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help with beefing up my emaxx

help with beefing up my emaxx

Old 08-12-2014, 05:55 AM
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Default help with beefing up my emaxx

I have a brushed emaxx converted with a mamba monster 2 esc wired for series connection with some lipos and a cc 2200kv brushless. Now obviously im snapping cvd's and breaking servos and such so i need upgrades! I just ordered some all metal geared servos with a ton of torque, but i need help finding the best driveshafts...for the price, (since i just bought a motor, esc, 4 lipos, and a 4 way charger haha) and other "must haves" for serious bashing.

I looked into several different ones but cant decide which to use and what will fit. I know some people have had problems with not everything lining up or wrong sized fittings.

links would be appreciated if able to.

THANKS for help!!!
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Old 08-12-2014, 06:22 AM
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What model of Emaxx do you have exactly? There were 2 versions of brushed Emaxx, the black chassis 3906 and the newer grey chassis 3905. The 3905 has a basically bulletproof transmission and different knuckles which take different axles. Btw the plastic axles and center driveshafts aren't called cvd's. Technically they are universals but people generally refer to them as plastic sliders.

MIP makes what is probably the strongest cvd's for both versions of the Maxx. Traxxas has their own line of cvd's for the newer Maxx which I ran for awhile and had no issues with.

I recommend going through your diffs to make sure they aren't worn out and to properly shim them. Play between the ring gear and pinion can cause failure of either or both. The best thing to do is get rid of the Teflon washer on the pinion as it will wear and crush changing the mesh. Replace it with metal shims, I believe the size is 8x6x.2mm that you want. Assemble the diff in the outer case with axles or cvd cups on the outputs and the pinion. Pull out on the pinion and rotate the pinion back and forth while holding the outputs to check for play in the pinion. Add shims to adjust pinion depth until there is no play around the entire ring gear and the assembly spins smoothly. With that set try pushing the pinion in, if the pinion can be moved in and out place shims behind the drive cup on the pinion until it can't be moved in and out. Don't put too many as it can cause binding. It's time consuming but your diffs are now as strong as they can be.

Chassis wise I feel the Maxx really needs aluminum bulkheads, RPM arms and either RPM or aluminum skid plates. These can be replaced as you break stuff because t all depends on how hard you drive. After upgrading to aluminum bulks I recommend upgrading the hinge pins as bent pins are a pain to remove from aluminum bulks. FLM seem to be the strongest premade, I've bent Lunsford titanium fairly easily. The strongest are made from ejector pins that you cut down yourself. Google Tmaxx ejector pins if interested in this at all.
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Old 08-12-2014, 07:03 AM
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Ive been the proud owner of a Maxx for a few years now. Actually since getting into the hobby about 4-5 years ago Ive went through probably 100 kits. Maybe more. [U]The E Maxx is the only kit Ive kept longer than a year. I tend to sell/trade them within a few months for something different. But Ive had my E Maxx for almost 3 years now Im guessing. I have a 3905 model. Ive been running brushless in it since day one. I run 4s aswell and only had to replace the stock outer CVDs about once a year. The center two never broke. They showed signs of stress and stretching. But they lasted until I upgraded to TRX steel center CVDs. Still running stock CVDs and replacing them once in ahwile. Id suggest the TRX steel CVDs. Ive ran them on a E Revo BE and they held up fine. I havent read any bad reports on them. I would suggest starting to RPM your truck. They didnt have the RPM bulks when I was spending cash on my Maxx, but the RPM bulk braces seemed to do the job. Then the towers and body mounts next. Two of the weakest spots on the truck. The stock skids that protrude out past the bumper are easily broken. I suggest T Bone Racing skids or HIGH QUALITY aluminum ones. I bought Duratrax alum skids for $40 and I was takin them off and bending em back out all the time. Pick up FLM or something good. The T Bone seems to offer the best durabilty for the cost. But if you have any thoughts, concerns or questions PM me and Ill gladly offer some insight if I can
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Old 08-13-2014, 08:40 AM
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thanks for all the info guys! really helpful!
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