, and finding shock boots for the powerstroke shocks - anyone have any recommendations on boots that fit? I asked proline and they don't produce any. Other than that, planning on replacing with hopups if it breaks!

Originally Posted by RC Juice
Thank you guys, I kept the camera far enough away to not highlight all the screw-ups. At least this body will look like hell after just one bash session so it's not that big a deal

I have the stock rear hubs on mine, this is one truck where I have not really upgraded anything on it. I did just put on an aluminum steering rack after my buddy's kid broke the stock one crashing it into a truck tire, but other than that it is all stock for now. I'm going nuts building a race Pro-2 buggy and short course truck and I'm sure the upgrades will bleed over to the MT eventually.
I did not open up the diff on mine, I had read about a lot of people finding leaky diffs when they opened the box but mine seemed OK. I figured I'd try it as'is since it was already put together, and for bashing it seems to work fine for me. What weight are you guys putting in there?
I do think hubs are one of the few items worth upgrading to aluminum, but I do wonder if that had anything to do with your axle breakage Chuck. I would thing the arm would still have enough flex to absorb the impacts though?
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Old 01-24-2016, 09:04 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by vintage tone
Good job !!!
I did a tutorial in the paint section about mask.
Feel free to post any questions there if you need help.
For paint schemes like that with a lot of straight lines, you are sometimes better off with masking tape + pinstripe tape.
You can achieve the same results with liquid mask but it's just a lot more work and cut
Great way to practice cutting straight lines tho.


I m really debating getting one of these pro MT myself
They seem to be A LOT of fun for the buck .
Yep. I used pinstripe tape on mine. And frog taped the layers. It was time consuming but the results were descent.

Thanks vintage tone for the paint tutorial thread you posted.
Do look into this truck. I find the quality really high and the fun factor is there mainly because it is so simple and a bulletproof layout. Durable and light weight. 4x4 SCT electronics move this 4lb monster truck with ease and makes me smile every time I peg the throttle at any speed. I highly recommend the kit for any experience rc'er especially for bashing in the back yard, which is what I use the kit for. :-)
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Old 01-24-2016, 09:22 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by littlebuddha
Did your guys' kits come with a small bottle of diff oil? I would have thought the same thing that it was pre-filled if I hadn't seen the extra diff oil bottle.

The two mods I'm thinking of doing for now, is silicone gasket around the gear cover - as dirt somehow has made it inside, and finding shock boots for the powerstroke shocks - anyone have any recommendations on boots that fit? I asked proline and they don't produce any. Other than that, planning on replacing with hopups if it breaks!
Yeah, the Pro-MT kit comes with a bottle of 5K diff oil. The instruction manual does not say to add it, and the diff felt to me like it had something in it when new, so I did not add it. Can anyone confirm if it's already filled with 5K oil or packed with grease from the factory? I don't want to disassemble the diff to find out it's filled with the same oil already.

5-10K seems about right for the diff oil for bashing. Do not go too thick in diff oil because I have experienced in racing, a loss of traction and steering if you go too high with 2wd vehicles. The right oil weight for you really needs to be tried and tested on the surface you drive on.
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